edrach

I finally found the remnants of the old kit that I bought to replace the brittle hoses on a EA82T. Find out the information at www.hosetechniques.com and get your car spiffied up for WCSS7.

Nah, Ken, it's the car!

Sounds like a deal. Thanks. I'll call first.

You can ask the people here (by email if you like): http://www.whiteline.com.au/default.asp?page=/yourcar.htm With luck, I'll be installing my rear swaybar this weekend.

Matt, re-reading your post again and #3 and #4 are most distressing as Kelly mentioned. Is there any possibility that the car might be in 4WD mode and you don't realize it? Certainly not anything I've heard of before, but #4 started me thinking. The other thought I have doesn't quite fit the symtoms, but a bad inner joint on a front axle can masquerade as quite a number of things.....and be so bad as to make me believe the transmission was about to fall out; but with a bad DOJ the vibration ceases suddenly on trailing throttle and returns when you accelerate again. Very mysterious. Good luck with this....swapping trannys is such a pain.

I'll echo northguy on that. SpeedyGlass in Bothell charged me $150 installed with tax included for a windshield on an '87 Turbo wagon a few years back. Hit the yellow pages and call a few shops and get a quote; it's a very competitive business and you can't go wrong with shopping around.

I'm going crazy paging though the samples. Anyone up to putting all the possible logos on one or two pages? Make it a poll that's easier to select and view.

Your best bet is to insist that they replace the vehicle with one of similar condition; that's the kicker to the "blue book scam." Glad to hear you're okay. Best of luck.

The late EJ22 engines (sometime in '97) became interference engines.

On the Board these should go for $75 to $100 for the set of four plus shipping. No telling what you'll get on ebay (or the Board for that matter). Please post the listing on the Board since I'd like to see what they go for. Thanks.

You should be fine for testing purposes. Bring a lug wrench and re-check them along the way if you're nervous about it.

Matt, I was one of the first to do the swap with Jerry's kit (as a matter of fact we did it at his place). Driving home I noticed more vibration than with the 4 speed version. After eliminating all the likely culprits, the conclusion was I had put in a bad tranny (from PAP). I replaced the tranny after about 3 months....it was my tranny that was bad. The replacement worked much better. Hopefully you have better luck than I. With the new tranny in place, I made two more modifications that helps "gild the lily" as it were. I ultimately installed a one piece drive shaft because the center bearing mounting on the Brat's chassis wasn't the most secure looking piece of sheet metal in the car. The new driveshaft was noticeably better than the two piece driveshaft. Lastly, there was a resonance that occurred right around 2800 rpm (cruising speed as it were, so it was quite annoying). Since the 5 speed tranny has a slightly different location for the support of the exhaust system near its center, I just left it hanging without support there. This created a long piece of exhaust pipe supported at the front at the end of the y-pipe and in the rear by the muffler hanger. This resonated quite badly; as a matter of fact my wife hated riding in the car at highway speeds since it really was too loud for her. After a few months of that I finally fabbed a piece so I could support the exhaust in the center firmly; that doubled the resonant frequency so it became much quieter during highway driving. I hope this helps. When the 5 speed conversion works properly, it is so much nicer than the original. It should certainly not be worse.

I've had very good luck with CV axles of Ocala; best price for seemingly best quality re-man. I have had very bad luck with re-mans from a company called ARI. Best bang for the buck has been "judiciously selected" axles pulled from cars at Pull a Part.

You might check out www.1stsubaruparts.com; check the website and you'll be surprised at the cost for axles. Not sure if they are new or re-manned since the site doesn't specify which. A quick 'phonecall to Jason (800# ) in parts should answer that question.

Another plug for www.cvaxles.com; they have both re-manned and new.

www.cvaxles.com; they are in Ocala, FL; tell them the USMB sent you. Older axles go for $55 each plus rebuildable core; not sure of the price for Legacy. Ask for Kevin.

Go back to the parts store; they owe you the correct axle as well as a new roll pin. Count the splines this time to make sure. It's possible the rebuilder mis-labled the box or used a turbo DOJ by accident. Good luck.

I would just get another lock from PAP if you can find one with a key (or you can get the keycode off the door lock on the donor car). A little tricky to get off (bring a portable drill so you can remove the "theftproof" screws) but no big deal; practice on another car so you can avoid destroying the lock that you want. This is quite a common problem with the older subes; I just paid $100+ to replace the lock cylinder in mine and have it re-keyed to match my old key.

Four 5-1/2x13 enkies with Silverstone rally tires.

Check your PMs; I'm in.

Yours works too now. Thanks. Too cool.

Unfortunately comes up as a red "X" on my computer. Here's mine; not as cool as yours but I like it.....

All the stations vacuum check the gas cap; I've run three cars through inspection in the last 6 months and all had the gas caps checked.

That may change if the legislature adopts the CA style emissions.

You will be required to get an emissions test every odd numbered year that you renew the registration (since yours is an odd numbered year of manufacture). If you car is 24 years or older, then you are exempt from getting an emissions test. When your car comes up for renewal this year you'll have to go through emissions. I don't know what the story is with the proposed CA style emissions standards.