edrach

4WD Turbo wagon (7/86) went into the yard today. GL-10 type with blue interior. Really nice velour seats which need just a bit of cleaning. Turbo unit still there; wheels and rear disks are gone. Sorry, only open diff on this one....otherwise it would have been gone too.

Rationales for bringing your WRX, Brat, or E81, or Justy to Hood River this Sunday (possibly in order of priority): 1) breakfast available 2) lunch available 3) can sleep in and still make the afternoon session (?) 4) the best rallyx soil in Oregon 5) Paul Eklund-designed killer course (uses the entire field!) 6) can camp under the stars Sat. night 7) you get to drive the Gorge 8) awesome view of Mt. Adams, turn 180 for Mt. Hood 9) last runs before the monsoons arrive (?) 10) John Alley organized event 11) Scott K. directed event 12) driving monitored by Rich O. or his effigy 13) timing & scoring by Chris squared (?) 14) registration by angels 15) you get to be king/queen of your corner/grid/stopwatch 16) breakfast 17) lunch 18) likely 4 runs each 19) you get to drive the Gorge - again (Thanks to Bill Price for this; sorry for the slight modification for the USMB)

If all else fails, run your vac line to the distributor from a manifold vac port. I think the vac line on the weber is a delayed vac.

Schucks, B&B, Action Auto. Also, GI-Joes carries them for about $1.25 each.

Look at them; there are three coils of resistor wire. If any one or all of them are broken the unit is no good. Be very careful handling the wires, they are very fragile after all this time and you might pull a good one and find a broken wire on it when you get home. Your best bet is to look for the newest Loyale or GL model you can fine (same unit from '81 to '93).

Dan, I wouldn't be too concerned. My engine might be new and working very well, but the Delta cam may have a lot to do with it having trouble passing emissions. I had the same weber and manifold on the old engine and it passed emissions just fine. Also, the emissions guru is available to you in south Seattle also; he charges $39.95 plus tax and if you don't pass, you don't pay.

You're on. I'm curious too, but not enough to spend the going rate for a dyno test.

Galen, yes the car has significantly more power than before and I'm getting phenomenal gas mileage (>30 mpg on the highway). A dyno would be cool but I can think of better things to spend my money on for the car other than having a piece of paper telling me what I already know (i.e. that it goes faster!). ---Ed---

I'll be there raring to go!

My '84 Brat finally passed without major repairs but it just barely made it. The reason I'm posting is for you Washington State people (where the emission nazis don't care what's under the hood....just the sniffer results) there is hope for a pretty non-standard engine to make it through. My Brat has a newly rebuilt EA81 engine with under 3000 miles on the clock. It came with a hefty Delta cam (don't ask me which one since I don't know) and I installed my weber and old manifold from the previous engine. The EGR is still present but not actuated by vacuum at all; I'll put a plate there when I get around to it. All the emission stuff was de-activated when I first took it through. It failed big time for HCs at idle: 1293 ppm (limit is 220). It passed everything else. I had the valves readjusted since there seemed to be an issue there and re-activated the Air Suction Valve with manifold vacuum. That got the HCs down into the 600 ppm range. After reading up on webers (thanks Svengali and oddcomp) and bugging a number of people (thanks to Bow Wow in Lynnwood and Carbs Unlimited in Fife), I changed the primary idle jet from a #45 to a #55. I "tuned" it by ear as best I could (our local emissions guru was out with an injury); it failed again, but the HCs were almost there at 253; but the CO at idle now failed at 2.63% (limit 1.2%) also. Today I went back to our emissions guru (he's back at work again:) and he tweaked the mixture a bit and retarded the spark somewhat. The car passed....not with flying colors, but in this case an inch is as good as a mile. Final results: Cruise HC: 150 (limit 170) Cruise CO: 0.37% (limit 1.2%) Idle HC: 192 (limit 220) Idle CO: 1.12% (limit 1.2%) There seems to be a very slight engine miss which is not helping any and I'll troubleshoot that some more now that I can drive it again. But there is hope for those of us who want a hotter engine and still need to pass emissions. I'll only need to do this one more time in two years and then my Brat will be exempt from further testing:) .

Oh, Corky....you are harsh!

