edrach

Yea, those are the ones you just sold me! Give me a call at home if you like or on the cell phone.

Depends on condition and how bad the buyer wants them. Typically go for $25 apiece. If you have any, I'm looking for the 5-1/2" width version of these; I have two 6" rims of this style and I'm looking for the smaller ones to complete a set.

Jeff, I know you've already pulled an EA-82 engine, but I would think an EA-81 would be more adaptable to what you have in mind. Somewhat lighter altho still an 1800cc engine and no timing belts to fail suddenly. Just a thought.

Requires an adapter. Available from Bow-wow for $30. Carbs Unlimited sells it also. www.carbsunlimited.com www.webercarburetors.com are two places that carry webers and accessories

You won't get any simpler or better than a 32/36 DGV weber. Pricy if new (around $350 for the kit) but can be found used at the wrecking yards for substantially less. You find them here on the Board for about $75 used and recently I saw one posted at around $130 rebuilt (I trust the rebuilder....I bought two from him a while back).

Have you gotten the nut off that holds the pulley? If not, try an impack wrench; that will get it off.

Not sure if the diode trio and main diodes are aftermarket items. However, if you're getting that deep into the guts of the alternator, you might as well replace the bearings too. Parts should be available from a good alternator shop if you really want to do the work yourself. However, by the time you spend the money for the parts you might as well pay the extra labor and let an experienced person rebuild the alternator.

The reason I'm so down on the "off brands" of gasoline is that every time I've filled up with them, I drive out of the station and get a mile down the road and hear the engine ping everytime I step on the gas. Get down to 1/2 tank and fill up with a name brand high test and the ping goes away. Nothing basically wrong with the gas other than the fact the octane rating is noticeably lower than the name brands. My personal experience only.

Moosens, if you need a working computer just for email and such. I can send you a compaq 400Mhz unit with 4gig drive and 128Mb RAM for cheap (loaded with Win2000 and Office). That's what I've been using for 6 months now until I get around to building my own "up to date" box. Let me know.

An '82 wagon should certainly be an EA81 model.

I'd be surprised if it's not the filters if they are that old. Altho I wouldn't put cheap gas (Arco, Tesoro, etc.) in my car unless my life depended on it.

I don't know which model you have, but check the fuel filter (both of them if you have two). Anything more than two years old can clog on you and give you the same symptoms as bad gas.

BigJim on this Board offers jets for the weber. Other than that www.carbsunlimited.com and Redline can get you all the jets you need. You did the right thing getting an engine from CCR...great people, great engine rebuilds. BigJim's board name is bigjim5551212.

Other than being very careful removing the manifold bolts, replacing the manifold gaskets is too simple not to do. I wouldn't mess with the pepper in the coolent since, it may not go where the leak is. How do you know it's leaking? What symptoms are you basing tha opinion on? Just trying to get a better handle on what's happening and finding a better fix.

Before you do something rash. Fully charge the battery. A good, fully charged battery should give you more than 4 starts. If you have a 10 amp battery charger with a current meter on it, you'll see the charge current is pretty high initailly. As it charges up, the current drops and how far it drops tells you how good the battery is. If it won't drop below 4 amps, the battery is on its last legs. A good battery will have the charging current down below 1 amp when it's done. Secondly, make sure all your high current connections to the battery, alternator, starter are clean and solid. Lastly check all the high current ground connections to the battery, motor, alternator and so forth. With a car as old as yours, bad connections are very likely. Good luck.

I've done a steering rack on a non-power steering GL and didn't have to pull the engine. I'd think about it a bit before I did that unless you think it'll be easier and worth the extra time.

Skip, glad to see you posting again. I've missed your wisdom on the old school cars. Good luck with the Legacy.

Did they really make turbos back then in the dark ages?

Why yes, I do. However, let me qualify that. I have an '84 Brat which is not my daily driver. When I plan on a long trip with it, I drop my spare alternator in the car. I'm a firm believer in one of Murphy's laws...."it you're carrying a spare part, it will never fail." Besides that, I ALWAYS carry a spare alternator belt. On my daily driver ('91 Legacy) I have a spare alternator (from a junkyard at $20 and checked for proper operation in my car before I put it on the shelf again) sitting on a shelf in my garage. I don't put it in my car for even long trips but that's because it's my daily driver and I think I can anticipate when it might fail (bearings make noise, idiot lights glow). Another item that will cause your alternator to fail prematurely, is oil. Excessive oil in the engine compartment and coating the alternator will cause it to fail in short order.

Most common failure mode is the diode trio which causes all three of the idiot lights to glow dimly. This usually gives you some warning but the main diodes will fail one day to one week later.

Welcome back. Not much to do....and you had to wait until 1:00 AM to post this?!!

Good progress Carl. Slow and steady wins the race as they say. I don't want to scare you but the steering rack is a bit of a chore, but I'm sure you can do it. Worst part of it is that it's usually messy and oily. You'll be pleased with the car when you've accomplished all the repairs needed.

75W90 is what the manual calls for. If you have an older transmission with slightly worn synchros I would suggest the Redline 75W90NS which will help shifting somewhat.

Actually, rusting from the rain is the problem.

Just a guess, since idle is the usual failure that I've seen. Have you checked the vacuum advance on the distributor? Your car is old enough to have the diaphragm bad; no advance would certainly hurt you at cruise.