edrach

Fry's actually closes! Amazing.

Great day at PAP today. I snagged the entire front suspension off an '84 along with the hubs and axles. I wanted the pieces to upgrade my Brat with new bushings; the rest was just gravy and worth the $30 price. Finally got to meet northwet; anyone who can lift a 4EAT out of the wheelbarrow by himself has my ultimate respect. He was still there ogling an SPFI engine when I left him.

My Brat's redline starts at 5500 and goes solid red at 6000; if I rember correctly, the EA82 wagon that I used to drive redlined at 6000 also, but I could never get it to go that far except in first. I prefer the EA81 primarily since it's more reliable and doesn't require timing belts at all. It's definitely the more reliable engine of the two and more favored by those using it for small homebuilt aircraft.

Yep, I5 to the Steele St. exit; left at the traffic light while exiting; right at the next traffic light; left into PAP (used to be Ferril's Auto Wrecking).

Linda, I can only speak for myself and I have the advantage of doing my own work (mostly minor stuff) and having two outstanding independent Subaru shops within a 30 minute drive as well as some very competent wrenches to help me out when needed. That being said, I have a '91 Legacy wagon which I bought with 98K on it and I now have 140K on it and plan on keeping it to 300K or more. I just bought a '97 Impreza for my wife with 113K (the car, not the wife:lol: ) and plan on keeping it for as long as we can. The 2.2L engine in my cars (and yours) is among the most reliable and long lasting engines out there. Surprising for a valve to drop into the engine; are you sure it wasn't a broken timing belt? That would stop the engine instantly also and is not an unusual problem since the belt is normally changed at regular intervals. Considering the cost of a new car you can go with a lot of repairs before the new car is an advantage. My considered opinion is find a quality mechanic that you can trust and you should get lots of good service out of your car.

Unfortunately, Everett is closing Tuesday. Smokey Point isn't open yet and really to too far to go to see what's there.

I searched through the old posts and didn't quite find what I was looking for. The old gen cars had all the speakers tied to a common ground and the new stereo decks require all speakers to be isolated from each other requiring that you rewire the speakers to get things to work properly. Is this true on the new gen cars....specifically my '97 Impreza. I'm planning on installing an aftermarket stereo and want to know whether to plan an hour for the job or an afternoon. Thanks in advance for information on this.

Keith, please check out my last post on this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27924

It happens Mike. No hard feelings. Good to see you on the Board again. I hope all is well. I don't know why everyone thinks that I manage to snag all the LSDs out there. I know that I've missed out more often than I've hit. Patience and a little luck and timing is all that's necessary.

Keith, I came across this while searching for info on adding a CD player to my '97 Impreza. If I read between the lines, the new gen cars are not all speakers wired with a common ground (as are the old gen cars) so all I need to do is wire up the stereo to the existing wiring and I should be good to go. I'm just trying to verify that fact. I didn't buy my stereo from crutchfield so I feel guilty calling them for information. Say hello to your dad for me. ---ed---

We're still looking for the guy who grabbed it. Either not on the Board or very shy.

Title says it all. Check out the article and vote for subiegal. You can tell from the photos which entries are real and which are just "fluff." For you non-locals, it's Jamie Thomas. http://hotrod.com/racers/ http://hotrod.com/racers/113_0504_jamie/index.html http://hotrod.com/racers/113_0504_jamie_02_z.jpg

Excellent job just the way it is. Thanks for doing it.

That's exactly what happens. The round part of the stub axle is pulled tight against the inner bearing seal and whatever else it seats on. Dirt, oil, grease who knows what is in the way and as you drive on it that goes away and suddenly the bearings start to growl and you check the nut and find it's less than finger tight and the cotter is still in place. I've learned to clean the mating surfaces carefully and I usually torque the nut to more than the 145 ft-lbs. There's something else involved here with the cone washer and the spring washer that sits just under the castle nut but I haven't figured out what that mechanism is as yet.

That's fine by me. If you like, I can edit it accordingly and let you re-post it. It wouldn't be a problem. ---ed---

Yea, you're right. When I wrote this it was a sort of "stream of consciousness" type thing. Sorry, I was on a roll and couldn't stop.

You might find the information you want here: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/

Harpua was able to save this from the old ezboard and baccaruda was able to find when I couldn't; thank you both. I'm reposting it here with just a minor change. If this isn't in the archives, it should be: Remove the cotter pin in the axle nut while the car is still on the ground and "break" the nut loose with the 36mm socket and a long breaker bar. Remove the wheel after jacking the car up (wheel chocks and jackstands are VERY important here). Knock out the pin on the DOJ with a drift-tool from the UNBEVELED hole and remove the pivot bolt from the lower arm. I don't remove the sway bar mount (never had to). Pull the DOJ away from the transmission; it should move freely now but won't quite come off. Tug on the wheel hub and pull on the DOJ and often it will pop off the stub axle. If not, loosen the nuts at the top of the strut tower a bit (don't take them off!) and/or pry the lower pivot arm away from its support with a crowbar or large screwdriver. This should allow you to get the DOJ off the stub axle. Now remove the castle nut, and both washers (tapping the hub smartly with a small hammer will help get the spring washer out). Now the trick is to get the spindle out of the hub. Either get a large gear puller (6 or 7 inch version) or a sledge hammer and a block of wood. You can push the spindle out with the gear puller or smack the spindle with the sledge (MAKE SURE THE BLOCK OF WOOD IS THERE to prevent damaging the threads--hard to get your core charge back if the threads are bunged). You might need to use your drift and a smaller sledge and pound the spindle out the last inch or so via the small hole in the end. Now carefully remove the axle from the car. Installation is the reverse of removal. Feed the spindle into the hub first; once you get the nut started on the spindle you can use two screwdrivers to pry the spindle out of the hub. I have a number of large washers that I use for spacers to help that along. In really difficult cases I remove the four bolts holding the outer portion of the hub and put the hub aside to give me more purchase on the end of the spindle. Once you have the spindle through the hub reinstall the washers and castle nut and tighten (not completely yet). Now re-install the DOJ (line up the splines first and note that the splines only line up one way--one hole has a tooth in the center and the other has a groove in the center). Tugging on the hub you should be able to slide the DOJ back onto the stub axle again. Line up the holes and knock the spring pin back into the BEVELLED hole. Put the pivot bolt back into the lower arm and install the nut and bring it in but DO NOT TIGHTEN yet. Minor change added here: The bolt on the lower arm should be tightened AFTER you drop the car back onto the ground to avoid twisting/damaging the bushing. Tighten the nuts at the top of the strut, replace the wheel and drop the car back on the ground and tighten the castle nut to 145 ft-lbs of torque (or more--more is better and won't hurt anything). Torque the wheel lugs to 75 ft-lbs replace the cotter pin in the castle nut and you're done. Retorque the lugnuts after 300 miles again and check the castle nut for tightness (yes they can loosen up--I'll explain the mystery of that some other time if you ask nicely). Start to finish takes less than 60 minutes unless you run into a snag. __________________

