edrach

Thanks.

I'm looking to complete the set; anyone have a fourth or know where I can get one?

I'm pretty sure that this GL had the standard 4x140 hubs. I'll verify that tomorrow when I try to mount one of the wheels on my Brat. Tried to find the 4th wheel; I called the previous owner (found a torn up For Sale sign on the floor and put it back together and got his 'phone #), and he told me he had bought the car at auction and it came with the spare steelie rim. Too bad, a dead end locating a wheel.

Picked up the third wheel today. Managed to read the lettering on this wheel better. The wheel size is 5.5JJ-H2ET. Now if I can find the previous owner and track down the last wheel I'll be a happy camper.

No, I don't work there. And I'm not really there that often. I just keep my eyes open and try to anticipate what goes into the yard so I can be there to get what I'm looking for. Sometimes I get it, sometimes I miss out. In the last month I've missed out on a couple sets of Pug wheels, two LSDs, two sets of rear disks, a 97K d/r tranny, and four or 5 webers. It just sounds like I find a lot of stuff since I re-sell a fair amount to keep up with my Subaru addiction.

Remove the rails/tracks from an EA81 seat and mount that in the car. Put your new seat on the rail and tack weld it in place (you'll probably need to weld braces or a wider rail to the original set first). Then mount your new seats on top of that and tack weld in place. Remove the entire seat/rails and final weld everything in place and add re-inforcements as needed.

Good point.

One had the 4x14" spare mounted; the last wheel I couldn't get off since it was attached with 21mm acorn nuts and needed a thinwall socket to clear the recessed hole. I'm going back today to grab the third wheel if it's still there.

I found one wheel attached with lugnuts, one with 19mm acorn nuts, and one with 21mm acorn nuts which require a thinwall socket that I didn't have yesterday. I'll go back today and grab the third wheel if it's still there.

Make sure the outside of the radiator isn't blocked along with the A/C evaportator. Does the car overheat when you're stopped at idle? Does it run hotter when cruising and get hotter the faster you drive? If stopped and it overheats, check the fan and temp switch on the radiator. If it runs hotter the faster you go, it's likely time to change the radiator.

Worked on the older '80's decade, but you had to change the oil pressure sender to make the guage work.

I take it it's not what I found today.

I don't get to Tacoma much, Alan. This morning was too early; this was the next to last car they put out today.

I said just about the same thing. They were hard to get off too. I actually broke my 19mm impact socket on one of the lugs. At least it was a pair. Now I just need to find another pair somewhere.

They certainly seem to be rare, but the condition of these wheels is pretty shabby.

I picked up two of these today at Pull a Part. A 14" 4x140 bolt pattern. I've never seen on of these before and it isn't shown on the wheels page (I'll send you the photo tonight Mick). Anyone have any idea what they are. Made in Japan by BMB Technical Research. It's shame I couldn't get a full set. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=4783&sort=1&cat=598&page=1

I'm with Roobaflu....large side cutters, and a screw-driver to use as a fulcrum. Pops those puppies right out. I was wondering who beat me to the free tires. I was looking for a set of free wheels.

.05" is almost 1/16" and I would consider that too much; a good bushing will not wiggle at all. I know there's no real spec but this is a personal opinion.

This info should go right into the USMB Repair Manual.

I'm still totally confused about classes this year. I think the first event will be interesting because of confusion over classes. If I remember correctly, Jason posted last year that Kuhmo actually made a rally tire. It might be a better investment than just a snow tire.

