edrach

Donny, sorry for the mis-information. Unfortunately, they don't announce the entire field and I heard the wrong thing. I'm looking for the final results but it will be a while before they're posted.

It was another outstanding event. Morning and afternoon sessions took a Loooooong time since it was raining off and on and some of the runs were in the 7 minute and up range! Rain finally let up for the late afternoon when the truck/SUV and production classes ran. Times for the better cars were in the low 1:40's range. Since the course had dried up, the dreaded Durango managed a well deserved win in that class (as much as I hate to say it). However, Mudrat posted a strong 2nd place in his first rallycross with his '82 Brat. He was followed by my son, Eric, in his '82 Brat. Flowmastered was 4th and baja......subenut (sorry Jason, someday I'll learn to spell it all) was 5th in the '77 wagon (I think). I was somewhere in the placing among the next seven (mostly Brats and GL wagons). XSYNRG was 2nd in the PGT class with his RX and young co-driving son! It looks like the Oregon and Washington group will field a class of about 10 cars in next year's series (tripling the earlier size of the truck/suv class). A weird happening with one of the Durango's on the last turn of the course (a high speed sweeping left-hander) when the Durango did an instant 180 turnabout. Not the normal doughnut associated with that type of action, but absolutely instant. Turns out from some of the people who were watching closely, the rear wheels locked and started to turn in the reverse direction causing the spin. Speculative opinion was that the computer that monitors wheel spin (sort of a traction control device) found a condition not to its liking and caused the rear wheels to lock and reverse while the car was moving forward. Try explaining that one to the Dodge service manager and getting it fixed under warranty! :dead:

Beat you to it Matt! Regards, ---Ed---

I'll re-iterate a previous post: On 6th Ave. South in south Seattle (near the Spokane St exit from Interstate 5) right next to the emissions testing place, you'll see a van parked in the side street with a sign--"$39.95 and you'll pass emissions or you don't pay." He is good to his word; I have run more than a dozen "beaters" through him and he's always come through. The few times he couldn't get it working it was because of a defective part. For example, an old Honda Prelude didn't pass and I brought to him. In 15 seconds, he told me he couldn't get it to pass. I asked why, and he said the diaphragm in the vacuum advance had a hole in it. He said bring it back with a new advance unit installed and he'll get it tweaked to pass emissions. $50 later (for a new advance unit) and another 15 minutes of adjustments and the car was good to go. His repair lasted for 6 more years (and 3 emissions tests) before we finally sold it. He's state certified and he has a complete sniffer setup in his van. Ask ratty2subaru about him. You won't regret it. And you won't regret having a car that isn't polluting the world. The original post can be found at http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=5127 Apparently this was fixed without going to the place I suggested. Can't hurt to try. Just so you know if you fail the 2nd time, the third re-test IS NOT FREE. So whatever you do, make sure it will pass before you retest.

If I remember correctly, the XT6 alternator was a 90 amp rated unit. All you need to do is change the serpentine pulley to a v-belt version. Everything else hooked up the same.

Qman's suggestion is the best one you'll get. On 6th Ave. South in south Seattle (near the Spokane St exit from Interstate 5) right next to the emissions testing place, you'll see a van parked in the side street with a sign--"$39.95 and you'll pass emissions or you don't pay." He is good to his word; I have run more than a dozen "beaters" through him and he's always come through. The few times he couldn't get it working it was because of a defective part. For example, an old Honda Prelude didn't pass and I brought to him. In 15 seconds, he told me he couldn't get it to pass. I asked why, and he said the diaphragm in the vacuum advance had a hole in it. He said bring it back with a new advance unit installed and he'll get it tweaked to pass emissions. $50 later (for a new advance unit) and another 15 minutes of adjustments and the car was good to go. His repair lasted for 6 more years (and 3 emissions tests) before we finally sold it. He's state certified and he has a complete sniffer setup in his van. Ask ratty2subaru about him. You won't regret it. And you won't regret having a car that isn't polluting the world. Sorry, apparently I mis-read the title about passing the 2nd time. Good work guys!

Thanks Jason. I'll let James know that there's an option.

