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Also make sure they will be using genuine Subaru parts. You have the extended contract through them so there shouldn't be any question about it. Definitely get an itemized list of parts and such. For your own satisfaction, you want to see the old parts to make sure that critical parts did not go into your "new" engine. The old manifold and electrical parts and such should remain with the car, but any internal parts should be replaced. Good luck with this and your daughter was lucky to buy the extended warranty.

Subaru of America Northwest Region 5216 NE 158th Ave. Portland, OR 97230 503-262-1250 Broken bolt on the tensioner should certainly be a warranty issue even at 61,000 miles. Best of luck persuing this.

Actually, you might be better off converting your cable clutch to hydraulic; it just requires adding more parts to your car. The easier conversion is what I had done since it requires fewer parts.

Speaking of clutch type, hydraulic versus cable. You can with a little effort convert from one to the other. My '97 Impreza has a cable clutch and the transmission I installed came from a '95 WRX (JDM) front clip which used a hydraulic clutch. Long story short, remove the hydraulic stuff from the transmission, replace the clutch fork, move the pivot point for the fork (hole was already in the casting...just needed to tap it and screw in the pivot ball), replace the rear diff and the transmission works just fine. I wanted the 4.111 rear and with the JDM gearbox got the closer ratio gears. I'm a happy camper. I know someone will ask, transmission number is TY752VB3FA.

Yea, someone who actually checked the gear chart. Sadly, not all transmissions are listed and for the life of me, I can't understand how some of them get left out. It's surprising to me that your OBW has a 4.111 rear/gearbox since they were going with the 3.900 during the mid '90's to get better gas consumption. I'd give my eye-teeth to figure out how they assign the letters that identify the transmission. I'm sure it has something to do with the final ratio as well as individual gear ratios, but it's beyond me. Anyone know?

I'd try poking down the drains with a straightened coat hanger wire. You might be able to dis-lodge whatever is down there. Don't try too hard; you don't want to poke a hole in the plastic tubing.

I'm with John on that; the rear diff doesn't fail that often. Need more input.

If you have a manual transmission check the transmission charts in the USRM to see which tranny you have and which rear diffs will fit with it. The chart will also tell you which other models have the rear diff you might need.

Wow, 108K miles; that engine is barely broken in. $1000 for the car is a bit high to my thinking, but worst case on the engine might be $1500 or a little more to repair it. Then you have a 2000 Outback with 108K on it; if it's clean, it should be worth $3500 so you're ahead of the game. Best of luck, whatever you decide.

I'm a bit confused; what's the ratio of the front diff? I hope it matches the rear diff ratio on your XT6.

I would avoid any of the DOHC EJ25s; I'm not sure if they were manufactured 2000 and up.

I know the XT6 hubs have handbrake provisions; I'm just not sure whether it's front or rear. I've got the parts in the Brat waiting to be installed so I can look. I'm just waiting to get an answer to the axle question and deciding what's the best approach to the cross member questions for the subsequent entire EJ swap.

That's the question I have. Are there any axles that fit without getting custom ones made?

I still get the same "not found" message. vBulletin Message Sorry - no matches. Please try some different terms.

I'm a firm believer that the KYB GR-2s are the best bang for the buck. Also they are common enough that one can get them for a decent price if you shop around. As to stiffening up the suspension, find a bone yard model with significantly less miles on it than yours.

And if you are really concerned about it, lock-tite is available in low, medium and high strength. Use the high strength sparingly since it makes the nut or bolt significantly harder to remove when needed.

Link comes up with "no matches."

Another way to order them is to ask for the group N motor/transmission mounts. I've been running them for over a year on my '97 Impreza and they are noticeably noisier than our '99 Forester; but the handling is much more precise and worth the difference to me.

I get most of my alternators from the pull a part yard. Bearings are easy to check before I pull it, then I install it in my car and if it checks good electrically I leave in my car and put my original one on the shelf as my spare. Occasionally, I will take one of my spares/cores to a local rebuilder who I trust. Either way I always have a spare on the shelf. I don't plan on spending $125+ for a rebuild from AZ or Schmucks.

Glad everything is working for you. My apologies for my "less than tactful" last post.

15.6 volts...bad regulator in your alternator. How much more information do you need? Stop going to AZ, obviously they're not hiring qualified people.

I'm with Durania also. By the way, 12.6 amps makes no sense. Your alternator should be capable of over 60 amps of output. But 12.6 volts indicates that the alternator is bad also; should be over 13 volts output. My Impreza shows 13.6 volts once it gets off idle and my Forester is at 14.1. Looks like an alternator problem to me; make sure the belt is sufficiently tight also. Lastly, get your battery on a charger; a discharged battery will deteriorate rapidly no matter how new it is.

You have two temp sensors in your car, one feeds the gauge and the other the ECU to control mixture and such. After engine warm-up, the instrument temp gauge doesn't budge at all, no matter the conditions unless there's an actual issue with the cooling system. I installed a ScanguageII on my Impreza since I wanted to have real-time indication of engine temp, volts, rpm and to monitor CEL codes. I found the temp does vary quite a bit. I can actually see when the thermostat opens to allow more cooling. During regular driving the engine temp varies from a low of 182 degrees to a high of 196. When I'm running rallycrosses in the summer I'll sometimes hit 205 degrees. During all that spread the instrument gauge never moves. I bought the scangauge primarily to have an on-board unit to check and remove CEL codes. But I've found the gauge to be extremely useful in monitoring the cooling and alternator output during everyday driving. It hasn't happened yet, but I suspect I'll get better warning when there's a cooling system failure or alternator failure. Just so no one has to ask about the scangauge accessory, I bought mine through Rallitek. I see from the link that the price has gone down; I paid over $200 for mine a number of years ago. http://search.store.yahoo.net/cgi-bin/nsearch?catalog=yhst-49187380673845&query=scangaugeII&searchsubmit=Go&vwcatalog=yhst-49187380673845&.autodone=http://www.rallitek.com/

Find one in a junkyard and replace the entire thing. Subaru used the same unit over many years and many models. No sense in soldering in a resistor; the wire coil is a very high wattage and low resistance wire. You're not going to find a replacement resistor that will fit and work for you.

I used the thicker Redline (something like 80-120W) at one time for my Impreza. In the summer, it even felt like molasses in the gearbox. I hate to think what heavier gear oil will feel like in cold wether. I'm currently running the Redline 75-90W (not NS because this gearbox only has 60K on it). But it was great even in the cold snap we had back in December when we had evenings in the low teens or less. I know you guys in the mid-west laugh at that, but that's the first time in the 20 years we've lived here that we had the water pipes freeze on us.