edrach

I remember lots of discussion regarding oil getting sucked into the air cleaner on the old EZBoard. Anybody remember and links or conclusions?

The relay is mostly the best permanent fix, but you might also check the connector on the cable coming from the ignition switch. the first plastic connector coming out of the ignition switch has one wire for the starter solenoid. On the older cars this connection goes bad and starts to heat up and drops voltage there instead of at the solenoid. You can often see that since the plastic connector turns brown from the heat generated at the connection. Either replace the ignition switch and cable with a newer one from the wrecking yard or splice a wire (heavy guage at least #12 or #10) around the faulty joint.

I'm with Ken on the fuel filters. As old as our cars are, fuel starvation can easily be caused by a clogged filter. Check the simple things first. If that doesn't solve your problem, you can always do the hard things.

I'm fond to fthe Hakkapelliitta NRW all season tires. Very good in the rain (I live near Seattle) and quite good in the snow when I get up into the mountains. Find sizes/dealers at http://www.nokian.com

It might not be the distributor. Let me hunt up my shop manual for you and see if it covers the turbo models.

Most people with PS turn the weber around 180 degrees to clear the pump; needs more finagling with the throttle linkage but it can be done.

Our webers are notoriously bad in cold weather. None, even with proper choke and mixture settings like to idle properly when cold. Mine takes about a minute of driving down the road before it stops stalling; that's about as good as it gets.

I love my Hakki's also. But I can't spell it (seems no one can). It's HAKKAPELIITTA Sorry, I couldn't help myself. As for wear, my son is still driving the Q's I bought 5 seasons ago. Of course they come off in May and on again in November on his '83 GL wagon. Even though they are half worn, they still do the job in the snow. He's a ski-bum and drives up to Stevens Pass every chance he gets. I put all season Hakki's on my Legacy this year because I couldn't see the annual changeover on a car that seldom will see snow.

My '86 GL wagon has 256K and is still going strong. It's ready for new headgaskets and other routine work.

Decisions were apparently made at the last ORG meeting. Just waiting for the formal paperwork. Check the ORG discussion board for the confirmation.

Lots of the older subes around. Jason runs a '76 wagon at RallyCross and there are lots of '80 wagons still on the road. I think Austin's blue wagon is an '80 also. Longest running (i.e. highest mileage) that I'm aware of belongs to your boss at Smart Service. His white Legacy must be pushing 400K by now.

Cool. But it's not really how the Brat is truly classified, it's how it's perceived!!! Anyway, I don't really care at this point. I just want to know what I need to do to optimize my Brat for whatever class it's in. Did the emissions printout indicate SUV also? If so, bring it along just for laughs. I take it the weber passed. It would be nice to publish the results for those who are thinking about a weber and are concerned about passing emissions.

Anyone else having problems with that link, or is it just me?

Posted today: http://pub35.ezboard.com/foregonregionsccafrm17.showMessage?topicID=8.topic

Pull a Part replacement is the least expensive fix; besides their unit is guaranteed for 30 days (keep the receipt). I've never priced an VR for an alternator, but I'll bet it's quite a bit more than $8.50. Brushes should be done as mentioned. Also, is there a significant amount of oil in the engine compartment and on the alternator? I don't know what the cause is, but I've had similar failures on three different cars when the alternator was covered in oil.

This is similar to the problem of keeping the hub from turning at the wrecking yard when the brakes are inoperative and one is trying to remove the castlenut to get at the axle or the hub. I had a friend weld a 2 foot pipe onto an old steel wheel rim (tangent to the diametet). I would attach the rim to the hub and the pipe would keep the hub from turning while I used a 3 foot extension on my breaker bar to loosen the castle nut. As Dr. RX said, it's not easy, but it can be done. If you like I could post a jpg. of my "special" tool for nut removal.

Front wheel bearing noise can often be caused by a loose castle nut on the axle. Check that it's tight before you go through the effort of replacing the front bearings.

Found this on the website tonight: Official policy/rules/clarifications for RallyCross are in the works. They will be posted to the website when they are available.

I believe Austin has done that in the Brat he's trying to sell.

This might sound dumb, but I have to ask. The two holes in the axle are different. One hole has a slight bevel on the outside and the other doesn't. Always drive the pin out from the un-bevelled side and when replacing the pin, drive it in from the bevelled hole. Trying to go the other way almost always fails.

Oops. Sorry. It's not quite as intuitive as I had hoped. Thanks again.

Thanks Brian. If I could figure this out, it has to be easy.

Disconnect the spark from the distributor first. You don't actually want the engine to start.

Sounds like something is basically wrong there. I've never had a car that would allow 2" of freeplay much less disengage so suddenly. If Schucks' rebuild shaved too much off the flywheel that would certainly account for your symptoms.

I've had a '91 Legacy wagon now for 7 months. I bought it with 98K from the 2nd owner. It just turned 114k this past week. I have had just minor problems with it: Passenger side door lock control--replaced it. Automatic antenna wasn't working when I got it--replaced it. Installed aftermarket radio to replace stock unit. Replaced tires with all season Hakkapollitta. Set of 14" alloys from qman. So far all I've needed to do has been to replace the oil and filter at regular intervals. Previous owner was meticulous in keeping up the routine maintenance and had the records to prove it so I know when the major services need to be done.