edrach

Turbone helped me do the dash replacement on my '84 Brat. It is time consuming; I think I remember it taking the better part of a Saturday....about 8 hours to remove the old and install the new.

It won't be a problem if you double box the tail-lights; but it might be better to ship separately since Rob would pay an inordinate amout of the ship unless we split it 10%-90%. Drop me a PM with the LSD costs and I can guess the shipping pretty well.

Such a deal, Rob. I'm more interested in the cost of the LSD before shipping as yet. It comes out pretty easy providing you can get under the car; four small bolts on the drive shaft, two roll pins each axle, very large bolt in the top front and two nuts in the rear (thru the mustache bar). Hopefully the axles aren't rusted to the stub axles.

The 4WD connector and switch is coming out of the tranny in the top center portion; I believe the backup light switch is further to the rear of the tranny. The Lo switch is mounted on the 4WD lever near the base. I haven't figured out the wire colors or which connector goes where, but my back-up lights work properly. Next time I crawl under there, I'll try to figure it out some more and post wire colors.

No problem with the beer or two along with slow shipping costs. Drop me a PM with the total costs. Thanks.

Check the rear differential; if it's a LSD type what do you want for it shipped to 98052.

A place where rust is rampant but not normally noticeable is under the rear quarter panel where the exhaust pipe exits--look under the car and up--exhaust gases can really do a job here. Next look under the floor mats. Check the axles for torn boots or a loud clicking noise during slow full lock turns (in both directions). If a manual gearbox check all gears (and reverse) and find a dirt field where you can check out the 4WD functions. Find baccaruda (search the members section) and see if he'll advise you; he's been around a while and knows the cars pretty well. If you have a repair shop you trust spend $100 for a "used car check" before you buy; a good investment if you plan to keep the car for a while or it'll be your daily driver. Good luck.

I'm with Ken; go see Brian's in Burien first. If that doesn't work for you, a weber can be had for considerably less than $900!! There's one currently on the Board for $200 and retail from Carbs Unlimited in Fife, WA is about $375 and Bow Wow in Lynnwood is slightly less than that. Good luck.

I'm too lazy to go through 4 pages of posts, but has anyone suggested checking the clutch adjustment? Not enough pedal play will result in not dis-engaging the clutch completely and cause crunching; since reverse is the lowest gear ratio it will crunch earliest; as the adjustment goes out more, 1st gear will start to crunch also. I can't believe it's good for the gearbox. Check the adjustment and get it done if it needs it. Easy to do if you've never done it. It'll take you 5 minutes or less. Also, as far as Redline is concerned, I'm using 75W-90NS in my Brat; the NS should help the old synchos work better in the forward gears. (PS: If you have a hydraulic actuator, I'm not sure if there's an adjustment).

Ken, you might contact the photographer. He didn't post any pics of Eric's car in his initial offering and I wrote him and asked if he had any of our car; as you can see he had six! I suspect he has more pics of your runs.

Got these pics of Eric's Brat (he and I shared the runs). Last six pics are at this past weekend's rallycross. http://usmb.net/gallery/album106?page=4

If it was yellow it lives on the Sammamish Plateau.

Usually takes ORG about a week to 10 days to post results on their website: http://www.oregonrally.com/

Just a possibility that the castle nut has come loose. Makes the same noise as a bearing. Tighten to 145 ft-lb or more if you find it loose and see if the noise goes away before you tackle a bearing replacement.

If you want to see more pics, send a request to Wayne; he has others that he didn't post. He had 6 of my son's Brat since we both shared the ride.

Thanks Mark for your help and alternator last Saturday. We were driving my son's Brat down to the rallycross when Matt noticed the idiot lights on the dash glowing (always a bad sign). By the time we were approaching Olympia the wipers were very slow and sluggish. Luckily Mark was home and offered us a used--and working--alternator along with tools (I had the tools but they were packed away in the back). Fifteen minutes and a jump start later (again from Mark's parts) and we were on our way again to Portland.

Fronts or rears or both? Even if it's both axles, $540 sounds high to me. Rears are a little more difficult but not that much.

Not surprised mudrat won open; he looked very fast going by my worker station; one of the few who didn't take out the two cones that half the field did until the course dried out a bit.

Local group sweeps Truck/SUV class!! Erach 1st in '82 Brat (not me, my son Eric) Shawn from Rallitek 2nd in Attack Baja qman 3rd in Attack Brat 84soob 4th in '84 Brat (strange, 3 out of 4 in the top finishers were painted black; I wonder if I should paint my blue brat). Yours truly somewhere in the back of the pack; just can't keep up with the young bucs, but I still had a ball. The course laid out by Paul Eklund was great.....long and lots of sweeping turns.....it did favor power if you knew what to do with it, but driver skill worked too if you didn't. I know there were lots of others there XSNRG and Zap and mudrat and flowmastered, and bajavwsubnut and superallyvovo and others; I just don't remember how they fared (short term memory is the 2nd thing to go, you know). Check out http://www.pdxsports.com/photos/showindex.asp?folder=200405_rallyx for pics. See *_8942 for qman at speed on 2nd page (is there air under that right front wheel?). I think it's Matt in *_8770 on page one in Jason's wagon. Is that Shawn in the Rallitek Attack Baja (*_8821 on page 2)? Look into the background of *_8580 and you'll see qman's motor home and the some of the Subaru group that aren't running at that time.

Cool, free carfax info is still active!! I just ran a car that I posted in the Marketplace forum.

You were lucky. A lady recently had something similar happen to her here in Washington state. She was badly injured but managed to survive; she'll never be the same (in addition she was blinded). I would report this to the police as a hit and run (which it was) and to my insurance company (if you have comprehensive) as an uninsured driver accident. If the police are sufficiently motivated, they'll find the driver. Good luck with it.

The instructions from HTKYSA are excellent. There are also good hints and such here on the Board. Do a search; I know it's in here. I just noticed you're in Whidbey; take a ferry ride over to the mainland; there are enough people here that would "supervise" your first replacement. If I have the time on a coming weekend, you can do it in my driveway.

My best time is about 35 minutes. However, if the DOJ is rusted to the stubaxle, it can take lots longer. My worst time is 5 hours (frozen DOJ); 2nd worst is the first time I did one--about 3 hours. Most done on EA81 cars.

For the most fun you might have with your clothes on!! Come on out to Hillsboro and have a blast. http://www.oregonrally.com/calendar/calendar.php?op=view&id=131

Go with Philbin; used and working vacuum advance units from a wrecking yard are rare and even if you find one, usually just a few months from failure. Price from Subaru is prohibitive.