edrach

Hello, Please share the Chehalis RallyCross event info below. Thank you, -Rebecca >>>>>>>>>>>>>> Chehalis RallyCross August 7th and 8th at the intersection of Jackson Highway and Maurin Rd in Chehalis, WA http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&gl=us&g=Hillsboro,+Oregon+97124&q=+Jackson+Highway+and+Maurin+Rd+in+Chehalis,+WA&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Jackson+Hwy+%26+Maurin+Rd,+Chehalis,+Lewis,+Washington+98532&z=16 brought to you by Off Camber Events, Maximillian Motorsports, and the Oregon Rally Group sanctioned by SCCA Saturday August 7th RallyCross to benefit the Children's Hospital Morning Session - AWD tech and registration 8-9am drivers meeting 9:15am -parade lap immediately after Afternoon Session - 2WD tech and registration noon-1pm drivers meeting 1:15pm -parade lap immediately after Sunday August 8th ORG RallyCross #5 (season points event) Morning Session - 2WD tech and registration 8-9am drivers meeting 9:15am -parade lap immediately after Afternoon Session - AWD tech and registration noon-1pm drivers meeting 1:15pm -parade lap immediately after ****************************************************************************** ****************************************************************************** http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/getForecast?query=Chehalis, WA&wuSelect=WEATHER

From the MRT newsletter: Subaru Impreza WRX STI sedan sets Nürburgring record The new Model Year 2011 Impreza WRX STI sedan has achieved Subaru’s fastest-ever lap time at Germany’s famed Nürburgring racetrack. Four-time World Rally Champion Tommi Mäkinen recorded a time of seven minutes, 55 seconds – four seconds faster than Subaru’s previous best time, set in 2004. Fuji Heavy Industries Ltd. (FHI), the manufacturer of Subaru cars, has released footage of Mäkinen’s drive on the Subaru Global website,or Subaru Australia’s website or here. Subaru has been using the world’s toughest Nordschleife course at the Nürburgring since 1992, for advanced research and development, plus tests of the Impreza WRX and WRX STI models. Major changes to the MY11 Impreza WRX STI include chassis and suspension set-up. Tests at the Nürburgring demonstrated the supreme overall dynamics and linear behaviour. Tommi Mäkinen said: “The car was controllable with precise and faithful handling even on tricky corners. I could easily predict the car’s behaviour. That is exactly what Subaru is offering: confidence.” Technical changes to the four-door Impreza WRX STI will also be carried over to the five-door hatchback model. The revised Impreza WRX STI, including sedan variants, goes on sale in Australia in the last quarter of the year. Read more... Source: Subaru Global

25 year old Hitachi carburetor? Wait for the weber before you spend too much money trying to fix the Hitachi. Have you checked the timing and the vacuum advance?

Congrats to cfwdfw for his 1st place finish in PA class. A repeat performance for him since he did that last year also.

Okay; that's certainly a better reason.

By the way, I think your fan is working because you might have had a large air bubble in the coolant. Probably around where the thermal switch is located and it never got hot enough to trigger the fan to turn on. Adding water probably was all you needed for that fix.

Those plastic things are not like the ASVs in my Brat. I think they are something else entirely. Let me get my HTKYSA book out and look.

Actally, adding them to most cars; but this is a fine discussion from the Dirty Impreza board. I thought some of us might find it useful. It's pretty clear and other issues are discussed in the thread. http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6365

This was a really good tip from the old USRM and should be incorporated into the new USRM (if it's not there already). Credit should go to the original poster and not to me. http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/AirSuction/airsuctionvalve.htm

Weird dish shaped things. Most people eliminate them when they add a weber, but if you need to replace them (staying stock for a bit), they are called air suction valves (or ASV for short). They are pricey little devils if you can get them at all; something like $60 each. However, if you buy the newer versions for about $15 each, open them up and put the reed valves from the new ones into the old ASV housing, you can get them working for less than $30 or so. If I remember correctly, there's a write up on that in the USRM. That does explain the high HC reading at cruise, since the ASVs are supposed to recirculate the exhaust gases back through the carb and burn up the residual HC before it goes to the catalytic converter. This is the best thread for the ASV info that I could find: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2569&highlight=Air+Suction+Valve Even better link from the Old USRM: http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/AirSuction/airsuctionvalve.htm

GD is right on the money with all that information. No probleme with either disty and a weber.