Mike, is it raining down there yet? I hope so. Anyway, can you find out if it's okay to have 3 drivers for one car at the rallycross? My youngest kid is thinking about coming down to run this weekend and Eric's Brat is not ready yet so we'd all three try to run my Brat. I think I've seen multiple drivers in the past but can't recall if there were more than two.

I'll try to leave Saturday afternoon also but plan on staying in the motel next to the fairgrounds. I hope the rain we're getting here is falling in Portland.

I'll be there! Looking forward to it; might be interesting if it rains all this week.....the course needs to be softened a bit.

Russ, I'll be at Rallycross this coming Sunday. If you (or someone else for you) can be there, I have a set of lug nuts for you.

My '86 GL wagon would get 20 to 26 depending on where I was going. I get about 10% to 20% better mileage with my '91 Legacy wagon (except when I have the air conditioning on). Considering it weighs 500 lbs more, I was surprised. Both were(are) 5 speed manual gearboxes.

WRs and NRWs and Qs are different versions of Nokian snowtires. Qs are full blown studless snows; the others are more of a year-round tire for areas that don't see as much continuous snow. Check their website. For those of you wanting to know about tire width. If you plan on lots of deep snow, narrower tires are the way to go. They have less of a tendency to "ride up" on the snow and get down to the harder surface below. Check out the really skinny tires used by the World Rally Series cars in the winter events; there's a good reason they don't use fat tires.

I was going to do this mod on my 86 wagon but changed my mind (procrastination more than anything else). What you need is to go to a wrecking yard and get the entire lamp housing for both sides off a DL wagon along with the receptacles for the sealed beam units. After that it's just a matter of installing the new housings and rewiring the headlamps to accept the extra sealed beam units. I sold my pieces to baccaruda and you might ask him how it went. I think I might still have another set of dl housings if you need them.

Snow tires of choice among rallyists are made by Hakkipollitta (SP?). If the Finns can't make a decent snow tire, no one can. I prefer the type Q studless snows here in Seattle. But the WRs are a good all around (yearround) tire. See http://www.nokian.com.

Someone had also posted a pic of the LSD label; it's quite obvious. Also, if the car has all the wheels off the ground in the wrecking yard, you can check for LSD capability by rotating one rear wheel clockwise; if the other wheel rotates in the same direction, it's an LSD rear; if in the opposite direction it's an open differential. Good luck.

Here they are: http://www.oregonrally.com/?page=results Lots of USMB members dominating their class!

Ask my youngest kid, James. He can tell you all about them. $80 sounds too cheap to me. I think his hotmail addy is jrachner@hotmail.com. Sounds to me like you're driving the wagon too hard!! I got around that problem by driving the last two miles before my home like a little old lady; cooled the Turbo off very nicely without the aggravation and cost of installing a timer.

Having pulled my first axle from a '91 Legacy wagon and I was amazed how much easier it is than the older GL/Loyale models. No more horsing the stub axle out of the wheel bearings! Gotta love it!

You might find split boots at Oregon Drive Axle in Tigard. They do an excellent rebuild and might just change out the boot (with a real one) if you bring them the axle. I don't recommend the split boot; they are a real pain to do and really don't last more than 5K miles anyway. Once you have the axle out, you can replace the inner and outer boots with "real" ones (DOJ end comes off and then you can do both boots properly).

I go down to my local parts store (B&B chain here in Washington state) and they have a tester. I've gotten to know the staff well enough that they let me test them myself. Their guys often don't put the ground clamp on properly and the module will test bad both at low and high rpm then. I have a few tested spares if you need one (not free but I'll accept offers).

Yes I will be going to the next one on Oct. 12th. I wouldn't miss it. Need to get my monthly dose of adrenalin!! I'll be driving up the night before and staying over at the motel next to the course.

Make sure the castle nut is tight on the front axles. They have been known to come loose (ask me why) and make a noise similar to a bad bearing or scraping brake parts. If it's loose, tighten it to 145 ft-lbs or more.

Sorry, home computer is down. I'll call you today.

Sorry, I was already there two weeks ago.