edrach

Last minute update.....I'm in! I'll be a little late, but I'll be there.

You're correct; the second one will be easier. This might help: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75786

Sorry I'm so late to come into this thread. Check the USRM for a procedure for doing your axle. It's written up in pretty good detail there. No need to take apart as much as you did, but that's okay. Give me a call and I'll talk you through this which is much easier than typing all day. Anyway, from where you're at, take off the axle nut and put a few more washers on the axle and then re-tight the axle nut again. Repeat that process until the axle is all the way through. I have a set of 8 oversize washers to do exactly that. Since then I've bought an axle install tool off ebay to make life easier.

Replace the cap; use an OEM cap. Even if that doesn't resolve the issue, it's the first thing I would do as a start.

You are correct about the single port versus dual port exhausts.

Well, now you know where to find it in the yard.

Classic symptom for the early EA81 cars. Change the fuel filter; not the one in the engine compartment (altho it wouldn't hurt to change that too), but the one by the fuel pump that everyon forgets is there (driver's side just forward of the rear wheel underneath the car). Before you look for more complicated reasons, change that first; fuel starvation will do it every time.

Probably the same as on my brat and it certainly is a PITA, but it can be done. Easiest way is to remove the driver's seat and get a portable light under there so you can see what you're doing. It does require patience; I couldn't even think about removing the pedal cluster. Good luck with it.

Frank B posted this in the ebay/CL forum: http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Weber-DGV-Carburetor-22680-005/dp/B000JLKZZ0/ref=sr_1_50?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1262269707&sr=8-50

Put me down for a tentative.

Not obsolete; they just no longer carry them. http://www.kybshocksonline.com/SearchResults.aspx?AAIA=1267758

Here's why you don't want to use NADA pricing: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=95709&highlight=Brat+sale+summary+ebay+listings Somewhere back when I was posting info on our '82 Brat during our fight with the insurance company, someone posted a URL to get ebay listings for various cars; I plugged the Brat into the URL and it gave me a summary for ebay sales for the previous three years for the Brat with item number and listing price. If I clicked on the item number, it gave me specific information for that sale. Sadly that info was unavailble if the listing was more than 3 months old. I've been searching for that URL but haven't been able to find it. I did a copy and paste of it and printed out the 3 years of the lists for our case and it might be helpful but it is somewhat out of date. I still have the printed copy and could forward that to you if needed. It would be nice if someone could tweak the search engine to find that URL.

By the way, it's Kirchoff's Law.

I believe that information is on the front/side portion of the diff. All it tells you is the ratio which you can get from the transmission number.

Check out the transmission chart in the USRM for information on the '93 and newer transmissions. The tranny number is on the bellhousing and also on the VIN plate in the engine compartment.

I have the Subaru heavy duty diff guard installed on my '97 Impreza. It is one piece and the rear portion fits between the rear studs and frame (crossmember?). I forgot how it's mounted in the front. In any event it's a pain to mount and/or remove. As an earlier poster mentioned, no label anymore. However, if you have a manual transmission, check the number on the bell housing (also on the engine compartment VIN plate) against the transmission table in the USRM. It won't tell you anything more than the rear end ratio (same as the transmission).

Welcome to this Board Andy. I've seen you over on dirtyImpreza for a while. Maybe we'll meet up at the Hillsboro rallycross; or up north if anyone ever gets something going in Washington. Five speed is well worth it. If you're just going to putter around in the woods and rock crawling, no; but if you plan on longer, highway trips having the 5 speed installed is worth every penny and minute of time you spend on it. Jerry is the man; he installed my 5 speed more than 7 years ago and it's still running great. Nice score on the $150 Brat; that is a steal and a half.

Yes, there is an access hole on the passenger side of the engine just forward of the bell housing at the 9 o'clock position. The largest phillips screw driver that you can get into that hole will allow you to hold the flywheel and keep it from turning. Next question, what are you trying to accomplish? Just removing the crank pulley bolt? There's an easier way to do that. Disable the ignition by removing the wire from the ignitor or coil (depends on what model you have). Take a breaker bar with a 22mm socket on the bolt and turn the engine clock wise until the breaker bar just rests on the driver's side wheel well. Just blip the starter once and the crank pulley bolt will be loose.

It truly is down there. Upper right hand corner way front. It's the round motor housing bolted in with three 10 mm screws if I remember correctly. Blower itself is on the other end of the motor. Just for grins, you DO have a left hand drive car don't you? Can't tell without your location.

Scooby17 is right on. However, if you stick to the EJ22 engine you should be okay for all years that have an EJ22 and avoid the head gasket issue. If the interference engine is an issue for you get an early '96 or earlier.

Subaru has a rebuild kit for the P/S pump (actually two depending on how extensive a rebuild you want to do). Oddly enough, neither kit has a replacement bearing. Apparently that never fails since it is always submerged in fluid. You should check to see that you're not overfilling the reservoir since that will cause it to leak out the cap.

This might be the easiest fix; a bit pricey. http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/pts/1524361507.html

Pillar mount might not be possible; but you can mount the aux pressure gauge most anywhere on the dash. Worst case, you can replace the funky seat belt harnesses with the Canandian version for the same series years. The Canadian version was more sensible and did away with the automatic rail. I replaced both sides of my '91 Legacy seatbelts many years ago. A pricey fix however since the parts and moldings and such cost around $250 Canadian back then.

Another possibility is the connector from the ignition switch into the harness. Usually a pink or white plastic connector about 6 inches from the ignition switch. You'll have to remove some of the plastic shroud under the steering column to see it. The tip off is that if it has a poor connection on one of the wires, it will heat up the plastic and turn that area brown or black. Contact cleaner will likely be a temporary fix; permanent fix is a new cable harness....very cheap at the pull a part yards. Hopefully this is it since it's warmer fixing this than removing the starter and checking the contacts.