Small world indeed. This is a related incident altho not related to USMB so pardon me while I hi-jack Brian's thread. My oldest son, Eric is a computer geek who worked for Microsoft at one time with the original tech support group for Win95. Well, during the course of one of his support calls with someone in Wilmington, DE (remember Eric is living in Woodinville, WA and working in Redmond), Eric tells him he used to live there. Long story, short---the person Eric was working with went to school with him in Wilimington and was one of his best friends. Cool world this super technology era we live in.

For starters, go with dino oil. You're just trying to clean out the engine right now. I'm a real fan of the Chevron oil; available almost anywhere and much less expensive than synthetic. I used to be a fan of Castrol, but dropped it in favor of the Chevron when I found it burned off faster in my older cars. I like to stay away from Pennzoil. Oil is always a personal choice, but I have a real problem dropping synthetic into an engine that was built before synthetic oils became poplular. Start with the distributor cap and rotor for now. You can always use it later if you find you need to replace the distributor. Subaru installed two makes of distributor: Hitachi and Nippon Denso. I don't think there's a real difference, but I've always felt the Hitachi version was the better of the two. Seems simpler to me (but that's probably because I'm used to them as opposed to the ND version).

Okay, that clarifies that point.

Having been there also (my Impreza was stolen 2 years ago) I can understand how you feel. Enjoy getting it back especially in good condition and without the tow company getting involved.

Another thought. You've obviously registered the car already since you're driving it on the road. When does your registration come up for renewal? Since it's a 1986, if the renewal comes up late enough in the year you might not even have to pass emissions. Check out paragraph 15 of the RCW pertaining to vehicles exempt from emissions testing. Check your VIN# plate for the month and year of manufacture. http://apps.leg.wa.gov/WAC/default.aspx?cite=173-422-170

What makes you think that you'll have to spend that much to get a waiver? So you're running 4X the limit on CO2; what makes you think a mixture adjustment won't get it to pass? Show him your inspection sheet and ask him what he thinks may be required to make it pass emissions. He'll give you a more reasonable answer than the guy who will require you to spend $150. Also, note that the $39.95 will go toward meeting the $150 minimum.

I keep getting asked this enough times that I thought I'd post up here: This guy is an independent state certified emissions specialist. He's managed to get every beater I've brought to him to pass for his minimum rate. He had a "if you don't pass, you don't pay policy" and I think that's still in force. Too many shops out there get you to spend the $150 minimum (or more) without a clue as to whether it will really solve your emissions issues (and then sign a paper allowing you to get a waiver if it doesn't pass). His most difficult job was on my '84 Brat with a weber and Delta torque cam. It took him four tries, but it went through on the 4th try; still only cost me $45 plus tax at the time. Here's the information: Certified Mobile Services, Inc. Warren Dyson, Owner 3900 6th Ave. South Seattle, WA 206-227-1263

The shops say you have to pay $150 minimum to get a waiver if you still don't pass. Frankly, if I paid $150 to a shop they'd have to guarantee that I would pass. Anyway, I've never had to pay a shop anything as long as the emissions guru is still there. I stopped off there today (had to pick up some parts in the industrial area of south Seattle) and spoke with Warren. He's still there; he will be there next Monday since I asked him. I will post this in the USRM since I think it's useful information for Seattle area Subaru folk. (I'll drop you a PM with the information). He's changed his sign to prices start at $39.95. You can call him and see if the "guaranteed to pass or you don't pay" is still in effect.

Firstly, check the clutch adjustment. If the clutch doesn't dis-engage completely, it will be hard to get into reverse (and first gear if it's really badly out of adjustment). Secondly, it could be the transmission mount, but the shift linkage could be worn or out of adjustment. If the transmission mount looks okay, go for the linkage bushings or adjustment.

Sounds like a clogged fuel filter to me. Try that first before replacing the distributor. Distributors don't usually fail like you describe.

