edrach

Welcome to the Board and congrats on the wagon. You'll be able to find a left blinker assembly at Pick n Pull in Tacoma (closest yard to you). If they don't have one today, they'll get one in soon. Try the check inventory link at www.picknpull.com/.

If I remember correctly, last time I bought my NGK's they were $1.75 each; that's $7 for all four without the hassle of a rebate:clap:. Also, in 12 years and 10 Subarus in our family, I have never had an NGK plug fail. BKR6E11 plug is the correct one for the EJ22 engine (and most of the older EA engines if I remember correctly). R stands for a resistor plug; 6 is the heat range; and the 11 indicates they come pre-gapped. Not sure what the other letters indicate. Also, my recollection is the number is a BKR6ES11; but both versions are appropriate for your car.

This is an ad for the correct (Non 390) rims. Portland is not too far away. I could bring them back for you next time I'm in Portland on business.http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/pts/2700864093.html

Tires can be had from a Michelin dealer on special order. Price is high enough that it's worth it to get other rims and tires instead.

At Your Service Auto Repair in Snohomish. One man shop with 25+ years of Subaru experience. 360-563-2321. Excellent work and very low hourly rate.

The iPikes are uni-directional also. I have a set of 205/55-16s on my Impreza and I love them. I never found a need for studs, so they are studless. Only snow tire that might be better are the Hakkipollitta tires and they are now priced out of my range.

If you have a pick n pull yard in your area, try finding a used alternator there. Much cheaper than new (around $20 total). Install it in place of the one that smoked. If that seems to work, you can either keep it or replace it with a new/rebuilt unit. Pick n Pull around here allows a 30 day return period during which you can replace it with another or get credit (sadly, no cash refunds) for it. www.picknpull.com/

Unplug the alternator and if it doesn't smoke then, replace it. Hopefully the ECU isn't fried.

205/55/16 works on my '97 Impreza with WRX rims (6-1/2" width). 205/55/16 with RS rims (7" width) works but is very tight on the rear; I wound up adding a 5mm shim to be safe.

I knew there had to be a reason that they would come out so easily. Smart move.

You're fortunate that the previous owner likely installed stainless steel bolts as well as using neverseeze to keep them from rusting in place.

The bolt will come out. First, find a quality rust penetrant. I'm partial to Yield since I know it works. Kroil is 2nd best. PB Blaster isn't much better than WD-40 (next to worthless for this). This also requires patience. Soak the bolt area on the front and backside with rust penetrant four or five times. Let the penetrant soak in for at least 10 minutes before the next application. Sometimes it's best to wait 1/2 hour between soaks. Next, you'll find that the bolt used is usually 1/2 inch or more too long for the job. The far end of the bolt extends out the back of the fender area where it's bolted and is subject to all the rain, salt and stuff for the last 100K miles or more and is rusty. With the rust, the thread diameter is larger than the nut portion and that's why it often breaks off when someone tries to remove it with brute force and no rust penetrant. The trick here is to let it soak for a while with the rust pentrant, then with a pair of visegrips grab the front portion of the bolt and wiggle it back and forth to break loose the rusted portion inside the nut portion. Don't rush it since this still needs some patience and maybe more rust penetrant. Once the threaded portion has broken the rust and you can see the broken end turning when you wiggle the visegrip tool, then continue to turn the broken bolt clockwise (just like it would go with a new bolt when you're installing your new shocks). Keep turning in that direction until the bolt section comes out the other side. Remember, you're screwing the broken piece IN not OUT. I've done a number of these this way when I broke off the bolt because I was too impatient to let the penetrant do its job. Worst comes to worst, you can always drill out the broken piece and re-tap the hole using the same size tap as the original bolt. The nut portion is hardened steel and will accept the tap as soon as the threads find their way. Yield is made by ChemSearch in Texas. If I remember correctly GD had posted a "group buy" opportunity a short time ago. Maybe he still has a can or two to sell. Don't expect it to sell for the same price as a similar sized can of WD-40. We buy the Yield by the box of 12 from ChemSearch where I work for around $16/can. It's pricey but it does the job better than anything else I've ever found.

I'm looking for thoughts on the 5 lug conversion for my Brat. I thought I'd find a write-up here, but didn't find anything in the two pages of threads. Before I look for older threads, does anyone know of a decent write-up for this and the best approach to matching the EJ axles to the Brat?

Dec. 4th; even better for me.

Shhh. You'll make the kiddies jealous.

I'm not sure, but AZ to CO is west to east, but that also mostly UPHILL when all is said and done.

Just to add some perspective here. Smart Service is an excellent shop but the reality is they are close to dealer costs on many service issues. Many times "you get what you pay for." I've dealt with them in the past and they have always been above board, do excellent work, and back up their work. I don't go there anymore ONLY because I've found a less expensive alternative that serves my needs very well for the work I can't do for myself. They would be my choice if cost was not a consideration and I would certainly use Smart rather than ANY dealer regardless of cost. There are many good independent Subaru shops in the Seattle area and AWD is one of them. Search around and you'll find a shop to suit your needs and your pocketbook here on the USMB. You'll also find which shops to avoid like the plague. Ask for a reference about a given shop and I'm sure there are many here on the USMB that can give you feedback.

I use an independent mechanic in Snohomish. He's 25+ years experienced on Subarus (was with University Subaru until the dealer dropped Subaru). He started his own business a few years ago and he is excellent as well as reasonably priced. Two years ago he did a complete rebuild on my Impreza (rings, heads, valves, re-seal and all the timing belt components) for $1700. I've put 60K miles on the car since then and everything is still running strong at 220K miles on the car. Drop me a PM and I can give you his phone number. Shop name is At Your Service Autocare.

If the bad socket is on the passenger side, I have the tail-light base with harness but without the lens. That should solve the funky socket problem. I could let it go for $5 plus the cost of mailing it out to you. Drop me a PM if you'd like that.

Personally, I've had great success with the Redline 75W90NS. I don't think you could go wrong with either gearoil.

Soak the exhaust nuts with Yield rust penetrant (I can lend you mine if you don't have any) overnight for a few days. That should make the nuts removeable without too much trouble. As to the emissions testing issue, you have an '86. In WA state, emissions testing is not required if the car is 25 years or older. Next year you should be okay. You'd have to ask if an emissions test is required if you transfer the title to WA next year.

I don't think that far ahead, but I'm in.

I think Paul posted some on his website. Also, If I remember correctly, subiegal posted some on hers. I'll try to look for the links tonight when I have more time. Here's one link: http://s1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc491/PrimitiveSchool/ Here's a link to the DI thread by subiegal. I think that's you and Paul in my old Impreza. Somehow I can't get the subiegal FB link to work for me. http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22932&page=3

Where were you when I was trying to get a title for my title-less California Brat? Drop me a phone number by PM and maybe we can talk. I have a legitimate bill of sale and wouldn't mind taking the car to the WA State Police to have an incoming from out of state car with a title in hand.

Just a thought, are you sure the front axle nuts are properly tightened? I believe the torque setting is 140 ft-lbs. If the splines in the hub are worn or the nut is too loose and the splines are not engaged, one axle will spin without moving the wheel.