edrach

I don't know what's up, but here it is: Hello everyone, Sorry this is such short notice but the has been a change in the schedule. Group 2 has been moved to the afternoon session Truck/SUV group has been moved to the morning session If you know of anyone I missed, or if you know of anybody planning on attending please help pass the word. Thank You, Julie Anderson SCCA Registrar And from John Nispel: Registration/tech at 0800, first run group at 10. Afternoon when we get to it. Corrected info at website (EXCEPT they still have Truck/SUV running in the afternoon NOT): http://www.nwr-scca.org/rallycross/July_18_2004.htm

In theory it should be okay. When you turn on the ignition, +12vdc gets put directly on your + terminal on the coil. If that 12 volts drops significantly (to 8 volts or less) while turning over the engine it would create your intermittant starting problem. By-passing it with a wire and switch directly from the battery will "cure" the symptom without really correcting the problem but it will tell you where to start looking.

I'm not sure about Rallitek (use that spelling and you should be able to find them) if qman doesn't post a response sooner. Otherwise, richierich has a shop in Portland and his dad has a shop in Vancouver. You couldn't go wrong with any of those three.

The best person to send a weber for rebuild is cameron but he's not doing them anymore. He recently posted his last rebuild on the Board for $180 (shipping included). I think you'd be lucky to find anyone else to re-do your used carbs for less than that. Add that price to your junkyard price plus about $50 for the adapter plate and gaskets and you'll be getting pretty close to the cost of new. You can save quite a bit on the used carbs if you're willing to do the work of rebuilding it yourself. It's just a question of whether you have more time or more money. Either way, it's a worthwhile addition to any of our older models. Here's the link: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18511

So are you coming down to rallycross this weekend or the next one in Portland?

If you can get the check up to me at the Rallycross this weekend, I can make time to deliver the check and pick up your shocks/struts. I'll put them in my beige wagon for delivery down to Portland (I'd like the get the wagon down to you before the end of this month--whether or not I deliver the struts for you). ---Ed---

It starts every time when you pop the clutch? Have someone hold the digital voltmeter leads across the battery when you try to start the car (or see how far the voltage drops on the guage voltmeter when you try to start the car normally). If the voltage drops below 7 to 8 volts there's not enough voltage to fire the ignition. It's an area you haven't looked yet. If the voltage does drop significantly, start checking all the high current wiring to the starter and the ground wires to the battery. After that have the battery checked to see if it can maintain voltage while cranking. Good luck.

Someone was obviously interested in the d/r tranny; as of today it's gone.

Gary, you can find most of the information you need at http://www.nwr-scca.org/rallycross/July_18_2004.htm. Ignore the fact that they haven't listed a starting time, I'm sure they'll update the post now that I've "nudged" them. However, you'll find that morning tech and registration usually opens at 8am. Afternoon tech and registration might be open as early as 11am. The place is small enough you'll have no trouble finding us. I'll be there in the early morning with a blue brat and a camping canopy with all my junk and spares tires and stuff. It'll be pretty obvious where we set up for this. We'll look forward to seeing you.

Oil in the cable; sort of, Caleb has it right. The oil seal in the tranny at the cable output is gone or shot. Oil migrates up the cable and eventually into the speedometer head. Once it's in there, the speedo gets wildly optimistic. Replacing the speedo works for a while IF you clean out the grease/oil in the cable first. Only permanent fix is to ALSO install a new seal at the transmission. I can't tell you how that went although the seal is only about $15 from SOA. Before I installed it in my old GL wagon it was "retired."

What are the consequences of driving with a blown head gasket? Having just gone through an engine on my '84 Brat which was loosing coolent on an increasing basis, I can tell you. The coolent loss will continue to increase. Eventually, the car won't get you home. When you check the oil, it will look like a chocolate milkshake due to the water in the oil. And...this is the really bad part...the engine will have a rod knock. So if you want to avoid a major engine rebuild, address the head gasket problem before the effectiveness of the oil is compromised.

WD-40 just dissolves the glue and you can wipe it off with a rag. There are other solvents like goo-gone and goof-off, but none works as well as WD-40; an it does'nt eat away at the paint or finish!

If you have access to nichrome wire, you could wind your own resistors and have plenty of power dissapation. I just haven't spent the time or effort to follow up on that option.

www.1stsubaruparts.com; this is Auburn Subaru in Auburn, WA. Typical prices are 30% off list; will only sell mail-order at these prices. If you have trouble navigating the website, call the 800# and ask for Jason or anyone in Parts. Excellent folks to deal with. All OEM parts.

700 to 900 is the "official" idle for EA81. However, if you have a/c in your Brat it could be the a/c relay is not kicking in to raise the idle back to normal.

If anyone was planning to lift a gen1 Brat, this is the car to get. Some really good pieces there to salvage and they'd go for a song.

Kurt, I think you're correct. You're the 2nd person who mentioned Jason. Too bad he's not on the Board anymore and I don't have his number in Aberdeen.

Yes, use starter fluid spray to look for vacuum leaks. Unfortunately, that didn't help me with my Brat engine. One thing I haven't had checked out is the valve adjustment. If one side is adjusted to tightly, it might account for my problem. Have you had the emissions checked? I'll bet it fails big time at idle.

Which side do you need? $30 plus shipping and I can ship you a used one in good condition as a replacement.

Interesting; I have a similar problem with my Brat (EA81 engine). Both cylinders on the drivers side don't contribute to engine power....I can pull both plug wires and the engine runs as before. If I pull just one wire on the passenger side, it dies almost immediately. It also shows up in a failed emissions test----1300 ppm HC at idle, okay at cruise. I've checked compression and it's okay. If there's a vacuum leak, I haven't found it. Car runs a bit rough at idle but runs okay with more rpm. I still get 30 mpg at highway speeds and around 25 when around town.

The transistor has a Hitachi logo and the two numbers are HF8311 with a 7M1 underneath it. Not really standard numbers as far as I can tell, but hopefully this can help.

I use the cheap NGK plugs ($1 to $2 each depending on whether I get the V-tip or not). I've never had any problems with any NGK plugs I've installed in over 20 years and about a dozen cars (most recently 8 Subarus). Generally, I replace them at 30K miles but they look like they would go longer. I've never felt the urge to spend $5 or more per 'plug.

I have the distributor and ignition coil (with the ignition amplifier) that I pulled off an '88 Turbo at the wrecking yard. If you're interested in it, I'd like to get $40 for the set plus shipping. The number on the distributor is 221200 AA440, D4P86-03 A 7Z04; mechanically the distributor is sound with no wobble/play in the shaft bushing.

It is a weber, but I think the 2 barrel hitachi original is better. This one doesn't have the "poop" of the two barrel weber.

Nice piece of work! This one should go into the archives! Also, the exact resistance isn't critical since the fan goes slow, medium, and fast; it doesn't care about more slow or more medium, etc. You did save a bundle; I believe the assembly is around $70 from the dealer, maybe more. I usually pull them in the wrecking yards but only 1 in 10 is okay enough to pay the $5 for the good one. Plus sometimes they are a pain to pull since moisture gets into some of the small screws and they rust in place. I'm not surprised at the resistors glowing; I do think the 50 watts is pretty accurate; if the voltage isn't going to the blower, the voltage has to be disappated somehow.