edrach

Some of the EJ22 and EJ25 engines did not have an EGR. Does the underhood diagram show one? In that case you should have one. I can get you a photo of both the with and without EGR engine.

The early internally regulated alternator has a heavy wire with a ring terminal going back to the positive battery terminal and a plastic "T" shaped receptacle which takes a two wire terminal plug. Almost all of these are interchangeable; the earlier versions are 55A and the later ones are 60A. I have a few of these if you need one; I'd send you a known working one off my Brat to be sure you get a working one.

Welcome to both of you. As to your question, just a short run from Enumclaw to the Greenwater Forest to have some get-together fun and/or a Christmas tree. Here's the link: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=105143

Get used to it; I think Subaru put it some of the 2010 models.

Again, from the MRT (Australia) website. A truly fine and up-to-date article on what all those mysterious numbers on the sidewalls of your tires mean. A great read. http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible.html. Even talks about the dreaded 390 metric sizes.

I found this on the MRT (Australia) website. A truly fine write-up on how transmissions work. http://www.carbibles.com/transmission_bible.html

That'll be cfwdfw (Charlie) in his '99 GT. Cheer him on for us. Get some pictures if you can.

If you're looking for a new box, try the pull a part yard in Tacoma for a suitable donor car; not too far from gig harbor. If they don't have one, head south to the pick a part yard in Olympia; on the way south, try the junkyard in Nisqually...they might have what you're looking for also.

I may have a working starter for you. Used, but working. Let me check and see what I have.

Jumping in late here, but does your vacuum advance work? Most early Brats have a hole in the vacuum advance diaphragm and won't advance the timing properly once you're off idle.

Alternators have voltage regulators; I've never heard of one in the starter motor. Your best bet is to got to Smokey Point Pull a Part yard and grab one for your car. You pull it and pay around $25 plus a small core charge. You have 30 days to return it if it isn't any good. What model & year Subaru and is it automatic or manual tranny? I have a few automatic starters I'd like to get rid of.

If the wheels are Subaru OEM, they should be 55mm offset and that shouldn't be an issue. Often the offset dimensions are stamped or cast into the wheel. If they are aftermarket wheels, there's a good chance they will be 38mm offset which shouldn't be used. If the offset is fine, only mounting the wheel on the front will tell you whether it will clear the brake calipers.

Classic DOJ failure: Clunks, thunks, vibrates; sometimes so bad it feels like the entire transmission is about to fall out. But ONLY under positive throttle; as soon as you let off the gas all the symptoms go away.

So how often are you changing your oil?

Way to go. I'm glad the head gaskets weren't murphed. The orange coolent is okay to use but I changed back to the green version just because of the cost difference and the orange was a bit finicky to use. Just one word of advice, if the owner's manual says to go more than 3000 miles between changes, don't. I tend to change my oil and filter every 2500 miles just for my own peace of mind.

Jamie is a jewel to deal with. You can't find a better person.

That looks like A&A Auto wreckers on Canyon Rd. I hope I didn't screw up the name. They're pretty good to deal with; a bit pricey but when they have what you're looking for, that's okay.

Most likely those years of Subaru sedan, wagon and gen1 Brat.

Give Jason in Parts a call at Mike Scarf Subaru in Auburn, WA. Toll free: 1-866-528-5282, he should be able to help you out. I always call direct since the website is a terror to try to navigate.

So what was the final fix for this? Or is it still waiting?

I'm sure this is a typo, but you'll need a 4.11 rear diff.

I currently have a former WRX ('95 JDM version) transmission in my Impreza. Needed to convert a hydraulic to a cable type. Needed to change the clutch fork, move the pivot ball, remove the hydraulic stuff and install. Works great!

If my older Brat is running by then, I'll look forward to being there.

I can sympathize with you, but it's reality. I've been watching the price of Brats rise for the last 8 years. Currently, there's been a slight dip due to the current state of the economy. Crap or not, that's the way it is.