edrach

Kurt, I think you're correct. You're the 2nd person who mentioned Jason. Too bad he's not on the Board anymore and I don't have his number in Aberdeen.

Yes, use starter fluid spray to look for vacuum leaks. Unfortunately, that didn't help me with my Brat engine. One thing I haven't had checked out is the valve adjustment. If one side is adjusted to tightly, it might account for my problem. Have you had the emissions checked? I'll bet it fails big time at idle.

Which side do you need? $30 plus shipping and I can ship you a used one in good condition as a replacement.

Interesting; I have a similar problem with my Brat (EA81 engine). Both cylinders on the drivers side don't contribute to engine power....I can pull both plug wires and the engine runs as before. If I pull just one wire on the passenger side, it dies almost immediately. It also shows up in a failed emissions test----1300 ppm HC at idle, okay at cruise. I've checked compression and it's okay. If there's a vacuum leak, I haven't found it. Car runs a bit rough at idle but runs okay with more rpm. I still get 30 mpg at highway speeds and around 25 when around town.

The transistor has a Hitachi logo and the two numbers are HF8311 with a 7M1 underneath it. Not really standard numbers as far as I can tell, but hopefully this can help.

I use the cheap NGK plugs ($1 to $2 each depending on whether I get the V-tip or not). I've never had any problems with any NGK plugs I've installed in over 20 years and about a dozen cars (most recently 8 Subarus). Generally, I replace them at 30K miles but they look like they would go longer. I've never felt the urge to spend $5 or more per 'plug.

I have the distributor and ignition coil (with the ignition amplifier) that I pulled off an '88 Turbo at the wrecking yard. If you're interested in it, I'd like to get $40 for the set plus shipping. The number on the distributor is 221200 AA440, D4P86-03 A 7Z04; mechanically the distributor is sound with no wobble/play in the shaft bushing.

It is a weber, but I think the 2 barrel hitachi original is better. This one doesn't have the "poop" of the two barrel weber.

Nice piece of work! This one should go into the archives! Also, the exact resistance isn't critical since the fan goes slow, medium, and fast; it doesn't care about more slow or more medium, etc. You did save a bundle; I believe the assembly is around $70 from the dealer, maybe more. I usually pull them in the wrecking yards but only 1 in 10 is okay enough to pay the $5 for the good one. Plus sometimes they are a pain to pull since moisture gets into some of the small screws and they rust in place. I'm not surprised at the resistors glowing; I do think the 50 watts is pretty accurate; if the voltage isn't going to the blower, the voltage has to be disappated somehow.

I'm getting 30 mpg on the highway at 65 to 70; 23 to 26 around town. That's with a weber, 5 speed d/r, and stock 13" wheels and tires. '84 Brat with recently rebuilt engine. I was getting about 3 to 4 mpg less on the old engine.

Try doing a search on this; it's a topic that's been covered numerous times. If I remember correctly the resistors are in the neighborhood of 50 watts; seems about right since the originals are open coils sitting directly in the air flow from the blower.

Glad you could come out; you're right about the mud. I changed the oil on my Brat this weekend and the ENTIRE underside is coated with about 1/2" of mud or more. I'm not sure how I'm going to get rid of that. See you at the next one.

5 speed d/r is the way to go. With that you can have the engine in the power band no matter what speed you might be going. Best deal is to lengthen the drive shaft, but the two piece 5 speed drive shaft is a bolt in but involves mounting the center bearing carrier. You might check with ratty2subaru (Austin) since he has a complete setup to sell...working gearbox, driveshaft, converted shift linkage, and everything else that's needed. Also, the 5 speed seems to be more reliable. I've had four EA81 gearboxes fail over the last few years in 6 different cars; I haven't lost a 5 speed yet (knock on wood).

My Brat with the old engine, weber, and 5 speed dual/range has seen 95 on a flat without a tailwind. Standard tires and 13" alloy wheels.

I've got to go with GD on the DOJ's. DOJ's normally vibrate under acceleration and go quiet when you let off on the gas. I've never had a DOJ click like the CVJ's will. Another thing to look at before you get too involved with this, is to check the tightness of the axle nut(s). If they become loose, all kinds of noises can start to appear; grating noise like a wheel bearing, clicking like with a CVJ, and the noise can come and go when turning. Again the axle nut itself doesn't loosen, the axle can reseat itself if it wasn't properly installed (you have newly replaced axles, right?), but when the axle re-seats it has the effect of taking the load off the castle nut. Very easy to check; re-torque back to 145 ft-lbs (or more; more is okay).

Looking for the past owner of a powder blue '78 Brat which is now in the Lynnwood Pull a Part. Has a canopy and a rectangular white board with the number 50 on it. It was lifted and I suspect someone knows who might have owned it before....maybe Jason? Lots of parts in the back bed as well as an open 3.900 rear diff. Tailgate is pretty good for one that age although it'll be a trick to get it off. Other than that, it looked pretty rough. I pulled the diff that was on it; it's either an LSD:) or a welded rear. In either case, it's saved from the crusher.

For those who looked at the results carefully, you'll notice a Subaru Justy posted best time of day OVERALL!! You think it’s gotta annoy those WRX drivers when they lose to a $500 Justy? Well, watch this: http://www.turbovan.net/pauls_van.mpg And then read this: http://www.turbovan.net/van.html

Someone recently posted a table with disk diameters and spline counts for the various engine models. If I find it, I'll repost it. Found it....EmmCeeBee posted this link: http://www.clutchman.com/HTML/Catalog/Subaru.htm

Mike, send Wayne an email; he doesn't always post all his shots and may have one of you. Also, he wasn't there in time to catch Open class.

Nice pics of qman's Brat: http://www.pdxsports.com/photos/showphoto.asp?folder=200406_rallyx&photo=20040627_2331.jpg http://www.pdxsports.com/photos/showphoto.asp?folder=200406_rallyx&photo=20040627_2406.jpg

Interesting pic. When Jeanne and I were watching Eric's run, we thought that the pylon went over from the mud being thrown up and not from the Brat hitting the pylon. It looks like the photographer caught the moment. http://www.pdxsports.com/photos/showphoto.asp?folder=200406_rallyx&photo=20040627_2345.jpg

And here are the pics from pdxsports: http://www.pdxsports.com/photos/showindex.asp?folder=200406_rallyx Unfortunately, he wasn't there in time to get the Open class runs.

Worth your time to head for Spokane; even here in the Seattle area, the pull a part yards offer them for about $80.

Next event is by NWR SCCA and closer to us Seattle types. Lower entry fee also; even less if you pre-register. http://www.nwr-scca.org/rallycross/July_18_2004.htm