edrach

Weird dish shaped things. Most people eliminate them when they add a weber, but if you need to replace them (staying stock for a bit), they are called air suction valves (or ASV for short). They are pricey little devils if you can get them at all; something like $60 each. However, if you buy the newer versions for about $15 each, open them up and put the reed valves from the new ones into the old ASV housing, you can get them working for less than $30 or so. If I remember correctly, there's a write up on that in the USRM. That does explain the high HC reading at cruise, since the ASVs are supposed to recirculate the exhaust gases back through the carb and burn up the residual HC before it goes to the catalytic converter. This is the best thread for the ASV info that I could find: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2569&highlight=Air+Suction+Valve Even better link from the Old USRM: http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/AirSuction/airsuctionvalve.htm

GD is right on the money with all that information. No probleme with either disty and a weber.

Small world indeed. This is a related incident altho not related to USMB so pardon me while I hi-jack Brian's thread. My oldest son, Eric is a computer geek who worked for Microsoft at one time with the original tech support group for Win95. Well, during the course of one of his support calls with someone in Wilmington, DE (remember Eric is living in Woodinville, WA and working in Redmond), Eric tells him he used to live there. Long story, short---the person Eric was working with went to school with him in Wilimington and was one of his best friends. Cool world this super technology era we live in.

For starters, go with dino oil. You're just trying to clean out the engine right now. I'm a real fan of the Chevron oil; available almost anywhere and much less expensive than synthetic. I used to be a fan of Castrol, but dropped it in favor of the Chevron when I found it burned off faster in my older cars. I like to stay away from Pennzoil. Oil is always a personal choice, but I have a real problem dropping synthetic into an engine that was built before synthetic oils became poplular. Start with the distributor cap and rotor for now. You can always use it later if you find you need to replace the distributor. Subaru installed two makes of distributor: Hitachi and Nippon Denso. I don't think there's a real difference, but I've always felt the Hitachi version was the better of the two. Seems simpler to me (but that's probably because I'm used to them as opposed to the ND version).

Okay, that clarifies that point.

Having been there also (my Impreza was stolen 2 years ago) I can understand how you feel. Enjoy getting it back especially in good condition and without the tow company getting involved.

Another thought. You've obviously registered the car already since you're driving it on the road. When does your registration come up for renewal? Since it's a 1986, if the renewal comes up late enough in the year you might not even have to pass emissions. Check out paragraph 15 of the RCW pertaining to vehicles exempt from emissions testing. Check your VIN# plate for the month and year of manufacture. http://apps.leg.wa.gov/WAC/default.aspx?cite=173-422-170

What makes you think that you'll have to spend that much to get a waiver? So you're running 4X the limit on CO2; what makes you think a mixture adjustment won't get it to pass? Show him your inspection sheet and ask him what he thinks may be required to make it pass emissions. He'll give you a more reasonable answer than the guy who will require you to spend $150. Also, note that the $39.95 will go toward meeting the $150 minimum.

I keep getting asked this enough times that I thought I'd post up here: This guy is an independent state certified emissions specialist. He's managed to get every beater I've brought to him to pass for his minimum rate. He had a "if you don't pass, you don't pay policy" and I think that's still in force. Too many shops out there get you to spend the $150 minimum (or more) without a clue as to whether it will really solve your emissions issues (and then sign a paper allowing you to get a waiver if it doesn't pass). His most difficult job was on my '84 Brat with a weber and Delta torque cam. It took him four tries, but it went through on the 4th try; still only cost me $45 plus tax at the time. Here's the information: Certified Mobile Services, Inc. Warren Dyson, Owner 3900 6th Ave. South Seattle, WA 206-227-1263

The shops say you have to pay $150 minimum to get a waiver if you still don't pass. Frankly, if I paid $150 to a shop they'd have to guarantee that I would pass. Anyway, I've never had to pay a shop anything as long as the emissions guru is still there. I stopped off there today (had to pick up some parts in the industrial area of south Seattle) and spoke with Warren. He's still there; he will be there next Monday since I asked him. I will post this in the USRM since I think it's useful information for Seattle area Subaru folk. (I'll drop you a PM with the information). He's changed his sign to prices start at $39.95. You can call him and see if the "guaranteed to pass or you don't pay" is still in effect.

Firstly, check the clutch adjustment. If the clutch doesn't dis-engage completely, it will be hard to get into reverse (and first gear if it's really badly out of adjustment). Secondly, it could be the transmission mount, but the shift linkage could be worn or out of adjustment. If the transmission mount looks okay, go for the linkage bushings or adjustment.