But you'll have died happy! And your heirs will have a fine Brat. :) Anyway, as far as the tranny goes, make sure the Brat is level when you try to re-install it. If you have the front end jacked up and the rears on the ground the car is at one angle and the tranny is going in at another....and never the twain shall meet. Trust me I've been there. Also, consider renting a tranny jack for the re-install; that'll give you more control over the "angle of attack." Try moosens; I'm sure he likes food and he's trying to earn money for another project he posted on the Board earlier.

Mary, don't confuse the thermoSWITCH on the radiator which turns on the fan with the thermal SENSOR which tells the temp guage what the water temp is in the engine. Two different items with two different, but related, functions.

If you have an engine hoist, it's generally easier to remove/re-install the engine when doing a clutch job. There's less work involved in removing the transmission, but it's more difficult to re-install the transmission after the clutch work than re-installing an engine.

There should be a small black wire at the top center of the radiator which grounds the radiator to the chassis. If it's not there or broken, the radiator is not grounded and the the fan will not work. Flow's suggestion is spot on. If you touch the yellow wire to a good ground the fan should come on (doesn't matter if the engine is hot or cold--it should work either way since you're by-passing the thermal switch); if it does, you know the fan is getting power and the fan motor is good; then you have either a bad thermal switch or poorly grounded radiator. If the fan doesn't come when you touch the yellow wire to a good ground, you either have no power to the fan or a bad fan motor.

Sorry, it just dawned on me that you're swapping from n/a to the turbo and not the other way around. I hope the n/a d/r will be rugged enough to handle the extra power available in your turbo.

Patrick, we finally get to the real question. It's been an interesting, informative ride for me....and I don't have an answer. Another consideration; the lower rear end ratio of the turbo tranny and diff reflect the increased power of the turbo; how will you be feeling with the n/a engine and turbo drive train? It might be easier to find someone with a n/a d/r transmission and swap with him and not have all this hassle. However, DO move the rear disks to the n/a car...that's easy and well worth the effort. I see you live in Spokane. It might also be quicker to get the answer you seek to go to the pull a part yard in town and drop a rear axle off of two cars and count the splines. I'd be surprised if anyone has done this swap before; I think you're the first to bring it up.

Good call, Dylan. The rear disks would indicate that it's a turbo. That does complicate things because now he'll need to move the diff and front axles as well. I don't know if the spline count on the rear (since he's moving the diff) is different on a turbo; I've never run into that before.

Speed is really not a factor; the fan turns pretty quickly at 3 mph in low gear. The plastic fan blade hits the water, twists and eats a chunk out of the back of the radiator. Funny thing, this happened to me a long time ago in my Datsun. Easy fix to replace the radiator; took me less than 30 minutes once I bought it and some new anti-freeze. I made sure it never happened again by replace the fan assembly with one out of a 240Z; viscous clutch on the fan....when the fan hits water, the fan stops turning, doesn't twist, and doesn't damage the rad. Time to get on with your life and chalk this one up to life's downsides.

Dylan, being a GL-10 doesn't mean it's a turbo. GL-10 just referred to the top of the line interior package with the plush seats, fancier dash and sun-roof. However, you're correct in your comment that if it is a turbo, the inner joint of the axel will be a different spline count (25) and the rear diff will be a 3.700 instead of the 3.900 on the n/a cars.

If you're swapping the transmission only, it shouldn't matter. The driveshaft goes to the rear diff and you shouldn't need to do anything with the rear axles when changing transmissions. Spline count shouldn't matter unless you're going from a turbo to non/aspirated in which case it would get more complicated since the rear diff ratios are different. Having done a few rear drum/disk swaps, the axles have always been the same and do not need to be changed either.

I can't be sure, but I believe the EA82 axles are longer than the EA81s. The true EA82T are supposed to be stronger. You can tell the difference by the raised ring on the axleshaft itself; 2WD is one ring; 4WD is two rings; and turbo axles are 3 rings. This only tells you which is which; don't have a clue as to which are stronger.

Clutch should be adjusted to have 1/16" to 1/8" of free play at the clutch fork or about 1/2" free play at the pedal. I haven't a clue as to why it's 2" higher than your brake pedal but it doesn't sound right and it wouldn't have anything to do with the proper clutch engagement.

I would think a bad or loose connection somewhere. Check both battery cables and connections.

You need at least 1/16" of free play at the clutch fork (or 1/2" to 3/4" at the clutch pedal). Any less than that, or no play, means you're not engaging the clutch completely and you'll start wearing it out big time.