edrach

The Tacoma Pull a Part is off of highway 512 (Steele St. exit).

Boy you guys are getting some good prices for the brake parts. Even for more, it's a worthwhile conversion. No more adjusting the brakes to take up for shoe wear and much easier to replace pads rather than shoes. They do help slow you down much better also. I have a complete set and would be willing to ship but it won't be at the prices you've been getting. Also, I've found shipping runs about $40 due to the weight of the complete setup. If anyone is interested drop me an email or PM.

You will also require an adapter plate to mount it on your manifold because the bolt holes do not match up. That runs about $30. You might come by an look at a few setups. I live in Bothell and there are a few others with that setup that would be glad to "show it off."

Not sure if an EA81 5 speed would fit, but you'd lose the ability of 4WD; all those trannies were 2WD only.

I've never seen a composite lamp in a sealed version for any price let alone $13 to $15. If you find them, let us know. Also, new composite lamps from the dealer are around $175. Wrecking yard price $25 to $60 depending on where you go.

Sweet, get that LSD before someone else snags it. It's less than a 30 minute job if the car is up in the air. Four bolts on the driveshaft, two roll pins on the axle studs (bring the PB Blaster just in case the splines are rusted on), one big honking bolt in the front and two nuts in the back and it should just fall to the ground. Do a search and see how to convert to 3.900 or sell it on the Board--you shouldn't have any trouble finding a buyer.

Cool, the switch to the Legacy is so sweet. Best of luck with it.

How did you adjust the cable?

Rick, funny how the 4 speed trannies all seem to do the same thing. Another one of our cars had the exact same symptom. We learned to take it out of 4th before coming to a stop; otherwise it would get stuck.

I have to concur with Rob. We've had two that did the same thing. I replaced one with a 4 speed and the other with a 5 speed. Nothing you can do that I'm aware of without going into the gearbox.

Good find; I'm glad it went to someone who's willing to use it. Certainly a waste if it went to the crusher. Know anyone who'll make me a good offer on the welded diff?

I've never seen sealed beam conversions that fit. But do you have the quad rectangular headlamps or the composite (two large headlamps) style on your wagon? If you have a DL with the quad headlamps, go for the sealed beam units; I thought you were looking for the composite type. Also, I only have two composite lamps in my "inventory"--both are for the passenger side.

As far as I know it's the same. I've done six already and haven't found a car that they didn't hook up to.

Have you seen the times for Goodwin (appropriate last name I just realized:grin: )and his Justy? More power to you, but this is a guy that beats fully prepared Open class cars and drivers; especially when the track is wet. Good luck Rob, you WILL need it.

Cool, the gaunlet has been tossed! I don't think they'll let him run in Truck/SUV.

I will check to make sure I have a driver's side. I wouldn't send you one that had a chip in it. They cost enough at Pull a Part to keep me from pulling any that aren't pretty close to perfect. UPS shipping to NJ would likely be under $10.

Firstly, don't run in 4WD on blacktop or dry paveent; bad for the transfer case. In 4WD, the front and rear wheels are joined together through the transfer case. If the front and rear tires are not the exact same diameter, one axle will roll further than the other for each wheel revolution. Eventually, that difference causes binding in the drive train and can damage it....it needs to slip. Works fine in snow or on dirt when it can slip; but not on pavement when it can't. Now back to LSD; 86 Brats never came with LSD. However, if you find one, it can be installed once you convert it to 3.900 rear ratio from the original 3.700. That's a topic for another thread. However, some '89 Turbos came with LSD and I'd check the one you're working on for the disk brakes. Check the label on the rear and it'll give you part #, ratio, and if it's LSD will say so in large letters. LSDs are a bit rare and in great demand. Typically sell for $125 or more plus shipping here on the Board. I have a 3.900 LSD on my Brat and it is very useful on the rallycross circuit.

While you're at it, check the rear diff. If it's a late enough '88 to be considered an '89, you might be lucky enough to find an LSD on this one. That would be a real find.

Morning Session: Production, Production GT, Truck/SUV Afternoon Session: Group 5, OPEN, Group 2 8am Registration and Tech First car off at around 9:45am See you there.

It's a GREAT price. Just make sure you grab everything. You'll need rotor and hub, caliper and brakeline, AND the backing plate. Keep the hardware too since you never know what you'll drop. Make sure the donor car is a 4WD since the 2WD backing plate and hub are different. Bring some liquid wrench or PB blaster to help with getting the backing plate off. It's a straight swap, take off the old, on with the new. Bleed the brakes and you're set to go. Just be sure to route the brakeline away from the inside of the wheel rim; you wouldn't want to rub a hole into the brakeline.

Try ratty2austin or subiegal. Also Jason at www.1stsubaruparts.com (that's Auburn Subaru; Jason is the chief parts guy and he's not on the Board as far as I know). You could call them on their 800# and ask for him if it's a parts related question.

Glad to hear you're back online Jason. Time to get some sleep!

Another quick and easy visual check would be to remove the underside plastic covering under the steering wheel and follow the cable harness coming from the ignition switch. About 6 to 8 inches from the ignition switch the cable plugs into the main harness with a plastic connector. Usually a white one although I've seen light blue and pink ones. Examine the connector since the main current for the ignition runs through one of the wires in the cable. It's not uncommon on the older cars for that one wire's terminal inside the connector to go bad and not carry the current needed to start the car properly. When that happens, the connection gets hot and the connector starts to turn brown (or black) around that wire. If your connector has started to turn brown, it's pretty easy to splice a suitable guage wire (remember we're carrying a fair amount of current here) around the faulty connector. I've had to do this on enough of the older cars to realize this is a pretty common problem. A faulty terminal here can also cause your intermittant starting problem.

Just another thought. I would think that a bouncy front end is more a sign of weak shocks than springs.

Set of four alloy wheels 4x140 mm in a 14" persuasion if they exist. I'd take 5 if available. Thanks for going through the trouble.