edrach

Austin, another way to accomplish that is to have CVaxles of Ocala make you custom axles with the correct inner spline count.

Rick, the next time I see you at the rallycross (May 30th ?), catch up with me and show me how you hooked up the EGR. I cleaned it and it is still there, but it is not hooked up to a vacuum line since I'm not sure where I would pull it from.

Cool, you guys are too crazy!

I'm with caleb on the cresent wrench. I suspect you're not getting enough torque on the nut with a cresent, even if you're standing on it. A 36mm socket with a breaker bar (and maybe a 2 foot extension with a pipe) is a good bet.

Castle nut loosening has nothing to do with the bearings being bad. This happens for one of two reasons: Either there was dirt or goop on the inside of the wheel hub where the axle enters the hub that has worked its way out hence loosening the nut. The other possibility is that the beveled washer wasn't tight and finally seated itself which results in loosening the nut. Thirdly, it might not have been tight enough to start with--145 ft-lbs is a lot, but you can tighten it even more if you like without damage. Oddly enough when it loosens like this, it even sounds like the bearings have gone bad on that side.

Boy, that certainly changes things. Just for laughs, does the vibration still occur when stopped AND the clutch depressed--that would eliminate anything in the tranny as well as the drivetrain which seems to have been eliminated. Perhaps a resonance resulting from a flakey tranny mount or engine mount.

DOJ is double offset joint. This is the inner joint (transmission end) on your front axle; as opposed to the CVJ (constant velocity joint) which is the outboard joint (wheel end). CVJs start to click under hard lock when failing, DOJs tend to vibrate during acceleration and stop when you let off on the gas. Trust me, very classic symptoms. Sometimes the vibration is so bad you think the transmission is about to fall out of the car; sometimes it's so minor, an experienced mechanic won't notice it. If you pulled too hard on the axle during removal and/or it was difficult to get off your old tranny, you could have damaged the DOJ which might be causing your vibration--it doesn't take much.

You might have a totally different issue. If you run the car up to 60mph and then let off on the gas, does the vibration stop? Then if you step on the gas again, does it come back and increase with speed? If that's the case, you have a bad DOJ on one (or both axles). Vibration on acceleration that goes away on trailing throttle is a classic symptom of a bad DOJ. I can't tell you which one, but if you have a torn boot on one side that's most likely the bad one. Good luck. The other possibility is that you actually have a bad transmission; I had that mis-fortune with the first 5 speed that was installed on my Brat. 2nd tranny cleaned that right up. I also forgot to add, I did use a EA82 flywheel and an '88 d/r tranny for my swap.

Dan, get ahold of Jerry's (bratsarus1) upgrade kit and a good 5 speed dual range tranny. You'll never be sorry. The 4 speed is too wide between third and fourth; you wind up either running high rpms in third or too low in fourth. Also highway speeds in fourth are up in the 3500 rpm range. With the 5 speed, you'll always have a gear which will allow the engine to run at it's happiest between 2000 and 3500 rpm. With my 5 speed, 3500 rpm is over 75 mph.

Paul, too bad you're not in Seattle. However, I re-read your post. Whatever are they testing NOx for? I thought that was only a problem for diesel engines and shouldn't even be tested on a gasoline engine. Sorry, shows you how much I don't know on emissions.

Depending on which bolts, but if you don't care about destroying the bolts/nuts, try a dremel tool with an edge cutting disk can cut a bolt or split a nut easily; just remember to wear safety glasses.

I queried the seller on the 390 question. I'm awaiting response. I don't know where he got his minimum shipping price; $147 seems a bit high--perhaps he's taking them to a pack and ship store and paying top dollar to them.

Wish I could be there Jason, but that weekend is dedicated to "homework." We're still playing catchup from selling the old house and moving into this one. Happy Birthday. I'll be thinking of you since we share the same date.

I'm with GD; bad seal in the tranny is a very common problem. Problem is you have to open the tranny to replace the seal. Replace the speedometer and put in a new cable; it'll be a while before the transmission oil with migrate up the new cable and murph your speedo.

Jerry, do you remember my Brat? If I'm not mistaken we used the EA82 flywheel. Is that because I have extra vibration going down the highway? We can eliminate that soon since I've got to pull the engine to replace the head gaskets. Timely piece of information.

Another hint; drop the bid in as late as possible. That way you won't be tempted to bid more that you would have bid without a bidding war. Also, it prevents others from upping your maximum bid. I know, it's called sniping. But I've found that bidding early just seems to increase the desirability of the item and tends to get others interested and bid the stuff up un-necessarily.

www.books4cars.com

There is a white one at the Everett Pull a Part. Rear fenders looked just fine. You'll need a portable sawzall to get it off though; they don't allow cutting torches into the yard.

Do a search of the archives. ASV from the dealer is in the $75 price range if I remember correctly. You can buy the reed switch portion which is the working part for $18 and just replace that portion alone for the repair. I remember that being written up quite well but can't remember the part numbers.

I can't tell what can stay and what can go, but drop me an email if you need to get your car through emissions, legally and with a minimum of cost.

Sounds like the resistor powers the display but the clock is actually running all the time. So much for the theory about the resistor supplying 5V to the clock.

Another vote for www.cvaxles.com. However, they click for a long time. Check the rubber boot it's probably torn; if not, it'll last quite a long time. When my son's roommate lost a front axle, he called and I went out with an old coat hanger and tucked the axle out of the way, put the car in 4WD and drove it home. Fixed it with another junkyard axle.

For me the primary difference is that you no longer have to over-rev in third or lug the engine in fourth. With the 5 speed, there is always a gear that will put you into the power band of the engine. Additionally, on the highway, 500 rpm less at cruising speed is nice too. I'd never go back if I can avoid it.

That is pretty; where did you get him? He looks like a Red Baron to me.

I have a soft spot for blue wagons and Brats also.