edrach

Did I tell you about the blonde hooker who was cruising Everett PAP last week?

My son's '82 Brat is stuck in Bellingham with a possible fuel pump problem. If it's not the filter, anyone near there have a fuel pump for an '82 Brat?

I would have thought it was a '90 also, except the vin plate in the door column listed the manufacture date of 2/89; it might be I mis-read it and it should have been 12/89 but I really don't think so. Doesn't make much difference with 231K on the odo.

Sorry, but I thought you were getting tired of my personal updates.

I saw an '89 Legacy wagon today at PAP; it just came in and it's a manual 5 speed, red, AWD wagon. Looks pretty clean inside and out; 231K on the odo.

I switched over to synthetic (Amsoil 10W-30) with 130K on my '91 Legacy wagon. I did not experience any leaks; as a matter of fact my oil consumption decreased from 1 quart every 1500 miles to 1 quart every 5000 miles. I attribute this to the fact that the synthetic is less prone to "burning" off. On the other hand when I switched to synthetic on our '80 Toyota pickup at 120K, I noticed a fine layer of oil in the engine compartment within a month of the switchover. However, I don't see any actual leaks since I switched. I can't speak to an increase in oil consumption since I change the oil every May (about 3000 miles); this is our camper wagon which only gets used during the summer months.

When you get it home, charge the battery fully too.

They are interchangeable providing the EA81 is also an internal regulator type. Other than that, the EA81 is rated at 55 amps maximum output and the EA82 is rated at 60 amps max. You'll not notice the difference.

I forgot you were local to me. You can get them professionally polished in south Seattle if you want to spend about $60 to $75 per wheel. Pricey, but you'll never do as good a job. I had my spoked alloys done that way and they look fabulous. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=2181&sort=1&cat=598&page=1

A decent metal polish, a polishing wheel, an electric drill and lots of patience and sweat. Once they are shiny, wax them periodically to keep them from oxidizing again.

Alloys are generally better than steel; this is when compared to the EA82 wagon wheels which tend to go out of true very easily. I prefer alloys for appearance if for no other reason.

I've got a set of the Motion Wheels (see my earlier thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=25111&highlight=Motion+wheels). I live NE of Seattle so it would be just a ferry ride and about 2 hours drive if you're interested in buying them.

Maybe your thermostat stays open all the time. Our Brat wouldn't get about the 1/4 mark on the temp guage until I replaced the thermostat; not the guage is at just under 1/2 when it's warm.

Hey, gotta keep trying. But it would be nice to start a folder of wrecking yards by state with locations, phone numbers and comments.

For users of the Search function the next time this comes up: Lynnwood Pull a Part: 425-778-3147 Everett Pull a Part: 425-355-7278 Tacoma Pull a Part: 253-588-1775 Maybe we can post a list of yards, numbers, and locations in a permanent accessible file on the USMB.

You also have two Pull a Part yards on Hwy 99...one in Lynnwood and the other in South Everett. A third down in Tacoma.

I have a guy in Ballard that rebuilds them also and I'd rather go there than the mega auto stores since I can talk with the rebuilder and I trust what he does more than the anonymous units I can buy at shucks or such. Cost depends on what's wrong and how much he has to replace...it can go as high as $120; the least I've ever paid is $68. I get a decent warranty on the work but he won't give me a "lifetime" warranty. I still trust his work more; I've yet to have to take an alternator back to him for re-work.

Look carefully at any one of the spokes. If you start at the hub you'll find the spoke has a smooth curve all the way out to the rim on the EA-81 wheels. Compare that to the spoke on the EA-82 wheels and you'll notice a definite "kink" in the spoke just before it gets to the rim. Qman is correct, all EA82 wheels will fit on the older cars, but the EA81 wheels will rub on the EA82 front caliper. This general statement is not true for the alloy wheels which seem to work on either generation of cars (at least I haven't found a set that don't). The EA81 wheels tend to be more robust than the newer ones. The EA82 wheels can bend at the "kink" more readily and will start to wobble when that happens. I once had collected 3 sets of the EA82 wheels and took them to a local tire shop to have them checked for "trueness." Only 4 out of the 12 were okay; that's when I switched to alloy wheels on my EA82 wagon and still use the older style wagon wheels on the Brat or older wagon.

Check my thread in the Off Topic forum. I suspect this year's low turnout might indeed be the higher entry fee although I feel it reflects the costs of putting on the events.

On slow charge, charge it overnight for the next few days. A typical battery has a capacity of about 60 ampere-hours (i.e. charge at one amp for 60 hours to be fully charged). So if your slow charger is 2 amps and you drove it for about 15 minutes (charging at ??--maybe 15 amp rate), you only added about 5 ampere-hours of charge (2A times 1/4 hour plus 15A times 1/4 hour) less what it lost in starting the car. If it started for you, it certainly wasn't completely discharged. But you need to give it more lots more time at the slow rate to fully charge your battery. Have the battery tested at autozone, but if it's only 1 year old, it should be okay; if not, it should be a pretty close to free replacement. Bring your receipt from the purchase of the battery.

You really need to get a hold of snowman. Sorry, but you don't need to pull the distributor to replace the rotor and cap. There is only one right way to put the disty back in. Wait for someone who's done it before to give you a hand.

Grab the rear rotors and calipers anyway; they work on the 4WD car also....only thing different between 2WD and 4WD is the hub and backing plate.

Next thing to do is check your brake pads. Brake fluid is in a closed system; assuming it isn't leaking anywhere, the likely cause for decrease in fluid is that as the pads wear down the fluid level drops accordingly.

Glad you weren't seriously hurt. Do yourself a favor, check in with a doctor and have your back and neck checked out. I was rear ended last year and it took 6 months of therapy to get my neck back to normal.

Wait until after the ORG meeting this coming Wednesday (discussion of rule changes) because you might have the opportunity to run in a new Truck/SUV class with your wagon which would allow modifications not available in Production. In no event would I lift the car if you plan to rallycross it.