edrach

You've got mail.

Discount on Redline or Castrol oil by the case. I've been there before and only don't go more often since the stock seems limited for Subaru stuff. However, Zap is correct in their good follow-up on weber stuff. Interesting turn of events since I tried to get a donation from them for last year's event; I guess I just didn't talk to the right person. They did let me leave our flyers on their counter.

They have a DOT rating of "A" for traction and temperature which is quite good. A 200 for treadwear means they won't last very long. You might have to buy two sets to get any meaningfull longevity out of them.

Brian, welcome to the Board. I'm sure someone here could point you in the right direction with your ABS problem. I would suggest you re-post this on the New Generation forum. You'll likely get more response there. Sorry I couldn't help you with the actual problem; altho I have an older Legacy with ABS I don't have enough experience with that.

This sounds like the smaller 2WD only clutch assembly. Not really such a good deal if you have 4WD.

Seattle PAP's--about $60.

Oddcomp, check with qman on the roof; I'll even bring down the wheel to his house if you come up for the roof.

Thanks for all the replies. This is more entertaining than I thought. I'll give you a call tonight, Ken.

Who sold this '86 GL-10 Turbo sedan to jrach? Car was originally qman's who sold it to you (located near Shoreline, WA) and then was parted out and finally the carcass was sold to jrach sometime in 2003. Car needs to be crushed but we need a title; I'm trying to track down the last owner of record so we can generate a certificate in lieu of title. Contact me at edrach@spamcop.net. Thanks.

Actually, a voltage regulator to dissipate that much current would not have fit on the board. Even the resistor they used is not doing the job since it apparently burns out very consistently. A clear case of poor design.

Thanks Josh. I'll do the search again later--first try came up with > 750 matches. No time to do this right now.

If I remember correctly, Bill Putney published a schematic diagram of the resistor pack. It should be in the archives somewhere. If not I can figure it out and I'll get it posted.

If this discussion gets any longer, it'll be Daylight Savings Time again and there'll be plenty of light!

Palouse Rider, you give me too much credit. I just suggested that it looked like a resister was missing on the board--two large solder pads with nothing between them--a pretty lucky guess as it turned out. You did the hard work of finding a working value and getting it in there. Interesting that it appears to be a pretty common failure.

Inner bolt from the frame is what I meant. Sorry. There's lots of ways to do this as the posts indicate. Cool idea using a steel wire to pull the axle through; very clever.

Nice piece of work. Do you remember the resistor values you used. It's been so long that I didn't think anyone could find those old posts. I haven't even tried to look for them recently.

I've got a '91 Legacy wagon which I'm very fond of. The only thing I don't like about it is the stupid seat belt arrangement that automatically slides into place when the door is closed and the car is started. Has anyone tried to replace that with a later version that is not so cumbersome? Are the belt mounting holes available so I could update it easily?

I helped a friend with this recently. If you know anything about electronics and take the clock apart, you'll see two square pads on the circuit board with nothing between them. The missing part is a fuse/resistor which drops the 13.8V from the car to 5V for the clock. Sometimes it burns out completely and your clock goes dead. My friend replaced it with a resistor and got his clock back. I'll see if he has a value for the resistor he used.

By the way, what are "ed emissions?" Don't tell me the "that's why they call them old farts joke."

Thanks for the link, Rob. The last four times I sold a vehicle I went to the local DOL office and filed the report. It cost me $3.50 to do it but it's worth the piece of mind. I started doing this when I "gave" away an old Mazda GLC instead of sending it to the wrecking yard (it had been in my family for 6 years and all three of my kids learned to drive on it--none of them could seem to break it permanently). I sold it for $1 for a friend of my son's who was desparate for transportation and broke as well. I did mail the report of sale to Olympia, but 3 months later I started getting the parking tickets for it. It seems she had never registered the car in her name and only used it on weekends by buying a temporary 3 day registration every Thursday whenever she needed to use the car!! Anyway, she finally relented and spent $800 to fix the car properly; but still didn't transfer the registration!! Two weeks later, I got a call from the Police since the car had been stolen. It turns out the thief stole it, and was stopped for the expired license tabs and arrested. There is some justice in the world. This girl wouldn't bail the car out of impound so it went up for auction; since I was still the last owner of record the towing company tried to hit me up for towing and storage of over $400. I sent them a copy of my report of sale and never heard from them again. About 3 months later I was driving home from downtown Seattle and saw the car parked on the street--pretty obvious since it was beige in color and had a blue Pull a Part door on one side. I stopped to make sure and met the new owner while I was looking at it. He had picked it up at auction for $20; he said "it was the most reliable car he'd ever driven." For all I know it could still be out there somewhere. Some cars just refuse to die.

Great looking tool, Craig; a fine piece of work. I used to use the nut/washer method also; it's a little slower and sometimes more difficult (depends on the bearings) but it certainly works. I still have the stack of washers that made that method more consistent. Since I picked up the SOA tool off ebay I've been in second heaven. It's so much easier.

See Junkie, another reason to move up North!

EmmCeeBee is correct. Loaded is a nice deal since they come lubed, pre-assembled, and with all the little shim pieces that I always seem to lose when changing pads. Generally, about the same price as calipers and pads separately.

Washington state is much easier on emissions than California. If the car passes the sniffer test, the hood is never raised. However, best of luck anyway. Glad you guys found the problem with the idle.

Look at the lable; if it's lsd, it will say so. Another method is to jack up both rear wheels and put the car on jackstands. Put the car in neutral (engine off of course) and turn one rear wheel in a forward direction. If the other rear turns in the same direction, you have a LSD differential. If it turns in the opposite direction you have a standard open differential.