Sounds like a clogged fuel filter to me. Try that first before replacing the distributor. Distributors don't usually fail like you describe.

Welcome to the USMB. You came to the right place. The tick: Usually sticky lifters. Make sure you're not low on oil. Also, try a can of Rislone with the next oil change to clean out the gunk in the engine. I use it with three quarts of 20W-50 the first time and then switch back to 10W-30 or 10W-40 without the Rislone for the next oil change. Occasional dying: Change the fuel filter. Not the vapor separator (although you should change that also if it hasn't been done for a while), but the fuel filter which is mounted on a plate under the car near the gas tank. This guy is often forgotten and can be the cause of the car dying and then re-starting okay after a short time. Find a copy of How to Keep Your Subaru Alive (2nd edition). A bit quirky but useful for a first-time owner of an early EA81 Subaru. There's a pdf version floating around the USMB, but I prefer a hard copy version. After that, a better manual is the Factory Service Manual re-write by Robert Bentley. It covers early Subarus up to 1984 but there's little differernce between '84 and your '85. I can get you an ISBN number on the Bentley manual. Ebay or Amazon is a good source for both the HTKYSA and Bentley books. Don't spend more than $20 for the HTKYSA and the Bentley book can be pricey (up to $50) and is worth it; I was fortunate and scored mine for under $20 a few years ago. Clicking axles: A cheap fix is to try and find a decent set in a junkyard; all the early EA81 cars are the same for all practical purposes. A pull a part yard is great for learning what NOT to do with your car. Practice in removing an axle is usefull and if you break something, you can go to another car in the yard. MWE in Colorado is the best source for rebuilt axles (Search). A bit daunting to do your first one, but there a decent write-up in the USRM. Ignition lock: Find a similar EA81 in the junkyard and pull the ignition lock (maybe the entire steering column if it's easier) and the door locks for both doors. The door lock on the passenger side will have the keycode and most decent locksmiths (some dealers) will be able to cut you a master key that will fit both doors and ignition. After that you can cut duplicates more cheaply.

PM sent with number. He's legit. A number of Seattle area USMB members besides myself have used him in the past. I just hope he's still there. With the new cars going to OBDII, his available work opportunity is going away slowly. You really have nothing to lose, since he doesn't charge if the car doesn't pass. And he's honest about it too; he can tell you up front if it will make it or not since his sniffer still works. First time I went to him I had an old Mazda GLC (I know...hisss). Anyway I brought my Haynes manual since I noticed most of his business was American cars. I drove in, popped the hood and he had me start the car. And he listened to it for about 10 seconds and told me he couldn't fix it. Then he said "You have a bad vacuum advance. Go to Mazda and buy one for $40 and install it and bring it back and I'll adjust it so it passes." I asked him how he knew it was bad. "You can hear it has a hole in the diaphragm. Put your ear next to it; you can hear it go shh, shh, shh." I bought an advance mechanism, installed it, brought it back. He adjusted the timing, mixture, and sent me through. Car passed just fine. I paid my $40 and said thank you. This was just the first of many beaters that he managed to get through emissions for me. Another member brought him an early EA81 which had two burned valves on one side. "Can't fix that for you until you get a valve job." He wrote up an estimate of repair for a valve job and told him to apply for a waiver so he could drive it around until he had it fixed. Most shops want you to spend the money to fix it first and then if it fails again, you can get a waiver. Actually, the law isn't written quite that way. You can get a waiver with an estimate of repair. He's there most days except Mondays when he goes fishing. Since he works on Saturdays, he takes Sunday and Monday off for his weekend.

Don't spend $150 tweaking your car to pass emissions. If you go to the emissions testing place on 6th Avenue South (industrial area in south Seattle) just south of Spokane St. you'll find a Van parked just south of the emissions testing lanes. He has a sign on the roof "Pass emissions or you don't pay". Last time I used him he was charging $45 plus tax. He has an emissions sniffer in the Van and is a state certified emissions specialist. He's gotten more of my beaters to pass emissions than I have fingers and toes. If he can't get it to pass, he can write you out a waiver form I believe. No point in spending $150 when less than $50 will do the trick. Good luck.

Seattle is within 100 miles. Lots of USMB folk within 100 miles of Cle Elum.

