edrach

By the way, it's Kirchoff's Law.

I believe that information is on the front/side portion of the diff. All it tells you is the ratio which you can get from the transmission number.

Check out the transmission chart in the USRM for information on the '93 and newer transmissions. The tranny number is on the bellhousing and also on the VIN plate in the engine compartment.

I have the Subaru heavy duty diff guard installed on my '97 Impreza. It is one piece and the rear portion fits between the rear studs and frame (crossmember?). I forgot how it's mounted in the front. In any event it's a pain to mount and/or remove. As an earlier poster mentioned, no label anymore. However, if you have a manual transmission, check the number on the bell housing (also on the engine compartment VIN plate) against the transmission table in the USRM. It won't tell you anything more than the rear end ratio (same as the transmission).

Welcome to this Board Andy. I've seen you over on dirtyImpreza for a while. Maybe we'll meet up at the Hillsboro rallycross; or up north if anyone ever gets something going in Washington. Five speed is well worth it. If you're just going to putter around in the woods and rock crawling, no; but if you plan on longer, highway trips having the 5 speed installed is worth every penny and minute of time you spend on it. Jerry is the man; he installed my 5 speed more than 7 years ago and it's still running great. Nice score on the $150 Brat; that is a steal and a half.

Yes, there is an access hole on the passenger side of the engine just forward of the bell housing at the 9 o'clock position. The largest phillips screw driver that you can get into that hole will allow you to hold the flywheel and keep it from turning. Next question, what are you trying to accomplish? Just removing the crank pulley bolt? There's an easier way to do that. Disable the ignition by removing the wire from the ignitor or coil (depends on what model you have). Take a breaker bar with a 22mm socket on the bolt and turn the engine clock wise until the breaker bar just rests on the driver's side wheel well. Just blip the starter once and the crank pulley bolt will be loose.

It truly is down there. Upper right hand corner way front. It's the round motor housing bolted in with three 10 mm screws if I remember correctly. Blower itself is on the other end of the motor. Just for grins, you DO have a left hand drive car don't you? Can't tell without your location.

Scooby17 is right on. However, if you stick to the EJ22 engine you should be okay for all years that have an EJ22 and avoid the head gasket issue. If the interference engine is an issue for you get an early '96 or earlier.

Subaru has a rebuild kit for the P/S pump (actually two depending on how extensive a rebuild you want to do). Oddly enough, neither kit has a replacement bearing. Apparently that never fails since it is always submerged in fluid. You should check to see that you're not overfilling the reservoir since that will cause it to leak out the cap.

This might be the easiest fix; a bit pricey. http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/pts/1524361507.html

Pillar mount might not be possible; but you can mount the aux pressure gauge most anywhere on the dash. Worst case, you can replace the funky seat belt harnesses with the Canandian version for the same series years. The Canadian version was more sensible and did away with the automatic rail. I replaced both sides of my '91 Legacy seatbelts many years ago. A pricey fix however since the parts and moldings and such cost around $250 Canadian back then.

Another possibility is the connector from the ignition switch into the harness. Usually a pink or white plastic connector about 6 inches from the ignition switch. You'll have to remove some of the plastic shroud under the steering column to see it. The tip off is that if it has a poor connection on one of the wires, it will heat up the plastic and turn that area brown or black. Contact cleaner will likely be a temporary fix; permanent fix is a new cable harness....very cheap at the pull a part yards. Hopefully this is it since it's warmer fixing this than removing the starter and checking the contacts.

Probably the loop on the end of the cable that controls the valve opening on the heater has come undone. A bit of a pain to get to, but if the end isn't broken off, it's an easy fix.

I'm pretty sure I have the low profile version in my spares kit. I don't need to trade but would sell the shorter one for $10 plus postage. If you're interested let me know by PM and I'll check on it.

Taken from the 2010 Rally Calendar (check post #7 for update) ORG 2010 Rallycross Schedule DO CHECK THE ORG WEBSITE FOR UPDATES; I'M SURE THERE WILL BE SOME. 3/21 #1 of 8 Washington County Fairgrounds 4/4 #2 of 8 Washington County Fairgrounds 5/2 #3 of 8 Washington County Fairgrounds 5/29 #4 of 8 Washington County Fairgrounds 6/25 #5 of 8 Washington County Fairgrounds (SCCA/ORG) No July Rallycross scheduled 8/22 #6 of 8 Washington County Fairgrounds 9/19 #7 of 8 Washington County Fairgrounds 10/10 #8 of 8 Venue to be announced

I'm not sure I would be up for such a project, but when I inquired with the dealer at the cost of replacing the separate CD unit with one that has iPod input I almost had a heart attack at the cost. For $150 I bought a new CD/AM-FM tuner with iPod adapter built in (included the wiring harness adapter) and installed the radio myself. I hardly ever use the CD anymore since almost all my music is on my first generation iPod. Installation was easy and I saved almost $300.

Subaru will return in 2010, offering prize money to registered competitors in the three All-Wheel Drive categories. Payouts will be offered to top-three finishers with $300 awarded for a win. Prize money more than doubles at the Eastern and Western States Championships where a win will net $750, and increases once again for the RallyCross National Championship, where Subaru is prepared to award $1,250 for a win in each AWD class. Registration forms and full program details are available at www.scca.com/rally by selecting “Contingencies” from the left-side menu. Drivers are encouraged to review program requirements carefully to ensure full compliance. To be eligible for contingency prizes, drivers must register for each program prior to their first event. More programs will be posted as they become available.

I remember a friend in high school that had a "shorting plug". Whenever he didn't have his homework prepared or wanted to avoid a class, he'd bring the plug with him and find an outlet. He never did get caught. Some people are jsut weird.

Some ancient history here, but it applies to Subaru also. I had a rally prepped Datsun 510 back in Wilmington, DE with the original Hatachi carb. I stopped in at the local dealer (who also owned a raceshop and had a race prepped 510--this was in 1980 or so) and checked if the parts guy had a rebuild kit for the Hitachi carb. The parts guy looked around to make sure no one else was in earshot and suggested I get a weber. When I thought to buy a new Hitachi, he looked me in the eye and said again, "get a weber; the Hitachi comes new with the flat spot built in."So save your pennies and get a weber.

First statement is generally true; maybe most have solid axles, but all the early EA81 4WDs don't have solid axles (unless someone modified it).

As the man said, replace the front axles; the one with the torn boot first. I know nothing about Master axles, but I don't think you can go wrong with MWE. You only need to have to re-do an axle you just replaced and all your initial saving with go out the window with the loss of time in doing the same job a second time. Good luck with it. As to the rear diff, that's the way an "open" diff works; once one wheel starts to spin there's not power to the other one. You can resolve that with a limited slip differental (LSD). Do not go with a VLSD since that won't help you at low speeds.

Odd, I replaced my 3.900 transmission/rear diff with a 4.111 pair in my '97 Impreza. Speedometer error was about 2mph high across the range with both set-ups. So no apparent change with that change. My '97 has a mechanical cable running the speedo/odo.

Do you have a mechanical or electronic display for the odometer? Mechanical is certainly different. Electronic gets VSS pulses from a sender in the transmission which got to the speedometer as well as the ECU.

If you decide to fix it, keep all receipts for parts involved since the state inspection will want to see them to insure that no stolen parts were involved in the repair. We've done this a few times and the inspection is required to re-register the car with the new title. Not a really difficult process.