edrach

I agree with the previous comments, but would also point out that brake calipers might be larger on the newer cars and older rims might not clear. I'm really not familiar with the newer models but thought I'd throw caliper clearance into consideration.

Usually the first sign of overcharging (aside from the volts gauge) is the headlight lowbeams start to burn out (after the 2nd one in two days I took the hint when it happened to me:eek:). However, overvoltage can fry the ECU, any light bulbs, and who knows what else. A suggestion on u-pull-it alternators (I do this all the time): Knowing my original alternator is still good, I replace it with the junkyard one; if it fails within a week or two, I can bring it back for exchange or refund; and I still have a known good alternator (the original). If it doesn't fail, I leave it on the car, mark the original as "known good" and keep it for a spare. I can cycle junkyard parts into my car and know they are okay rather than find out when I need it that it wasn't any good to start with (when it's too late to return it:mad:).

If I bring the brat (most likely); I can bring your tree back. I might even be transporting the one for James. Come to think of it; might just be the same tree!

Don't let others tell you what you should do with your Brat. You're doing fine. That's a tall project but keep at it and you'll get her done. As to making your pics smaller, open them with Microsoft Paint, click on Image, then Stretch/Skew, enter the size you want (you're at 100 to start/ I usually go to 35 for both vertical and horizontal) and re-name the smaller image and save. Not elegant (and there are better ways to do it) but Paint is free and works for me for the few times I want to reduce the size of jpg.

Hey Austin, 'looking for more posts on your Phoenix waterwagon trip.

I'm in! We're not going for a tree, just the friends and fun.

I'm sure if you search the USMB, someone has already second sourced the bulbs. I know the older model bulb types have been posted. The alternative is to pull the bad bulb and try Radio Shack, Vetco (in Bellevue), and lastly Digi-Key (mail order) or Mouser (mail order). Once you know the manufacturer number, it'll be easy to get.

Good luck replacing the light in the climate control panel, a real PITA job.

You mean longevity record? Two years is nothing, we've had our Impreza for at least 6 years, one brat for six, and the other brat (which I just sold back to Zap) for over 9 years. I bought my son's other brat this year since it's been in the family now for over 10 years. But if you mean, is the Forester the most recently manufactured of all our cars, yes it is.

My wife's Forester is a '99. We've had it now for almost two years I think.

Cool, best of luck with it. Give me a call sometime and I can fill you in on some useful information now that you're back in the fold.

Pull a Part in Arlington, WA (exit 206 off I-5 and head east for about 2 miles; it's on your left; if you get to the railroad tracks you missed it).

I should think the non rotation of the tires caused 50% of the damage to the center diff. Mounting the wrong size after that just compounded the problem.

grossgary makes a good case and argument. I can only speak for our experience with our '99 forester with the 5MT. We bought it used with 110K miles on it and the carfax we ran supported that mileage pretty well. It had four new tires on it when we got it so I couldn't tell what the earlier set looked like. At 125K we started to get the symptoms of torque bind and at 135K I bit the bullet and had the center diff replaced. I did search for about 3 months to find a used, good center diff but had no success so we went with a new one. No telling why the center diff failed. It could have been that the previous owner had the car towed somewhere and the tow company didn't have the smarts to get all four wheels off the ground. Or the previous owner wasn't real conscientious with tire wear/rotation. A moot point since the failure happened.

You asked the question.....the answer is fact. I don't know the cost of failure to adhere to that with an automatic transmission since I don't drive one, but the cost of replacing the center diff in a 5MT transmission is around $600 just for the parts involved. Add to that the cost of the labor (your own--zero--or a shop, up to $500 more or more); a set of tires are cheap by comparison. By way, I have a set of three tires with good tread I can sell you real cheap.

I agree with the last poster....work on the ea81 and use the parts from the '86 to do a 5 speed swap on the older car. Check bratsrus1 for info on the 5 speed swap.

As much as I like the DirtFish concept and drool at the thought of taking it, the cost is currently out of my range. But the Primitive Racing rally school is lots of fun, more cost effective, and worthwhile. If you have a choice do the Primitive thing first, even multiple times if you can.

You might take some ideas from my '97 Impreza (Forester and Impreza are both built on the basic WRX chassis). This is a list of things added or modified to make my Impreza competitive at rallycross events. Sump guard by Primitive Racing, Tigard, OR Rear diff guard by Subaru Rear sway bar from WRX (20mm from a 2002 WRX) Front sway bar from RS Impreza (19mm) Front and rear strut bars from craigslist (any brand will do) JDM 5MT transmission (4.111) JDM limited slip differential (4.111) Rear disk brakes from 93 Legacy wagon (via Pull a Part) Custom stainless steel brakelines Hankook rally tires from Trackside Motorsports, Portland, OR AGX shocks/struts by KYB installed by Superior Import Service, Portland, OR WRX front seats Whiteline Anti-lift kit from Rallitek, Portland, OR Scanguage II from Rallitek, Portland, OR Perfect Power 6 engine management from Rallitek, Portland, OR Competition Brake pads (front and rear) by Primitive Racing, Tigard, OR These improvements were certainly not done in a short period of time, but added over the course of three years as time, money, and opportunity allowed. Good luck with your upgrade.

Nice ride. Glad to hear from you. Sorry to have missed you while you were here. Safe trip home.

This time on KOMO-TV (Seattle) http://www.komonews.com/news/local/105079424.html?tab=video

I think that cable is tied to the battery and the alternator output. I imagine if the cable shorted to ground while the engine was running it would toast your alternator real easily. Glad to hear it was simple. I'm a firm believer in the KISS theory: Keep It Simple Stupid!

You might contact bratsarus1; he sells a conversion kit to install the 5 speed d/r transmission in your Brat. I did that with his help/kit to our '84 Brat many years ago. I'm not sure whether it will support the power of an EJ22 motor.