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Just a small correction, it is not illegal to use R12 in a system that was originally built for it. If you can find R12 in this country (you WILL pay dearly for it) you can still use it providing your system is leak free. I'm contemplating heading to Canada to top up the charge on my '91 Legacy. Not for legal reasons, just economic. However, if I alter anything on my system, the R12 becomes illegal.

Another update from Doug: Just a few notes for this weekend's rallycross... For competitors... 1. Show up early to walk to course. 2. Unload your car in your pit area. 3. Tech 4. Drive directly to the grid for Parade (AM session) 5. Register The idea is to reduce congestion in the pit area, and have everyone ready to go right after the driver's meeting. The better we do this, the better the chances are of getting in more runs. See you Sunday! Doug

Back in the "day" when I was actively involved in rallying (in NJ of all places), I had a 510 sedan which I sold to a friend who took it off my hands in spite of the rust. He bondoed and fiberglassed and still got a good three years of hard rallying out of it. He had a large sign painted on it--both sides: Rust Never Sleeps!

I don't think anything has changed last minute, but this came up on the ORG discussion board today: Hello All! I just wanted to remind you about the RallyCross, happening this Sunday, June 27, at the Washington County Fairplex in Hillsboro. Here is the schedule for the different classes: Production GT and Open in the AM session 8:00 AM Registration & Tech Opens 9:00 AM Registration & Tech Closes 9:15 AM Driver's Meeting 9:30 AM Parade Lap 9:45 AM FCO (First Car Out) Production, Group 2, Group 5, AND Truck/SUV in the PM session 11:30AM Registration & Tech Opens 12:30 PM Registration & Tech Closes 1:00 PM Driver's Meeting 1:15 PM Parade Lap 1:30 PM FCO There will also be a food vendor on site, with breakfast and lunch available!! Cost is $25 SCCA members/$30 for non-members. Bring what ya got, run what ya brung! For class information please visit: www.oregonrally.com and follow the links to RallyCross. I hope you all can make it! Matt -- Matt Tabor, Chairman : Oregon Rally Group Oregon Region of the Sports Car Club of America "Sanity calms, but madness is more interesting." - John Russell

If you haven't done so already, think about replacing the rear drums with disks. This should eliminate half of the potential cause for needing to pump up the pedal. After that, eliminate one cause at a time; you likely have more than one thing wrong and a leaky line or caliper is right up there as the culprit.

Take off the upper door panel on the passenger side and either remove the lock assembly or use a mirror and flashlight to read the key code for the lock. (On my old GL wagon it was W935 or something like that). Take that number to any quality locksmith and he'll cut you a key for about $15; after you check it out, have duplicates cut as needed from that key.

Dan, I'll try to drop you a PM later tonight. I might have a solution for you. If you're ancy you might call me on my cellphone. I think carfreak has the number.

When a backflush at the local repair shop costs $50 or so and the kit for a do-it-yourself is around $30, I hate to think what a hot tank job would cost. I think both (back flushing) are self-defeating because they don't help cure the overheating problem and delay saving enough money to actually buy a radiator. Try the local junkyards or Pull a Part yards. I've had pretty decent success finding good radiators there. A quick look inside can get you a fair idea of the corrosion, the fins on the outside shouldn't be bent over, and a label that's still there might indicate a recent replacement before the car became junk. Besides, our PAP yards offer a 30 return warranty; if it doesn't work, bring it back for another or a full refund. Local cost is under $25. You have 7 Pull a Part yards in your area; should be lots of inventory to choose from.

If your alternator failed due to higher than normal output, there's certainly the possibility that the dash lights are burned out. Check your owner's manual for the fuse locations and what they control.

Don't waste your time on radiator flushes. A missing thermostat is an indication that someone else had overheating problems before you. Subaru radiators are notorious for failing around 100K miles. The typical symptoms are that the car will run warmer the faster you go. Temp guage at center or just below is typical. If your temp goes higher as highway speeds go up, it's pretty much due to an inefficient radiator. Before you replace it make sure the water pump is okay and that the fan is turning on properly. A radiator can be had for about $120 or less (GL models) and is quite easy to replace.

