edrach

It shouldn't be too hard to replace the vac advance unit. I know they're still available for around $25 after market for the Hitachi carb.

Boy I wish I had known that a year ago; you would have been shipping me tires!!

Another consideration....are you looking for studless or studded tires? I prefer studless since we don't get any real snow around here and I've never had any problems with the Qs on my Brat and the WRs on my Legacy. Another thing, don't get wide tires; go for the stock width or maybe on size narrower. Look at the really skinny tires the rally drivers run on the WRC winter rally circuit.

Unless things are different in AK, the Hakki 1's and 10's have been discontinued here. I wanted to buy a set of 10s without studs for my rallycross passion....I couldn't get any.

I'm with archemitis on this; if the valve doesn't open to let the water run through the heater core very well it could contribute to the heating problem. Altho your comments about the hoses running cool is distressing since they should get quite warm. Lastly the vents in my '84 Brat are controlled by cables; perhaps the cable to your air vent has come off the lever and isn't closing the air intake enough.

Sorry but I have to disagree with that comment. My Brat never ran warmer than 1/4 of the way up the guage. Not a problem since it never came close to overheating. However, we found out it was a 180 degree thermostat and when I installed the stock 195 degree thermostat the temp guage went up to just below the 1/2 way mark on the guage and I had lots of heat out the heater. Now we don't get -2 degree weather here much, but changing the thermostat worked just fine. Just my 2 cents worth.

Also, if you look up his profile I think he has a website for the shop. I'd post it if I could remember it.....darn senior moments.....

Send richierich a PM; he has an excellent shop in Portland.

As they say...."what goes around, comes around." I can honestly saw I've never had a problem with anyone on the USMB in my dealings. It's great to deal with people whose word is their bond.

I may have a 3.900 LSD available for sale in the near future; I'm still thinking about letting it go. I'll repost when I'm ready.

If the idlers are like the tensioners in the EA82 engine, the bearings can't just be pressed out and replaced. The older tensioners have the inner race held in by peening over the inner shaft; once that's destroyed there's no way to use the original with a new bearing. A good machine shop could get around that for you, but then it'll cost you more than the dealer OEM part. Don't skimp on tensioner costs with an interferance engine like yours.

Generally speaking, the turbos didn't come with LSD with any consistency until late '88 or '89; they were optional before then. The RX models came with an LSD from '86 on (I think). All of these were as Noah said, clutch type. The Legacy series uses a viscous type and it seems to be pretty rare...I've never seen one in three years of looking.

At that price I can't be too picky. Sounds like a deal. Thanks. Call me at 425-481-0604 when it's convenient.

I'm looking for an open 3.900 rear diff for my Brat. I'm hoping to find a low miles EA81 or EA82 to pull one from. I guess anything under 150K would be low enough. I just need the info; I'll be glad to pull it myself.

If I remember correctly, it did have the Legacy "hunk" of plastic running across the back. I did manage to salvage the support pistons of this one; first set I've seen that actually picked up the tailgate under their own power once it was hiked half way up. They certainly weren't original and mine have about a year left before I'll need to replace them.

I stopped by today and it was built 2/89. It did have a slightly funky grill but both bumpers were red like the rest of the car.

As Zap suggested, Smart Service is the way to go locally.

Bad alternator.

Parts car nothing; it would make a great project car if it stays cheap.

A number of things can cause the axle nuts to "loosen". If the curved portion of the CVJ is dirty when installed you're tightening it with dirt between the joint and the hub and as you drive, the dirt goes away and the nut is now loose. Nextly a bad cone washer can cause you grief. Also, the wavy flat washer goes in only one correct way...I believe the colored dot is to the outside. It's not the bearings that are bad if tightening the castle nut makes the grinding go away. Lastly, Craig is right about worn splines in the hub.

You know where to ask him. I'm glad to see he's setting out the schedule early this year; it whets the appetite. And with a few NWR events, we might have a full calendar next year.

Mary, what a sweet looking Brat. No wonder you stuck it out with all the grief you went through earlier this year. Enjoy it for years to come.

From Scott Kovalik, ORG RallyCross chairman: I'll be BRIEF!!! The proposed dates for the 2005 RX Season are: Mar. 20 - ORG Rally Cross May. 15 ORG Rally Cross Jun. 26 ORG Rally Cross Aug. 7 ORG Rally Cross Sep. 25 ORG Rally Cross Nov. 6 ORG Rally Cross Still waiting for confirmation from the Washington County Fairplex.

Disconnect the hill holder first and then adjust the clutch cable (about 1/16" to 1/8" of play at the clutch fork or about 1/2" of free play at the clutch pedal) and see if the tranny stops grinding; if it still grinds you have other issues than the hill holder. If it doesn't you can reattach the hill holder cable and adjust it until you can just slip a dime between the coils of the return spring on the hill holder (that's the proper tension). Your hill holder also acts a a return spring for the clutch fork so you should really reattach it.

Lucky you! This girl was blonde and very cute!