edrach

http://www.worldofsubaru.com/2010/08/13/world-of-subaru-visits-dirt-fish-rally-school-full-review/

I'm really puzzled here. I checked under the rear passenger side wheel looking for hoses, cannister and whatever else should be there. There are no rubber hoses at all. Everything is metal; the main filler tube and the smaller return line are all one metal piece. Also, no canister, solenoid, etc. that I can see. I'll confirm I have a '97 Impreza L wagon. According to the endlink article, the canister should be located in the rear luggage compartment. I don't see it there either. Lastly, I can't turn off the CEL light for this code. I can clear the code but the CEL won't go off until the third or fourth time the code re-appears and is cleared. Then, after a day or two, the CEL light comes on again and we start the same sequence over again.

Another reason to pay attention to the bevelled holes when installing axles: If you line up the bevelled hole on the stub axle of the transmission with the bevelled hole on the DOJ, it will prevent a problem with the axle being installed 1/2 turn out of alignment.

Drift tool info from the USRM:http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=109567

Check the USRM for directions on removing the axles. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75786 I would suggest you try MWE axles (Colorado firm). There's lots of discussion on rebuilt axle quality; use the search function. I know GD doesn't care which side you knock out the roll pin from, but my experience has been it's easier to knock it out from the unbevelled side. Certainly easier to re-install the rollpin from the bevelled hole side. You'll be able to tell instantly which side is which when you get a closer look at the axle joint.

My son got us into Subarus when he brought home an '82 Brat. He's 6'4" tall. It went to my other son who is 6'2" tall. Now I own it; I'm 5'11''. Talk to qman; I think he's 6'5" and drove a Brat for a while.

I second that opinion on the Primitive Racing skidplate. I've got 4 or 5 seasons of rallycross on mine and it's save my oil pan numberous times.

I was planning on selling it this year. My wife and I decided to keep it. More pics on my photo album: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/album.php?albumid=178

Originally the rallycross was planned to stay off the RAP weekend and scheduled for the Labor Day Sunday. That was found to be impractical, so the two events are reunited on the following weekend. I love it; only thing better than a double rallycross is a TSD/RX weekend.

September rallycross moved off of Labor Day weekend. Now Sept. 12th. http://www.oregonrally.com/rallycross.cfm Combine the weekend with the Rally against Parkinson's on September 11th. http://www.oregonrally.com/Event_Detail.cfm?EventID=614

If you weren't here this weekend you missed a great time. Saturday afternoon was rainy and the wet course proved who had control of their car in slimy conditions. Sunday had a totally different course and fine weather. Congrats to Off Camber Enterprises and ORG for a fine double billing of rallycross events. Nice new venue. Interesting contrast of course layouts. Saturday was very tight and technical. Sunday wide open and fast. Great clash of the super cars in M4 on Sunday afternoon. As we've all come to expect, great timing and scoring from the ORG crew on both days. Thanks to all the workers who came out and let us play! Results posted at www.oregonrally.com.

'97 Impreza L wagon with 5MT transmission (189K on the car) dropped this code on me recently. It will clear, but comes back the next day. I've checked the gas cap and it looks okay; and it's tight. Not sure where we would go from here.

Good job. I don't have a model that uses such a key (oops, maybe my '99 forester); but you should submit this to the USRM forum so the information doesn't get lost.

Not much to go on here but I'll try to give it a go. I'd be surprised if it's a fuse issue. I don't know of a fuse that will allow power (even if only 10V) to the fuel pump when the ignition is off and no voltage when the igition is on. However, it would indicate a poor connection somewhere between the power source for the fuel pump (fuse block or ignition switch). When no current is flowing (fuel pump off) there could be some residual voltage there; as soon as you put a "load" on it by switching on the ignition, that 10V is dropped across the bad contact somewhere along the line and can't get to the fuel pump. Maybe someone has a service manual and can send the wiring diagram showing where the fuel pump gets its power and what connectors are along the way which could use checking/cleaning contacts, etc.

The dealer is correct about the tire size being critical. But unless you have ABS brakes there are no wheel sensors on all four wheels. My '97 Impreza L with 5MT came without ABS (thankfully:)). What kind of readings did you get when you ohm'd out the VSS unit?

Check the VIN plate in the engine compartment for the original transmission number. Look up the number in the transmission listing found in the USRM and it'll give you the original rear diff ratio. Then check the number on the replacement transmission (found on the bell housing near the starter motor) and look up that transmission for the rear diff ratio. Besides that, if you have the incorrect rear diff/transmission combination, you would certainly know it when driving. Whine is not one of the symptoms. Your 96 Impreza likely came with a 3.900 rear diff. It's pretty likely that the replacement from a '95 Legacy is also a 3.900.

Battery is only active when starting the car. Once it's started, all the electrical needs should be supplied by your alternator. While you are at Autozone, have them check the alternator output also.

Check out the OLD USRM forum. I'm pretty sure those links are still intact. Yup, install pics are still there; just follow all the links to the weber install section.

I'm interested. Can you scan the bulletin and send it to me (edrach@spamcop.net). Maybe copy and paste it into the USRM for future reference. I'm glad it fixed your car's electrical problem.

Title says '90 so it's a '90. It's not unusual for FUJI to start building the next model year cars in the last three months of the previous year.

I'd think about fixing the turbo; exhaust leak might be the reason it doesn't spool up. It's a killer car if you get it running.

Welcome. Come home safe. Lots of people on the 'site for info and help. I'm glad you found us.

Is that Dale who owns the shop in Hillsboro across from the private school? Great person to do this work for youl.

On-line registration has been set up: http://www.motorsportreg.com/index.cfm/event/event.advert/uidEvent/D2BD3F75-B56A-2059-8668EFE8FC3778B9

From your earlier post, I'll assume you have a Brat. Is it manual or automatic transmission? Socket you need is a 22mm. Might as well get one since it'll come in handy. You should be able to turn the engine over with a 22mm socket and breaker bar provided you are in neutral (make sure the ignition is off or battery is dis-connected). I'm with the bad terminals on the battery. Then the battery itself; is it fully charged? Glad to see you have a copy of HTKYSA. Great book for a new owner that's not too mechanically experienced. More suggestions iavailable f you have eliminated the battery and terminals as being the problem.