Speaking of new rules, they are posted elsewhere (http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=31086), but you should try to read them. I'm not quite sure I understand them. But there is also a recent comment from Scott that I pass along for those that are interested: I'm posting this so you all (maybe it's just Ed? LOL! ) can review and give me your opinions on things... As most of you know, the SCCA has Nationally and Officially completed its separation from Stage Rally and has shifted its focus in the Rally Department almost exclusively onto Rally Cross. The first thing they did was to establish a new set of RULES to govern their new concept and ideas about where they hope to take Rally Cross in this Country. Those rules have been met with mixed results and very gretly from Region to Region, Division to Division and even Nationally. Yet with the future and specific details of these new Rules still in some state of flux, our local events are upon us and the "show must go on". I have been charged with the task of creating and running NORPAC's first ever Divisional Championship Title Event. Just exactly HOW we do this has been a monumental effort in mixing the old with the new and bridging some of the gaps in the Divisional handling of Rally Cross rules. Take into consideration also the vast differences in the racing conditions and locations, it's pretty much impossible to build a "fair and balanced" system by which to compare, measure and award points to a Divisional Champion in whatever classes we can all agree on. So.... here's the plan. For better or worse. Each Division in NORPAC, that means Alaska, Washington, Oregon, W. Montana, Idaho, NW Nevada and N. California down to San Fransico... will run their Regional Events UNCHANGED from however they were and are running their events. People interested in competing for the DIVISIONAL Title MUST compete in the Regional Title as each of these Regional Championships will count as Qualifiers to the Divisional Championship event. After a set percentage of events, Class winners will be determined in whatever structure that region runs. Those Podium finishers, 1st through 3rd, will then be INVITED to participate in the Divisional Championship. That even will be help in or around October, possibly early November in Brooks, Oregon. Chosen because of it's mathematically central location to the whole of NORPAC. That event will be the culmination of the Series and will determine the Class Winners for the NORPAC Division. Now... the Class. The National Rules state that the Divisonal and National Titles are to follow the NEW rules. So, even if you won Group 2 Title in your Region, you may NOT take home a Group 2 Title for Division... you might actually take home the "Rally Street 2WD" Title instead. It is my intention to "overlay" the two structures also so that if you use the old classes, you can still find your place and earn your title as well. It's a compromise, I know, but the ONLY way to bring continutiy to the whole of NORPAC and create a Nationally Leading program and bring success to our Division. Now... NEXT year, things may be COMPLETELY different. It largely depends on the success that we and others show the Nation with our programs. If you feel strongly about a certain rule or procedure, demonstrating that benefit is the BEST way to get your message across at this point and help shape the future of Rally Cross. I can be reached at dkov@pacifier.com or at 360-518-3198 or HERE on this forum or at RallyCross@oregonrally.com for comments, concerns, thoughts or discussion. I strongly urge each and every one of you that read this note to pass it along to as many people as you cant. Get to your Rally Cross Directors and let them know about this, how you feel and that they should provide feedback as well. Thanks for your time and consideration. Scott Kovalik NORPAC SCCA Rally Cross Steward --------------------------------------------

Sexist has little to do with it, I had a similar argument with a tow operator.....and this guy was not 3 months on the job. I had requested a flat bed tow truck with triple AAA; guy showed up with a hook. He insisted that it was okay; I insisted it was not. His last comment was "his way or the highway." I suggested he take the highway and I called AAA again to request another tow company. As it turned out, the first guy's company tried to charge AAA for the tow; AAA tried to bill it to me also until I showed them the paperwork for two tows on the same day on the same car. Eventually, AAA refused to pay for the non-tow and I filed a complaint against the first tow operator. Bottem line was I wanted the car towed 45 miles one way and they wanted to keep their flat bed local where it could do four tows in the time it would take to do mine.

Send your disty or another to http://www.philbingroup.com/fhhistory.htm and have them rebuild it. They are quite reasonable in cost and would easily get rid of the bushing wear.

Generally people report what's wrong and very seldom report what is right. Often leads to a skewed viewpoint. Good news, especially repetitive good news can be quite boring.

I love my '91 Legacy wagon also. Bought it with 98K on the odometer 20 months ago and I have 142K on it now. Manual transmission has gotten quieter with age and car cruises effortlessly on the highway at whatever speed I wish to go. Other than adding my second set of sparkplugs recently and doing regular oil changes I have only needed minor checkups twice. Just bought a '97 Impreza wagon with 112K on it for my wife and it looks like it's going to be as much fun as the Legacy. I don't see any reason I shouldn't get 300K plus out of both of them (I sold my '86 GL wagon with 255K and after a re-seal and a used carb it was back on the road as someone else's daily driver).