edrach

I had good success with a 2nd gear grind in my '91 Legacy when it had around 100K miles on it. I put in the Redline 75W-90NS and in three weeks the grind was gone and stayed gone well past 200K. Old, but still pertainent: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=78245&highlight=Lucas

Jacob, maybe we could have a Brat team. I'm switching to M4 with the Impreza since I hope to have our Brat converted to an EJ18 drivetrain so I'll have to run modified. With luck it might be ready by the summer.

After you replace the bushings, make sure the clutch pedal play is properly adjusted. Lastly, don't use Lucas gearlube; it's terrible (search for my post on that). My suggestion is either use Castrol 75W-90 synthetic (what the dealerships use) or Redline 75W-90NS (NS if your transmission is over 100K miles old). I did the search for you: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=78245&highlight=Lucas

Sparkster! You don't know how much of a drive. Just because the states are smaller back east, doesn't mean that things are that much closer together. I not sure of the exact distances involved, but I would hazard to guess we're talking 6 hours one way. I don't want to rain on your parade but look into this first. Also, there are toll roads back east along with much more prevalant speed checks along the way. Be warned by someone who's lived there. Best of luck on the move.

Is that all? I know you took more pics than that!

Jan 27 ORG General meeting Mar 28 ORG RallyCross #1 Hillsboro, OR Apr 18 ORG RallyCross #2 Hillsboro, OR May 14 - 16 Oregon Trail Rally Hood River, OR and Portland International Raceway May 30 ORG RallyCross #3 Hillsboro, OR Jun 26 - 27 ORG National RallyCross 2010 Hillsboro, OR Jun 27 ORG RallyCross #4 Hillsboro, OR Jul 25 ORG RallyCross #5 Location TBA Aug 8 ORG RallyCross #6 Location TBA Aug 21 - 22 The Road Not Taken Sep 12 ORG RallyCross #7 Hillsboro, OR Oct 10 ORG RallyCross #8 Hillsboro, OR

If you don't want to drill anything pick up 4 to 6 c-clamps (4" size should work fine) and clamp it in to the lip.

Fear not, there will be more. Welcome to WA and the USMB.

Story I got from my brother when he served in the army (don't ask me which war): They were required to take their rifles apart and clean the metal pieces and re-install them. Hours of wire brushing and then cleaning with a solvent. One of the more clever GI's discovered if he dropped the pieces in a jar of warm coca-cola, they were bright and shiny in the morning. True story, I never confirmed it since I don't do guns; but I thought it was interesting.

Are you changing the bulbs; or is the dealer? Halogen bulbs don't like moisture...causes the quartz to crack which then burns out the bulb. Also check for moisture getting into the headlight which could cause the same failure. Cougar's advice on checking the alternator voltage is good. Get a decent voltmeter and check the output of the alternator at 2K and 5K....it should never go above 14.6VDC; anything above that is suspect. Also check the ac voltage for ripple as advised. Lastly, check the voltage at the battery the same way as on the alternator. If anything, the voltages (AC and DC) should be the same or slightly less. The battery acts as a large capacitor on the alternator. If the battery is going bad it might not be filtering the AC out of the alternator current.

Not uncommon for the weber to freeze up on you in this weather. You'll see the frost on the barrel when it's really bad. But feel the barrel by hand and you'll know how cold it gets. The fix is pretty easy. The early EA81s all had a card board plate mounted in front of the carb to keep the cold air from the radiator from causing the carb to freeze up on cold winter mornings. Find a junkyard and get one of the baffles for your car. If needed, drop me a PM with an email and I'll send you a pic of the one in my Brat.

Try Ping Pong. He tells we that he's very good. I'd like a shot at him after I heal up from the surgery.

Best place to get a NEW radiator for your Brat is Spalding Wrecking in Spokane, WA. About $100 plus shipping. Over the years, I've bought three or four for our fleet of EA81 wagons and Brats. Just ignore the ports for the automatic cooling.

Last minute update.....I'm in! I'll be a little late, but I'll be there.

You're correct; the second one will be easier. This might help: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75786

Sorry I'm so late to come into this thread. Check the USRM for a procedure for doing your axle. It's written up in pretty good detail there. No need to take apart as much as you did, but that's okay. Give me a call and I'll talk you through this which is much easier than typing all day. Anyway, from where you're at, take off the axle nut and put a few more washers on the axle and then re-tight the axle nut again. Repeat that process until the axle is all the way through. I have a set of 8 oversize washers to do exactly that. Since then I've bought an axle install tool off ebay to make life easier.

Replace the cap; use an OEM cap. Even if that doesn't resolve the issue, it's the first thing I would do as a start.

You are correct about the single port versus dual port exhausts.

Well, now you know where to find it in the yard.

Classic symptom for the early EA81 cars. Change the fuel filter; not the one in the engine compartment (altho it wouldn't hurt to change that too), but the one by the fuel pump that everyon forgets is there (driver's side just forward of the rear wheel underneath the car). Before you look for more complicated reasons, change that first; fuel starvation will do it every time.

Probably the same as on my brat and it certainly is a PITA, but it can be done. Easiest way is to remove the driver's seat and get a portable light under there so you can see what you're doing. It does require patience; I couldn't even think about removing the pedal cluster. Good luck with it.

Frank B posted this in the ebay/CL forum: http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Weber-DGV-Carburetor-22680-005/dp/B000JLKZZ0/ref=sr_1_50?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1262269707&sr=8-50

Put me down for a tentative.

Not obsolete; they just no longer carry them. http://www.kybshocksonline.com/SearchResults.aspx?AAIA=1267758

Here's why you don't want to use NADA pricing: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=95709&highlight=Brat+sale+summary+ebay+listings Somewhere back when I was posting info on our '82 Brat during our fight with the insurance company, someone posted a URL to get ebay listings for various cars; I plugged the Brat into the URL and it gave me a summary for ebay sales for the previous three years for the Brat with item number and listing price. If I clicked on the item number, it gave me specific information for that sale. Sadly that info was unavailble if the listing was more than 3 months old. I've been searching for that URL but haven't been able to find it. I did a copy and paste of it and printed out the 3 years of the lists for our case and it might be helpful but it is somewhat out of date. I still have the printed copy and could forward that to you if needed. It would be nice if someone could tweak the search engine to find that URL.