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Everything posted by edrach
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Oregon Rally Group Rallyx meeting 11/19
edrach replied to edrach's topic in Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
Really depends how the discussion and voting went last night. Unfortunately, I couldn't go and my only source had to leave before they actually voted on the classes. -
I don't understand why you're trying to put brushes into a distributor--alternator, but not distributor. There's an outfit in Portland, OR that will rebuild your distributor for about $35 (I think that's labor). Search the Board for Philbin.
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Here is a dumb question from me even lol
edrach replied to bajavwnsoobnut's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Jason, why are you looking for bigger, wider tires? Bigger is not always better. On snow and ice, narrower tires are a significant advantage. I'm not an expert on tires for RallyCross but I'd look into what works best on your car and on the varied conditions that you might encounter. When I first started running with an older wagon, I found I got my best runs with a "normal" set of 175/70-13 Hakki's; then I found they weren't legal in Production and went to other tires. Ask around in the rally circles; try the two guys who seem to win consistently in Production with their Justys. I'm certainly not the expert here but I'm not convinced the wider is better theory applies here. -
I'm thinking of getting help sorting, getting rid of, giving away old Sube stuff and computer stuff. Some of the better stuff I might like to get money for but most of it will be given away since I don't have the room for it at our new house (warning--I'm an unbelievable pack-rat). Looking at the first Saturday after the New Year (provided it's not New Year's Day or the day after). Woodinville, WA---most of you locals know where I live. I'm not firm on this yet, but I'd like to know who's interested. Pizza and Pop will be available.
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If you have the patience and a dremel tool you can do what my youngest son did with his '83 wagon. He took out the heater control panel and moved it down to where the radio console was (needed an extra long cable from another wreck to reach the extra distance on one side). This left plenty of room for an EA82 style radio mounting bezel. He'll finish as soon as he figures out the speaker wiring.
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Did you say you already replaced both axles? Does the sound go away when you let off on the gas and come back when you step on it? If so, that's characteristic of the DOJ (inner joint) on the axle. I've had some that were so bad I thought the transmission was falling out of the car. A re-built axle cured it just fine. It wouldn't be the first time I've gotten a rebuilt axle with a bad DOJ.
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PM sent. Good luck with your new computer. ---ed---
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Smokes only when you hit the gas hard. Sounds like it pumps a bit too much gas when you hit the throttle. If there's an accelerator pump on your carb, adjust the delivery back a bit. General Disorder (sorry to heist this post): There's a green gen1 Brat up here in Bothell on my way to work. It's been there for quite a while; I'll see if the guy is interested in selling it. ---Ed---
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Kendall LSD gear oil works just fine. I use the Redline 75-90W NS in the transmission for the same reason as 84SOOB (minimizes synchro crunch). Brian you've got to find a cheaper source for your Redline--I bought a case of the 75-90W NS for $8/qt. a while back.
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muffed tire....wintermaster plus....attention EDRACH
edrach replied to harpua's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I thought I might have gotten it from Tires Plus (now Big O Tires) if the Wintermaster is a Cooper tire. If not, then Les Schwab is a good bet. -
Car Audio Info Needed
edrach replied to Killer Chewbacca's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
My '84 Brat is the same as your wagon and I installed a set of 2-1/2" round speakers from Blaupunkt (got them at Frye's). I installed them when I replaced the entire dash (thanks for the help to Turbone). Miles is correct about the right side speaker, but I don't know how you could replace the left side without removing the entire dash. GD is correct about rewiring the speakers to eliminate the common ground wiring. -
people with webers chime in
edrach replied to archemitis's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Not sure of the jets; I ran what it came with. Performance (i.e. low end torque is definitely up) altho it runs out of "poop" at about 5000 rpm (could be my engine--EA81 with over 180K miles on it). No fuel regulator since the fuel pump doesn't put out more than 3 psi when new and who knows what I have now. Top speed improved to about 95 for my Brat (was around 85 with the Hitachi) and cruising speed was easier to maintain with the Weber (also have the 5 speed d/r range transmission) and I'm running stock 13" wheels and tires. Gas mileage increased from 22 highway to 27 highway even with the more spirited driving. According to my emissions guru, I should have no problem passing WA state emissions as it runs now. -
There's a dealer list at http://www.nokian.com. Or take a weekend in Canada and import them yourselves. The website claims the 1's and 10's are no longer available and have been replaced by the Q (studless winter tire) and NRW (all season studless) and WR (studdable). The Q's and NRW's are awesome. The site is a bit awkward to navigate, but be patient and you'll find what you're looking for.
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If you lived out here I'd say it's a keeper. Not too difficult to find the parts you need out here at the local Pull a Part yards. Don't let the timing belt issue cloud your judgement; finding a replacement car that didn't need timing belt replacement soon isn't that easy. Sorry for your bad luck and best of luck with it. Wait for moosens to respond to your post; he's reasonably close to you (in CT) and could offer a better insight into what's available and costs.
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Not an uncommon problem. Remove the seat and get the carpeting out of the way. Drill a hole in the rear portion of the raised rib and then install a large bolt, large flat washer, lock washer and nut (locktite wouldn't hurt either) to hold the seat in place. It's awkward to keep then nut from turning when tightening the bolt, but it's easier than welding if you don't have the welding equipment.
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I think it has to do with Rotary Club membership. However, that's a pure guess.
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While on the way to Greenwater on the HP Christmas tree run I spotted the following sign. I stopped on the return trip and took the following pics. Thanks to Corky for the webspace. http://corkysrocks.net/brat1.jpg http://corkysrocks.net/bratsign.jpg
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You can find a list of dealers for the Hakki's at http://www.nokian.com. Unfortunately the Hakki 1's and 10's are discontinued (the 10's without studs would make a great rallyx tire). However, the Q's and NRW's are an excellent replacement. If you don't get the all season tires, DO invest in a second set of wheels. I used to run the Q's from November to late April and then change over to my summer tires. Here in Seattle, it's hardly worth it to get studs so I prefer the newer studless Hakki's. Alias20035's comments about studs versus studless are right on. Boy, it's been a while since I've been to their website. Whoever does it for them should be shot! Last years website layout was much better, more intuitive, and easier to find information about tires. Also didn't have the stupid mpg's.
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I'm really quite fond of the Hakki's; I have a set of the studless all season tires on my Brat with over two years of year round use and they were still quite capable of getting more than enough traction on this past weekend's HP Christmas tree outing. I haven't found the Hakki's to be any more expensive than a quality tire but it does help to shop around among dealers. I've also used the Toyo Observe and found it to be quite excellent and somewhat lower cost than the Hakki's. I'm currently running a set of the all season Hakki's on my Legacy but haven't seen any real snow to speak of with that car as yet.