More enlightenment from Scott: Message: 2 > Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2005 13:03:05 -0800 > From: "John McKean" <john@netgenracing.com> >Subject: Re: Digest Number 1396 > >If as you say SCCA is re-classifying the rules to better fit within the >structure of circuit rally than wouldn't be prudent for our region to >adopt the new rules at the start of the year. It seems to me that this >would eliminate confusion regarding the divisional competition. I have >already stated that I LIKE the new classifications. Most of us will >resist change when possible. And in this case the SCCA has enabled this >resistance by making the rule change optional at the regional level. > John, As some level that makes sense, on others it does not. It's not just Oregon Region or even one or two Regions.... the Country seems pretty split over the new structure. Even now, as the series has started, the classes are not even finalized. It is more a reality of running "with the Devil you know" in many organizer's minds. Here's the other hand... There are probably very few, perhaps no, people that would say that Solo has the appropriate amount of classes. There are even fewer people that believe that this is the direction that Rally Cross should take. Even in our own Region, we have made it a policy to keep as FEW classes as possible to engage in better competition and less "micro" management. I have to scoff when people say that Solo isn't where Rally Cross will go... We have already DOUBLED the amount of classes. And when you start to think about the folks that have an old beater just for Rally Crossing, that maybe they gutted, seated and caged, you begin to realize the disparity of tossing something into prepared just because it cosmetically fits. If you really boil down the structure, it creates a Money Cannon mentality. EXPENSIVE cars become competitive cars. "Fun" cars never will be. Ask yourself this... how would Stage Rally fair with 12 classes and the creation of rules that allow for virtually unlimited modifications in the more basic classes? These are all very real questions that are being asked and addressed currently. I'm sure that, in the end, we will have answers but as I started off saying... the season is under way. There are alot of folks that don't want to keep changing the classes and rules AS WE GO. IF it comes to that. Besides, it's alot easier (I use the term loosely) to expend the club competitors into 12 classes than restrict them once liberties are taken, back into 5. So to answer more in line with your point... yes it WOULD be, but at this point... it will be the start of 2006, not 2005. If... I say IF these new rules are even the ones we'll be using then. Believe it or not, there is still a chance that we'll go BACK to Club Rules. Wouldn't THAT be a pisser? LOL!!! And as for Circuit Rally... just about everyone is standing back waiting for everyone else to do one and then we'll see how it all functions. I mean... who's going to Circuit Rally a brand new Subaru STi? Anyone? Anyone? Bueller? Just in case... Circuit Rally is "combat racing" (note - different than Derby or Snake Racing).... six cars on the track at a time, battling for survival to the finish COOR style. SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY!!! Anyway, come and Rally Cross... have some fun... Worry about the Rules when they are "official" and we'll go from there. Scott -------

I-5 north to I-405N (also know as Mukilteo Expressway), exit onto 99N in about 3 miles. PAP is about 3 miles north on the west side of the highway (1/4 mile past Airport Rd. traffic light). If you're coming up, give a holler and maybe stop and rest on your way home.

Come by my place and I soak it with Yield.

9 to 5.

Fact of life; you might as well get used to it. Another board member found an LSD on an RX and told the guy he'd be back on the weekend with the cash ($100). When he got there it had been crushed. The idiot couldn't wait another 4 days to crush the car. He didn't have the smarts to pull the diff and put it on the shelf either. They don't run junkyards because they're geniuses. Only one smart JY owner I ever met...Stucker's on Staten Island in NY. First one to ever open a JY with only foreign cars; he had a sharp mind and memory like a steel trap.

So you're the one who got that tranny. Broke my heart since I had to wait for the weekend to pull it. Glad it went to someone worthwhile.

It would also help to use a little "never seeze" grease on the stub axles before sliding on the DOJ; it'll prevent rust in the future which will make it hard to remove the axle next time. Also, note the champered hole on the axle and make sure it matches the champered hole on the stub axle. If you install the DOJ 180 degrees out, the roll pin won't go in because the holes will not line up. Also, knock out the roll pin from the non-champered side; and re-install the pin (preferably a new one altho I've never used new without problems) only from the champered side. I think if you check the repair manual section there's a write up for doing the 4WD drive axles; same procedure works for the 2WD version. Good luck with the install.