edrach

Sadly, in reply #2 from Cincybuckeye, both links mentioned are dead. I hope some of this got into the USRM.

Granted working with the local dealer directly is the quickest way, but the internet discount is significant and more than makes up for shipping costs and a longer wait when time is not an issue.

Just for the record, my '97 Impreza (originally a 3.900) has had a '95 Legacy (4.111 with matching rear), a '96 Legacy (back to the 3.900), and a '95 WRX (JDM with 4.111 again). Why am I going through transmissions so fast you ask. Original car was bought with 120K on the odo and I use it for my DD and rallyX car. All the other transmissions, except the WRX one, came from Pull a Part and had over 125K on them when I pulled them. WRX tranny required the most modification since it was hydraulicly actuated and needed a conversion to cable (new clutch fork and moving the pivot ball for the fork and removing the hydraulic stuff and replacing it with the cable stuff). My suspicion is that almost year from 1991 to 2000 (and maybe later) can be made to fit. By the way, the WRX transmission only had 45K on it when it was installed. It's the sweetest shifting I've seen in the Imp. We'll see how long it lasts. Since this one is a short ratio gearbox I'll likely have it rebuilt if it goes out prematurely.

Only dealer in Seattle area that could cut a key for my Brat was Scarff in Auburn; those people who know me, know that there are 7 dealers closer to me than Auburn. None of them could cut me a key from the VIN or the code. Since then I found a locksmith in Redmond who can cut a key from the key code on the passenger side cylinder for $10.

+1 for both providers mentioned.

Address your ideas to Subarutex.

The PASSENGER side front door lock cylinder has the key code for your car. Any decent locksmith can cut you a new key from the code. The dealer might also; but likely will need the key code since they've tossed the key information for the '80's models long ago.

I read the other post on this and I'm still not clear whether it's the front sensor or the rear (my code reader says rear). For the record, I'm up to 179K on the engine/car.

It's not cold enough this winter in our area, but the weber will ice over badly when it is really cold. Glad you got it fixed quickly.

Anything to worry about. I get this every 4 to 6 weeks on my '97 Impreza. I clear it and it takes another 4 to 6 weeks to come back again. It's an O2 sensor code. Should I be worried?

I have a hardcopy of the weber manual. I should see if I can get it scanned and post a pdf for the 32/36.

Are there one or two wires to the thermal switch (on the side of the radiator)? If one wire, unplug and touch it to ground. If the fan runs strong either the switch or the ground is bad. There should be a small wire connecting the radiator to the frame of the car (on top); if the wire is bad or missing, you have no ground return from the radiator.

+1 on the clutch adjustment. +1 on the wiring leading to the wiper motor. Usually breaks around the hinge joint where the cable is flexed everytime you open and close the hatch. PITA to fix. Don't worry too much about the timing belt for now since you have a non-interference engine. But inspect the belt sometime when you have a chance.

That's usually the first sign of a faulty radiator. If the temp climbs the faster you go on the highway and/or going up hill, that's the typical symptom for the radiator being bad (or too much stuff clogging the airflow through the radiator). I've never found reverse flushing the cooling system to help and just put that money toward a new radiator.

I've had excellent results with Redline 75W-90NS on the older, high mileage cars that I usually drive. Also, I found that the Castrol Synthetic 75W-90 which Subaru suggests is also quite good. My only negative experience I've had was with the Lucas 75W-90 gearoil (non-synthetic) on my old Legacy. Within two weeks of installing it, I was getting synchro crunches shifting into 2nd, 3rd and 4th. Drained the Lucas gearoil and put in the Redline and the gearbox has been quiet ever since (almost a year ago now).

Being a smart rump roast kid is certainly going to get you lots of help here. Good luck with your project.

As much as I hate to disagree with Miles, I don't think the radiator is the issue. A faulty radiator will generally overheat when you're driving down the road; and the faster you go, the hotter the temp display goes. That being said, I'm still with the fan; it either doesn't turn on, spins too slowly to cool the engine, or is blowing in the reverse direction (wires reversed). Go with the fan first since it'll be the least expensive item to fix. If you still want to spend $100 for a radiator after fixing the fan, go for it.

So which Brat is it? A gen1 or gen2 version?Also, do yourself a favor and get it running before you spend big bucks for an engine and find the the body is so rusted it couldn't support the engine.

Sounds like the price is at the high end also; especially since you'll likely be spending another $500 to $1500 for the timiming belt and water pump service. Also, emissions might be an issue since it's going to CA; check the laws regarding that. Earlier poster indicted it's OBDII---as far as I know OBDII did not start until 1997. As a price comparison, I paid $3950 three years ago for a '97 Impreza L wagon with 120K on the odometer (in WA state near Seattle). Check Kelly Blue Book and NADA for a good current price evaluation for the car you're looking to buy.

That link should go into the USRM if it isn't there already.

So have you replaced the alternator yet?

I would go with the fan. If the radiator were not cooling efficiently, you would notice an increase in temperature with increasing speed. The faster you travel the higher the temp would go even though you have sufficient airflow through the radiator. In your case, the engine is generating minimal heat and the fan should kick on when temp gauge is about at 5/8 (just above half way). If the fan does come on, make sure it is blowing air from the front of the car onto the engine. If someone reversed the wires to the fan, it would blow hot engine air into the radiator and cause the engine to appear to overheat. (Sound familiar Miles?).

Check out this link, thanks. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=108674

I would suggest the Robert Bentley version of the 1984 FSM. It's a re-written version of the OEM FSM and covers the Brat, 4WD, and Turbo up to 1984. ISBN # 0-8376-0270-X. In looking through my copy I see it covers the rear seats in the bed of the '84 Brat but couldn't find any other Brat specific information (but I didn't look very hard either). I consider the Bentley version of the FSM an easier read than the original. Certainly much more useful than Haynes or Chilton's. It's a pretty rare book, but you might find it on Amazon or www.books4cars.com. Books4cars might also have the supplements you're looking for. Amazon search by title didn't yield any results, but I found this with the ISBN number: http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/083760270X/ref=dp_olp_used?ie=UTF8&qid=1265559566&sr=1-1&condition=used $14 plus shipping is a steal for a used copy. I hate to tell you what I paid for mine. Books4cars seems to have the supplement you're looking for. They even listed the OEM supplement for the gen1 Brat. http://www.books4cars.com/result1.asp?findmake=Subaru&imageField.x=17&imageField.y=11&offset=50

I went to the ORG/PRG workers' banquet last weekend and ran into Paul Eklund. He gave me a flyer regarding his rally schools. Next three schools are in March (Hillsboro, OR), April (northern California), and then May (Hillsboro, OR). For more information: www.get-primitive.com Click on the Rally School button.