edrach

I'll be there! Looking forward to it; might be interesting if it rains all this week.....the course needs to be softened a bit.

Russ, I'll be at Rallycross this coming Sunday. If you (or someone else for you) can be there, I have a set of lug nuts for you.

My '86 GL wagon would get 20 to 26 depending on where I was going. I get about 10% to 20% better mileage with my '91 Legacy wagon (except when I have the air conditioning on). Considering it weighs 500 lbs more, I was surprised. Both were(are) 5 speed manual gearboxes.

WRs and NRWs and Qs are different versions of Nokian snowtires. Qs are full blown studless snows; the others are more of a year-round tire for areas that don't see as much continuous snow. Check their website. For those of you wanting to know about tire width. If you plan on lots of deep snow, narrower tires are the way to go. They have less of a tendency to "ride up" on the snow and get down to the harder surface below. Check out the really skinny tires used by the World Rally Series cars in the winter events; there's a good reason they don't use fat tires.

I was going to do this mod on my 86 wagon but changed my mind (procrastination more than anything else). What you need is to go to a wrecking yard and get the entire lamp housing for both sides off a DL wagon along with the receptacles for the sealed beam units. After that it's just a matter of installing the new housings and rewiring the headlamps to accept the extra sealed beam units. I sold my pieces to baccaruda and you might ask him how it went. I think I might still have another set of dl housings if you need them.

Snow tires of choice among rallyists are made by Hakkipollitta (SP?). If the Finns can't make a decent snow tire, no one can. I prefer the type Q studless snows here in Seattle. But the WRs are a good all around (yearround) tire. See http://www.nokian.com.

Someone had also posted a pic of the LSD label; it's quite obvious. Also, if the car has all the wheels off the ground in the wrecking yard, you can check for LSD capability by rotating one rear wheel clockwise; if the other wheel rotates in the same direction, it's an LSD rear; if in the opposite direction it's an open differential. Good luck.

Here they are: http://www.oregonrally.com/?page=results Lots of USMB members dominating their class!

Ask my youngest kid, James. He can tell you all about them. $80 sounds too cheap to me. I think his hotmail addy is jrachner@hotmail.com. Sounds to me like you're driving the wagon too hard!! I got around that problem by driving the last two miles before my home like a little old lady; cooled the Turbo off very nicely without the aggravation and cost of installing a timer.

Having pulled my first axle from a '91 Legacy wagon and I was amazed how much easier it is than the older GL/Loyale models. No more horsing the stub axle out of the wheel bearings! Gotta love it!

You might find split boots at Oregon Drive Axle in Tigard. They do an excellent rebuild and might just change out the boot (with a real one) if you bring them the axle. I don't recommend the split boot; they are a real pain to do and really don't last more than 5K miles anyway. Once you have the axle out, you can replace the inner and outer boots with "real" ones (DOJ end comes off and then you can do both boots properly).

I go down to my local parts store (B&B chain here in Washington state) and they have a tester. I've gotten to know the staff well enough that they let me test them myself. Their guys often don't put the ground clamp on properly and the module will test bad both at low and high rpm then. I have a few tested spares if you need one (not free but I'll accept offers).

Yes I will be going to the next one on Oct. 12th. I wouldn't miss it. Need to get my monthly dose of adrenalin!! I'll be driving up the night before and staying over at the motel next to the course.

Make sure the castle nut is tight on the front axles. They have been known to come loose (ask me why) and make a noise similar to a bad bearing or scraping brake parts. If it's loose, tighten it to 145 ft-lbs or more.

Sorry, home computer is down. I'll call you today.

Sorry, I was already there two weeks ago.

Next one is Oct. 12th; same location.

Cool. Sorry, Mike, but I couldn't remember where you had placed. I'm waiting for the results to be posted but it will be a few days (weeks?).

Just a comment. A battery discharging overnight really has nothing to do with the alternator unless it's not charging the battery in the first place or the alternator has an internal short. A higher output alternator will not solve this problem.

XT6 alternator is 90A; EA 81 is 55A and EA82 is 60A. Put an ammeter in series with your battery with ignition off; current draw should be close to zero (in the low milli-amp area). If it is 1/2 amp or more, start disconnecting fuses one at time and see where the current draw drops to near zero--that'll be the area where you need to look to solve the discharging problem. If you find that there is no apparent current draw with the ignition off, you may have a battery that just will not hold a charge; unusual, but it happens.

Eric Zap took 1st Open with times that included a best time of day overall at 1:48 and change. Truck/SUV was won by Luke Ebert (Gen1 Brat), with my oldest son Eric in 2nd right behind him(Gen2 Brat). Jason Neal took 3rd in that class('77 wagon!). I was somewhere down in the dregs of 7th or 8th out of the 12 car field. Qman brought his immaculate Hatch and posted some fine times. Course was quite slick at the beginning and times got better as the moisture dried off.

Galen, if the u-joints came with zirk fittings, be sure to grease them. My driveshaft came with fittings but no grease. Luckily I decided to see how hard if was to grease them. Was I surprised when I only saw my own grease come out of the joints.

One of the small pleasures of living in the NW (besides the scenery, great climate (if you can stand the rain), is the fact that they don't use salt!!! Only thing I've every seen put onto the snow and ice is sand. Results in some strange sights. I came out here and saw a 1956 VW beetle during the first few months I lived here. Also, most cars wind up in Pull a Part because of emissions failures, accidents, and just plain age. Very few have any appreciable rust on them.

http://www.oregonrally.com/calendar/calendar.php?op=view&id=83

Is it a two barrel weber? The single barrel Carter-weber is not worth a lot. If it came off a '85 GL make sure you get the adapter plate and throttle linkage pieces. The dual barrel weber with fit on either the EA81 or EA82 manifolds.