Welcome to the USMB. You came to the right place. The tick: Usually sticky lifters. Make sure you're not low on oil. Also, try a can of Rislone with the next oil change to clean out the gunk in the engine. I use it with three quarts of 20W-50 the first time and then switch back to 10W-30 or 10W-40 without the Rislone for the next oil change. Occasional dying: Change the fuel filter. Not the vapor separator (although you should change that also if it hasn't been done for a while), but the fuel filter which is mounted on a plate under the car near the gas tank. This guy is often forgotten and can be the cause of the car dying and then re-starting okay after a short time. Find a copy of How to Keep Your Subaru Alive (2nd edition). A bit quirky but useful for a first-time owner of an early EA81 Subaru. There's a pdf version floating around the USMB, but I prefer a hard copy version. After that, a better manual is the Factory Service Manual re-write by Robert Bentley. It covers early Subarus up to 1984 but there's little differernce between '84 and your '85. I can get you an ISBN number on the Bentley manual. Ebay or Amazon is a good source for both the HTKYSA and Bentley books. Don't spend more than $20 for the HTKYSA and the Bentley book can be pricey (up to $50) and is worth it; I was fortunate and scored mine for under $20 a few years ago. Clicking axles: A cheap fix is to try and find a decent set in a junkyard; all the early EA81 cars are the same for all practical purposes. A pull a part yard is great for learning what NOT to do with your car. Practice in removing an axle is usefull and if you break something, you can go to another car in the yard. MWE in Colorado is the best source for rebuilt axles (Search). A bit daunting to do your first one, but there a decent write-up in the USRM. Ignition lock: Find a similar EA81 in the junkyard and pull the ignition lock (maybe the entire steering column if it's easier) and the door locks for both doors. The door lock on the passenger side will have the keycode and most decent locksmiths (some dealers) will be able to cut you a master key that will fit both doors and ignition. After that you can cut duplicates more cheaply.

PM sent with number. He's legit. A number of Seattle area USMB members besides myself have used him in the past. I just hope he's still there. With the new cars going to OBDII, his available work opportunity is going away slowly. You really have nothing to lose, since he doesn't charge if the car doesn't pass. And he's honest about it too; he can tell you up front if it will make it or not since his sniffer still works. First time I went to him I had an old Mazda GLC (I know...hisss). Anyway I brought my Haynes manual since I noticed most of his business was American cars. I drove in, popped the hood and he had me start the car. And he listened to it for about 10 seconds and told me he couldn't fix it. Then he said "You have a bad vacuum advance. Go to Mazda and buy one for $40 and install it and bring it back and I'll adjust it so it passes." I asked him how he knew it was bad. "You can hear it has a hole in the diaphragm. Put your ear next to it; you can hear it go shh, shh, shh." I bought an advance mechanism, installed it, brought it back. He adjusted the timing, mixture, and sent me through. Car passed just fine. I paid my $40 and said thank you. This was just the first of many beaters that he managed to get through emissions for me. Another member brought him an early EA81 which had two burned valves on one side. "Can't fix that for you until you get a valve job." He wrote up an estimate of repair for a valve job and told him to apply for a waiver so he could drive it around until he had it fixed. Most shops want you to spend the money to fix it first and then if it fails again, you can get a waiver. Actually, the law isn't written quite that way. You can get a waiver with an estimate of repair. He's there most days except Mondays when he goes fishing. Since he works on Saturdays, he takes Sunday and Monday off for his weekend.

Don't spend $150 tweaking your car to pass emissions. If you go to the emissions testing place on 6th Avenue South (industrial area in south Seattle) just south of Spokane St. you'll find a Van parked just south of the emissions testing lanes. He has a sign on the roof "Pass emissions or you don't pay". Last time I used him he was charging $45 plus tax. He has an emissions sniffer in the Van and is a state certified emissions specialist. He's gotten more of my beaters to pass emissions than I have fingers and toes. If he can't get it to pass, he can write you out a waiver form I believe. No point in spending $150 when less than $50 will do the trick. Good luck.

Seattle is within 100 miles. Lots of USMB folk within 100 miles of Cle Elum.