edrach

Dan, I'll defer to the previous thread. Hopefully that'll work out for you. ---Ed---

If you don't mind outside parking I can ask a neighbor. He might want a small fee for it, I don't know.

Best shop in your area is Smart Service in Shoreline (just off I-5). Carter is probably the best dealer but I suspect Smart Service could do some--or all--of the warranty required work; check with them first. http://www.smart-service.com/ for all the information you need.

Zap, drop me a PM with your 'phone #; I tried to call but you have a new number.

Also, there's a sedan at Everett in pretty decent shape also.

Too late; I've got the rad and someone else was there and grabbed the front passenger door. Bumper is loose but still there as well as the fender; he didn't have time to get that. Sorry Matt.

Both Everett and Lynnwood yards have a Legacy that arrived within the last few days. I snagged a set of decent headlights and what appears to be a brand new radiator. The engine's valve covers were shiny clean and the timing cover had 147K written on it so I suspect the engine is a replacement; and judging from the condition of the radiator and heads some decent repair work had been done recently. Body is clean and it's the metallic blue color. Some ding-a-ling pulled the sparkplugs so if you're interested in the engine get in there soon (it's at Lynnwood). By the way, the price of the composite headlamps has gone up since they now charge extra for the housing assembly that the headlamps are mounted in. So far they're not charging for the bulbs themselves.

The Optima battery and others can be had for the best price from the Interstate warehouse in Everett. It's off of 128th about 4 miles from the Everett PAP.

Old cars are like old people; things start to go intermittently! But lots of TLC helps in both cases.

Warren is a gem. He's saved me over $1000 in un-necessary costs over the last 10 years and we never had to waiver the car. When he was done, it passed.

You would have had to spend over $150 to get the waiver.

Glad to hear it's finally through. Happy New Year!

No. Sorry they don't interchange since the rears don't need to turn the car, they don't have the same CV joint on the outside. Try www.cvaxles.com for a decent price and quality on re-manned axles.

All your non synthetic oils start off as plain old 30 weight. It's the additives that enhance the oil so it meets all those oil petroleum standards. The first time you start the car after the oil change, the additives start to go away; by the time you get to 3000 miles you are back to plain old 30 weight oil. That's why I change my oil at 2K; if I miss a weekend I can still get it done before the 3K mark. I got this from an oil engineer a long time ago and it seems to work for me. I generally get pretty decent mileage out of my cars...in excess of 250K typically. Changing the filter every 4K comes from the owner's manual which now says change the filter every 7500 miles. Call me conservative. Simplistic explanation, but I'm a simple guy.

I've never had problems with Fram, but that's probably because I change my oil every 2000 miles with a filter change every other time. That said, I buy my OEM filters by the case (of 6) and find the cost is the same unless I find a super sale on the Fram. I have switched over entirely since the cost is virtually the same.

I took one when BP was doing them in Canada. Great fun. The best course I had was a three day course at the Bertil Roos Performance Driving School. What a ball!

While you're checking the lugnuts, check the castle nut for tightness too. Hopefully your mechanic didn't over-extend the axle and ruin the inner joint (DOJ). Does the vibration occur while accelerating and go away immediately when you let off the gas? That's a classic symptom for a bad DOJ. Check the DOJ boots also; if one is torn, the DOJ is likely bad.

It allows you to have lights on for safety when parked and the ignition off. Welcome to the Board. You not the first to have this problem and won't be the last either. It happened to me when I had the car detailed and didn't notice the parking lights were on when I picked it up. Dead battery the next morning; charge it up; see the parking lights lit; I spent too much time trying to figure it out and I finally relented and asked on the Board.

I've been told that the rear axles on an EA81 hatch are the same as the axles on an EA82 wagon. Before I pull the wrong axles can someone confirm that? Thanks.

Glad you made the trip safely. Enjoy.

If you have the power steering setup you might want to have the linkage on the other side since the weber seems to interfere with the power steering reservoir.

Gossgary and MorganM both have the right idea about getting the $5 tool. I've seen it at B&B, Schucks, NAPA, and I think at GI Joe's also. I haven't had any luck with just removing the the master cylinder cap; I suspect there's a check valve in the lines somewhere that keeps the fluid from being forced backwards into the master cylinder. I now open the bleeder valve and drain it into a can with a small hose while I retract the caliper piston.

Temperature at both Lynnwood and Everett yards is usually identical. As of my last visit last week, Lynnwood seemed to have more Subarus in the yard than Everett, altho both yards have a goodly number. They are so close together, you should really go to both if you don't find what you want at the first. Don't forget to bring your tools since it is a "do it yourself" yard. If you're going this afternoon, look for my blue Brat since I expect to be at Lynnwood and then Everett.

Good one Craig. This should definitely go into the repair archives.

One of the comparison tests I read compared the Hakki Q against the Michelin Alpin and Firestone(?) Blizzak. With new tread all three tires were comparable in performance; after taking 30% of the tread off the tires, the Hakkis still performed well while the other two dropped off significantly. I am now on my fourth year of the Hakki Qs on my Brat and they still gave me no trouble on our snow run earlier this month to get our Christmas tree in the mountains. I don't know what else to tell you, but google around to see if you can find some other performance reviews. I have the WRs on my '91 Legacy and they are an "all season" tire. I now have 40K on them and will likely go well past 50K. Unfortunately, we haven/t seen much snow over the last four winters, but the little snow we did have gave me no trouble at all.