edrach

Start from the beginning. Change the oil; check the coolant and flush it if you like--then change the coolant or top it up; unless the thermostat won't open, it isn't the cause of your over heating. With one that old I'd bet on the radiator, but do the basics first before you spend too much. You got it for a good price and you can afford to spend a little more to make a reliable daily driver out of it.

Mary, it's so good to hear. I wish you many years of good luck with the Brat.

If it's the original pump, I'd say it was just old. I found on my '86 wagon that it was a good idea to replace it with every 2nd timing belt change (i.e. every 120K) or sooner if it didn't look okay.

So, did you pull the LSD's out of the RX's?

No, I don't; I wouldn't have thought it necessary down here, but that may be a cheap solution. What do they normally cost?

Interesting, now that we're having a cold snap in Seattle, I've noticed my '91 Legacy (135K miles) has significant lifter noise when I start it up in the morning; noise goes away after 10 to 15 minutes of driving. I noticed the following thread on the Old Gen Forum http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=25389 and wonder if there isn't a better way of treating this problem other than using a "cocktail" of differing grades of oil. I'm currently using Amsoil 10W-30 synthetic year-round if that's useful information. It's been a long time since any significant work has been done on the engine (timing belt service last done at 75K miles) and I'm not aware of any oil pump related service prior to that (original owner kept no records of service work).

I've had poor luck with ARI rebuilts bought at the local autopart store. Considering how little argument I got from the shop when I returned them, I think they weren't the first ones he had returned. I've never bought ARI remans from them again. I won't buy new since they've been too pricey. I've had good success with the axles I've gotten from cvaxles.com--$55 plus shipping plug returnable core charge. I've installed over a dozen of them and only had one failure after the boot let go; they replaced it after inspection with no charge to me other than my cost for shipping the failed axle to them. The current set of cvaxles from them have been on my Brat for over 30K miles and show no signs of failure. My best success has been to carefully inspect axles on wrecks at Pull a Part and use them. They generally cost me $25 each plus the labor to pull them an re-install them. They come with a 30 day warranty and if they last a week they'll last a fairly long time.

No. My BS detector went offscale reading the description.

I've had good experience with cvaxles.com and can vouch for their quality. Wheel bearings I tend to buy OEM or from Smart Service in Shoreline.

Yes, there was a garbage can right next to where I had my canopy set up. Hopefully, the poster knows where your tote is now.

Some pics from the rallycross (thanks Travis): http://www.wintersthorn.com/gallery/albun65

It was still there at 3pm when I left; Open class was still running at that time. I wish I had realized it was yours.

If you only hit a couple of cones you were doing great; I hit seven on my last run alone! More than I've hit in the past three years.

Count me in for a permit; I think I'll be able to make the 27th altho I think the 4th might be better for me.

And for those who are interested today's winners also reflect the season winners in Truck/SUV: 1st: Eric Rachner--80 points 2nd: qman--72 points 3rd: edrach--64 points 4th: 84SOOB--62 points Also FlowmasteredGL was first in the morning session of Time Only competitors.

Richard, I'm out right now, but if I find another set, I'll try to keep you in mind. Feel free to send me a PM if you still don't have a set and don't get a response from anyone else in the next month or so. ---Ed---

An inch or two of rain; I hope you've got oars on that wagon! I would prefer wet also, but I do so much like the dry, fast courses. I will try to remember to bring the carb for you Jason.

So back to the same question....how do you test the O2 sensor with a multimeter? More specifically, at what reading is it considered bad? The gas mileage on my '91 Legacy has dropped off significantly in the last year and it still runs great...but I'm down to 21 to 22 around town from the 25/26 I used to get.

Odd that these posts should appear now that winter approaches. Here in the Seattle area, the gas stations switch over to gasoline with 10% alcohol content. I've noticed a 15% reduction in gas mileage every year in November which goes away again in the Spring.

What should a good one read versus a bad one?

No documentation, but you should check the ball joints and such for play.

Very similar to what happens when you have a bad inner joint (DOJ) on the axle; if you have a torn boot on either or both inner joints, I'd bet on a bad joint.

They look like the 8 spoke steelies to me.

You can get the rims pictured at either Pull a Part wrecking yard in the area. Drop me a PM and I can get you more specific information.

Smart Service in Shoreline is a good bet. Zap beat me to posting the link; 'phone number is 206-417-0880. Brian's Subaru Serive is Burien is another. 206-242-0925. I work in Redmond and haven't found a decent shop closer than these two.