The standard model is a great little car. I bought a new STD in 1985 and it was my daily driver for a number of years. 'Bought it to save on gas since my workplace was 55 miles one way up the local interstate highway. You might try checking the sections of the Repair Manual forum; you might find some useful information there. Another place you might look is the Old Repair Manual. Here's some of the Weber info you might have wanted: http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/subrepair.htm How to Keep Your Subaru Alive. I know GD doesn't care for it, but it's a great beginner's manual for the early Subarus. Ignore the weird pictures (the author had a strange sense of humor). But it's a much better manual than either the Haynes or Chilton manuals. NGK plugs. No actual data, but lots of anecdotal data to keep you away from any other sparkplugs. You'll find almost 100% agreement among those who do their own work that the NGK plugs are the most reliable and trouble-free plugs for the Subaru. Don't ask for trouble by installing those Champions. Install a set of NGKs and sell the Champions on craigslist. EJ conversion. Nice thought but really too much overkill and expense. You can improve your STD by upgrading to a EA81 engine, adding a weber, and upgrading the rear brakes to disks. If you really want to improve it, a 5 speed dual/range transmission along with rear diff to make it a 4WD capable car. Not too difficult to do if you find a 4WD hatch at the local Pull a Part yard. Best of luck with it and welcome to the group.

ORG's combined National/Regional event this coming weekend. http://www.oregonrally.com/rallycross.cfm Looks like reasonable weather: http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/getForecast?query=Hillsboro,%20OR&wuSelect=WEATHER

I had the same question. I wanted better stopping ability for my '97 Impreza wagon (my daily driver as well as my rallycross car) without modifying the brakes or going in for the red, yellow and green racing pads that were out there. I put the question to Paul Eklund at Primitive Racing (http://www.writerguy.com/primitive/) and he supplied me with a set of pads that work very well for me. They wear well without gouging the rotor and stop my car much better than my previous pads. I believe they come from Australia. Price didn't break the bank either.

Thanks, I appreciate the help.

Long story short; I picked up an '82 Brat recently without a title. I did check with WSP and they searched their databases and did NOT come up with a listing as stolen, salvage, etc. So I took my chances and bought it. Car does have a CA title somewhere and my initial search of the CA DMV site with the VIN# came up as not found. I did find it on carfax and that confirmed its CA origin. Also I have a CA license plate with the last tabs which expired in 1997. Anyone from CA know what the procedure is to locate the last registered owner so I can get a "release of interest in lieu of title" or maybe a title. Also, will CA try to get me to pay for all the last 13 years that the car has either not been registered there or moved out of state? Drop me a PM or email. Thanks.

If it's an EJ22 I have used pulleys available. $30 shipped.

Photos sooner the better! Add me to the list of interested parties.

I have to add my favorites: SUBEXTC STIXTC

I found this little tid-bit in the RockAuto newsletter. A little pricier than getting them at your local pull a part yard, but they are NEW! I did find one for under $40 for a '90 Loyale. (I submitted this for the USRM since I thought it would be useful reference info for future use). They should also be available for new gen models. Blowing Air at Only One Speed If the blower motor for the heat and A/C system starts blowing air at only one speed or stops blowing altogether, then there is a good chance that the blower motor resistor has failed. On most cars the blower motor is a simple electrical motor with only two wires coming out of it. The speed of the blower motor and its attached fan is determined by how much electrical current comes through the wire. The resistor(s) in the blower motor resistor act like a valve to control the flow of current to the motor. When the fan switch on the dash is at its lowest setting, then the current is routed through the highest ohm resistance in the blower motor resistor. The resistor uses up most of the current before it gets to the blower motor and the fan turns relatively slowly. Move the switch on the dash to the highest fan speed and typically the current is not routed through the resistor, but goes 100% to the blower motor so the motor and fan operate at maximum speed. This is why blower motors will often operate at top speed even if the blower motor resistor has burned up. The blower motor resistor is usually mounted to the plastic heater case in the dash or under the hood. The blower motor resistor turns the current flowing through it to heat and the air flowing through the heat & A/C system case helps cool it down. The photo is of the very simple blower motor resistor found in my wife’s ’87 Mazda. The maximum resistance and lowest blower motor speed occur when the current is routed to run the full length of the coiled wire resistor before getting sent out to the blower motor. The resistor wire looks like the filament from an incandescent light bulb and it can burn out similar to a filament. Where the resistor wire breaks determines what if any speeds the blower motor will still operate at. Find blower motor resistors for your vehicle by ACDelco, Airtex/Wells, Dorman, Four Seasons, Motorcraft, and Standard Motor Products under "Heat & Air Conditioning" in the RockAuto.com catalog.