edrach

Trust me, this is a common fraud attempt. They search the internet listings for big ticket items and tell you they have an interested party for your "goods". The idea is that they will send you a certified check for more than your "goods" are worth and you should send them the goods and the balance of the excess of the certified check. After you send them a cashier's check for the excess and the "goods" you find your bank will call you to tell you the certified check bounced. Report it to the FBI since it is internet fraud. http://www.ifccfbi.gov/index.asp. I had a link somewhere that explained this scam in detail but I can't find it. The real tipoff is that they never specifically mention your item by name, only a generic term as well as noting that the author of the scam generally has english as a second language. Beware!

XSNRG was 2nd in PGT also. John Alley was 3rd in Open if I remember correctly.

I have an '86 FSM. I'll see what's there and try to get a copy of it for you.

Closest I've been to the top time ever. Finally saw the times; I've been waiting, looking to see how close we all really were. Competition is great and lots of fun!

Glad it's fixed. It just goes to show ya, stop looking for the difficult things and stick with the simple stuff.

You're right about air in the lines...my fault. How about water? Brakes get hot, water turns to steam, and now you have lots of pressure. Bleed and replace the fluid; use new fluid which hasn't had time to absorb water. I still don't know why it shouldn't affect the fronts at the same time.

Nice to know you're back again. Expect an email from seahag1978 about her Brat. She was really hurting for your expertise.

You are so lucky! The first one ever to have trouble with the rear disk conversion. Only thing I can think of is there's air in the lines that's expanding and causing the rears to lock up. What really puzzles me is why the fronts aren't giving you the same problem. I'd consider opening the bleeder on each rear separately when they are locked and see what comes out. You might have some particles in the brake fluid causing it to act like a checkvalve and keeping the pressure up. Bleed enough fluid out and you might fix the problem. Are both rears grabbing or just one?

I'm with Junkie. Go to the local Pull a Part and take the entire rear brake setup off a 4WD turbo....backing plate, hub, rotor, caliper and pads. It's a direct bolt on and will be less work than repairing a set of drums for the rear. Just be sure ahead of time that the problem with her brakes is the fact that the rears need work and not a problem with the master cylinger or something like that. If her's is a 2WD gen2, you need to find rear disks from a 2WD turbo; backing plate and hub is different.

Gas shocks are available for the Brat. I prefer KYBs. http://www.importedcarparts.com/ http://www.expressautoparts.com/

A new '88 Turbo wagon at Lynnwood; GL-10 style with digidash and sunroof; wheels are gone, but turbo unit and rear brakes are still there (chewed up rotors but otherwise ok). Everett has an '89 Loyale wagon.

Picture is certainly from Zap's back yard.

Can you get pics of this? Maybe we could take them at Hood River; I'll bring my camera.

I wish I could remember the difference, but I didn't pay much attention since I was pulling for a 4WD. I think it was the hole in the center being significantly larger on the 4WD version; it has to clear the bearing housing and the 2WD only has the stubaxle for the tapered bearings.

Only parts that are different are the hub and backing plate. Calipers, pads, and rotors are the same. No splines on the 2WD rear; tapered bearings and stubaxle which fit with the different hub.

The only issue I've had with the conversion is removing the backing plate on some cars can be a problem. Have plenty of rust penetrant and patience ready if you find one of those.

Craig, I would guess the answer is yes. I've done the conversion on 5 cars now without problems. When I had rear drums the brake pedal would grab lower as the rear pads wore down (using more brake fluid to do so). With the rear disks this doesn't happen since the rears are now self adjusting to compensate for wear (needing less brake fluid than the drum brakes).

Bill, if you're still on the Board, check your email. I can bring the wheels I have to Wild West today. I'm working the event today but not tomorrow. I hope we can get something worked out. My 'phone # is in your email. ---ed---

Let me think about it. I still have to get one weber together for my other son's Brat.

Well, it is sort of a spare. It's pretty raunchy and likely needs a thorough rebuild. But it came in handy since it had a jet that seemed to be just the right size for what my car needed.

A newly arrived '89 XT in bright red. Not here long but doors are already missing. Other body parts okay.

Mary, don't beat yourself up. We all get frustated with our cars (or our work) at times. Keep up the effort and keep another fine gen1 Brat out of the crusher.

I've learned a lot about webers in the last few weeks. Some background: I have a fine rebuilt engine in my '84 Brat complete with a hotter Delta cam and weber. It was due for emissions and it failed bigtime: ..........HC (limit) CO (limit) cruise 169 (170) .06 (1.2) Pass, but just barely ...idle 1293(220) .09 (1.2) Fail HCs bigtime My favorite emissions guru got the HCs down to 600 but finally gave up and said, "It's the cams." I came to the same conclusions as Jon of Scio (the other weber thread) with some help from people at Bow-wow and carbs unlimited and the weber manuals (thanks oddcomp and svenguli7). The engine rebuilder checked his weber on his engine (which has passed emissions) and found the idle jet at 50. I have a 45 jet and the mix screw is at 3/4 turn out from bottem (indicating too rich). I found a 55 jet in one of my spare webers and installed it. Tried tweaking it as best I could and took my chances with an emissions re-test. Here are the results: ...........HC (limit) CO (limit) cruise 142 (170) .39 (1.2) Pass ...idle 253 (220) 2.63 (1.2) Failed HCs and CO. It's nice to see reality fit the theory and I'm sure we can get it to pass when the emissions guru is back (he lost an argument with his chain saw and is unavailable for a few weeks). However, I'm curious as to why the CO went out so badly when the HCs came in to reasonable range.

That is the absolutely correct procedure. However, I have a small clarification to add. As you say, the one jet you might consider changing is the primary idle jet; this is an air bleed jet and the comments about which way to go if rich or lean are correct in your description. However, playing with the other jets will not do you much good. The weber is a fairly simple carb. Everything below 3000 rpm is governed by the primary idle jet and the mixture screw. Playing with the air bleed jets and/or main jets isn't something you can do without the proper equipment to monitor air/fuel ratio at various rpms. The secondary idle jet's main purpose in life is to ease the transition when the secondary opens up around 3500 rpm. I've learned a bit over the last two weeks about the weber and I'm still trying to get mine to pass emissions but this guide will help get you close if not right on; depends how good an "ear" you have for tuning.

www.cvaxles.com will make you a set of custom axles for your car with either the 23 or 25 tooth splines.