edrach

I don't know if you need to care. I've done about 8 of the conversions on EA81 vintage cars and never noticed that I might need to change the proportioning valve. All of them have worked just fine along with working better than the original drum rears.

Brian, I know it's a legacy but I can't see how your rad would cost almost double the price of a EA82 rad. Have you shopped around? E.g. www.radiators.com? Tell them you got their name on the USMB and what's their best price?

Two suggestions: Get a wrecking yard distributor and replace it temporarily. Then send your old distributor to http://www.philbingroup.com/rebuilt/distributors.htm. They will rebuilt it for you (suggest they test the ignition module and/or replace it). Their prices are quite reasonable and you'll have a working unit you can trust as well as a backup used one. Ooops, sorry; I thought yours was a new thread and just saw that you already appear fixed. Philbin is still a good outfit to deal with.

The turbo engine can be quite reliable. However, things to avoid....DO NOT ALLOW it to OVERHEAT. The Turbo engine runs hotter than non-turbo and as a result, the water cooling hoses tend to fail more often...which can lead to overheating. If you're sure the engine is in good shape now, you might consider replacing all the hoses with OEM hoses or silicon hose as soon as you can. The critical ones and more difficult ones are the hoses to and from the turbo unit; there's also a short, small diameter hose in the top, front center of the engine that requires lifting the manifold to replace it. This is a job a reasonably talented individual can do but it will take time and patience but is well worth the effort. A double row radiator will help if you think the old one is on its last legs.

Carl, a bearing press is nice, but not needed. If you're careful you can replace the bearings by tapping them in with a drift punch. Out is easier since you need not worry about damaging the bearing race. I'd suggest you pull a front assembly at Pull a Part, check it for good bearing first, and then re-grease the bearings and install that instead. Less downtime and you'll have an easier time of it; also, the entire assembly with bearings will likely cost you less than new bearings. By the way, are you still looking for rear disks?

Some of the bearings are quite tight; but the bearing shouldn't come out when you remove the axle.

Unless that was you at WCSS6, there was another 360 sedan there; also one of the fairgrounds personnel owns a 360 mini-truck which was also there. I believe you might find another 360 sedan at Smart Service.

Great show guys. The mud pit was awesome and seemed to be the star of the show. Dinner and awards together was quite good. Give our thanks to the Hood River cooks. Show and shine was cool also....lots of neat cars to see.

Count me in on the CD; send me your address by PM and I can send you a check for your trouble. Thanks, ---Ed---

I don't want to rain on your parade, but I can guarantee that the insurance company will "total" the car. But you can buy it back and repair it if you like. Like Rick says, there are lots of rear clips in the yards. Only downside is the time, aggravation, and salvage title that you'll get. Good luck with it. I got rear ended at very low speed (minimal damage to the car) and I'm still seeing a chiropractor for my neck.

It sounds like a cool idea. I should be there with my wife and join you.

Rick, that's the key to preventing this failure; always torque that castle nut down. Over-tighten if necessary...it won't hurt it to be too tight.

Worn hub every time; easy and cheap fix if you have a junkyard nearby.

Not that unusual at all. I had a friend with the same problem just this week replace the hub in my driveway after having had the car towed here. I've seen the same problem three other times over the last 5 years.

Let Scott know, he'll appreciate it.

I took the liberty of transferring Corky's fine map to a separate thread for the benefit of the computer challenged like myself. His map shows the three Hood River exits as #1, #2, and #3; if you're coming from Portland on I-84 those Hood River exits are marked #62, #63, and #64 respectively. I found I had to zoom in on the map to get it to show clearly on my computer. In case some people have never been to the Hood River Fair Grounds, they are not in Hood River, they are in a little town just south of Hood River called O'Dell, OR. The Fair Grounds are located near the corner of Wyest Rd. and Summit Drive in O'Dell. Take any of the three exits to Hood River heading south and it will get you near the grounds, if you get lost, stop anyone in O'Dell, they should know where the Fair Grounds are. From personal past experience, I found that taking Exit 62 to be the easiest way to get there; I got lost using Exit 63. For the map reading challenged, I would suggest taking Country Club Rd. west off of State Route 30. Make a left onto Barret Drive. Then right onto Tucker Road. Tucker Road becomes Dee Highway (you might consider taking Odell Hwy here since it looks more interesting and then follow the map to Summit Dr.). Left onto Summit Drive and follow to the Fairgrounds at Wyeast Road. Here is a map, http://corkysrocks.net/WCSS6.jpg

Got this today from the ORG Rallycross chairman; self explanatory: Hello all... It has been passed on to me in this past week that just about EVERYONE is going (or had gone) to Ojibwe this weekend. As such, we are extremely short for the Rally Cross this Sunday, yes THIS Sunday, in Hood River. Myself, Chris Hale and John Alley will be the only ORG staff there to my knowledge and there's alot more to do than we are capable of. I need help in the following places... Registration Timing/Scoring Tech Starting We need to get the Cash Box from Simon (or whomever has it) to the event as well. The Trailer is at Rich's place out here in Vancouver and needs to be hauled to Hood River. I have a truck and can do it but was planning on driving my Rally Car out there and I can't pull it with that. So if there's a volunteer with a truck or someone that wouldn't mind driving my Durango, let me know. John Alley seems to have just about everything else under control. PLEASE let me know ASAP if you can help. This event being held in conjunction with a Subaru event so the turnout should be pretty good. Call or email me at dkov@pacifier.com. Thanks a million! Scott Kovalik ORG SCCA RX DIR --------------

Talk to me at WCSS6 and I'll go back and look at the two turbos in the yard and see if I can pull it for you.

Car was pretty high mileage for a turbo...over 200K on the odo. Must have been running pretty well for the previous owner to do shocks, axles and some engine work.

Car was not wrecked. Yes, the rear disks are still there as of today.

An '89 turbo wagon showed up at Lynnwood PAP yesterday. Other than the turbo assembly, it's still reasonably intact. No fancy wheels of LSD diff. But it is 4WD with an automatic tranny. Seems to have recent shocks all around as well as front axles. Gen2 heads with evidence of recent work on the driver's side of the engine.

The splines you want to check are on the hub you get from the junkyard. If the castle nut isn't tight enough it can smooth out the splines in the hub in no time. Sorry you can't get Pep Boys to make good on their service. Do it yourself, it's not hard. Don't take it back to Pep Boys for any other work.

Mick has the right sizes. Don't even think about the smaller clutch. Even under normal use, the smaller clutch will slip way too soon on a 4WD car. I made that mistake on the first Brat we had and before I knew the difference. You'll just wind up replacing it within a few months. Find a good flywheel and have it resurfaced (don't let them grind of the little "nubbies" that locate the pressure plate).

The pressure washer thing is the cone washer...have I got that right? If so, that's replaceable along with the spring washer. The hub itself can be easily gotten from the wrecking yard; just be sure that you get one where the internal splines are not excessively worn. The two washers and hub can be gotten for und $20 from the wrecking yard. Hopefully, they didn't strip the threads on the axle since that would require changing the axle too; expensive since you couldn't use the old axle as a core. Just an aside....if Pep boys messed this up, why wouldn't they fix it?

Caleb is correct; the cracks are present in almost any set of heads and you shouldn't need to worry about them. There's an outfit here in Washington that remans heads and they charge $195 plus old core for a rebuilt EA82. I can dig up the number for you if you need it. Good luck and welcome to the Board.