I did the same thing to my Datsun 510 on a rally many years ago. My prevention after that was to replace the fan with a viscous clutch fan from a 240Z. After that, if the fan hit water, it would stop spinning until things were dry again.

It appears to be common. I've heard of this on a few older 2.2L engines. I don't have a fix for you, but is it possible to just replace the pulley without removing the old key; even if you might have to file its width dow to where it belongs? Then properly torque down the pulley nut. This failure occurs when the nut is improperly tightened.

PM me with an address if you really need one, I've got a collection of them.

Prices are excellent for the non-adjustable ones; I don't have a comparison on the gas adjust version. I couldn't find a listing for the Brat in the truck section, but I suspect the early GL 4WD wagon uses the same shock.

So what class would a Brat with a weber run in? Aside from Novice of course.

Matt, this is hi-jacked from your earlier emissions post where you mentioned not knowing what your timing might be. Since no one's gone there for the last week, I'll drag it over to this thread. Matt, I have two flywheels in the garage currently--an EA81 and an EA82. The timing marks are only 4 degrees different between the two. If you insist, I can look at them and see whether that's advanced or retarded. That should get your timing close enough to run and then you can adjust it "by ear" to eliminate pinging.

GD, I've often wondered about the oil burning on emissions. We used to own a '83 Mazda which burned oil to the tune of a quart every 500 miles (you could see it in the exhaust). It passed emissions!! I was told by the emissions guy that the test sees gasoline produced HCs but not oil produced HCs. I really don't know how, but I thought I'd pass this on.

The higher standard might be due to the age of the car. Older cars get higher standards. Also, after 20 years (I believe) emissions testing is no longer required. Only two more years to wait for my Brat.

Matt, sometime you need to show me how you enter photos and such into your posts.

A request from ORG, volunteers needed. Help needed Task: setting up a RallyCross course When: Saturday, June 26 Where: Washington County Fairgrounds, Hillsboro, OR Time: 12:00 noon Duration: estimate 3 hours, depends on number of volunteers (more volunteers, quicker it can be done!) Do you compete at RallyCross? Do you enjoy motorsports? Do you have nothing to do on the afternoon of June 26th? COME LEND A HAND If you can volunteer, please contact: Doug Heredos Email: doug.heredos@verizon.net Phone: 503-709-0937 If you're interested in attending or competing at the actual RallyCross event: Event Date: Sunday, June 27 Where: Washington County Fairgrounds, Hillsboro, OR (across Cornell Rd from the Hillsboro Airport) More Info: www.oregonrally.com click on the "27" on the June calendar Gloria Gloria Hale Oregon Region SCCA/Rally Division Volunteer Coordinator volunteers@oregonrally.com (503) 635-6330 (home) (503) 709-6240 (cell)

Matt, I have two flywheels in the garage currently--an EA81 and an EA82. The timing marks are only 4 degrees different between the two. If you insist, I can look at them and see whether that's advanced or retarded. That should get your timing close enough to run and then you can adjust it "by ear" to eliminate pinging.

By the way you should post the results of the emissions testing along with the year and model of your car/engine. That way others can guage whether a weber will work for them.

So did you tell him about the emissions guru? By the way, is Warren back yet? Glad to hear you passed. Got to love them Weber carbs.

I found that I had to find an '88 clutch cable to go with my '88 5 speed D/R; the original 4 speed cable wouldn't adjust the clutch properly. Jerry, I have the EA82 flywheel and clutch assembly; seems to work just fine. I didn't notice if you put the lock washers under the starter motor.

A tip: set the timing and idle at 700 to 800 rpm with the vac. advance dis-engaged and the hose plugged. When you're done with that set the idle to 800 to 1000 rpm; even though you didn't fail at idle, the higher the idle the more likely you are to pass at idle. Nextly, does your vacuum advance work? If not, it should be fixed; I don't know if that affects CO or not, but it should be working. Fix the thermo switch on the fan. An the cat should be hot as possible although I think that only affects HCs. No air filter would help if your air filter is dirty. What does the slip the emissions place gave you say about what to look at for CO failures?