edrach

http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/index.php/news/article/rally_america_to_launch_european_style_rally_cross_racing_in_2010/

I'm with John on this, definitely replace the bulb first; that's most likely your problem.

Your Forester will have a 4.444 rear; not sure what the final drive is on your current car.

Subaru 5 speed transmissions pretty much interchange over a fairly wide spread of model years. Just watch the rear diff ratio and whether it's a cable or hydraulic clutch (although even that can sometimes be converted). Check out the USRM for transmissions that would suit you. A Forester transmission would probably work just fine for you. Lastly, try to match up engine types (e.g. I wouldn't install a EJ18 transmission in your Outback even if it might fit).

Also, our '82 Brat was valued at $3950 when we sued in small claims court when the insurance company refused to give us more than $1100 for it. Of course we had data to support our claim and the taxi driver who we had to sue (not the insurance company) didn't have any evidence to counter our list of comparables. You can look at it (the gold colored one) in my photo album section. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/album.php?albumid=87

Even rusty ones are fetching $500 to a $1000 if they're in running condition.

http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11225&highlight=Prairie+City http://ohv.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=1221 http://www.formularallyx.com/novemberfest.shtml

I should be there also; even if I'm not getting a tree this year.

I'm pretty sure I have some used cone washers. PM me a mailing address and I'll try to get a few into the post office tomorrow.

Remove the t-top and inspect the corners of the body where the t-top sits. There are two drain holes in each corner. If they clog up, water will find another way to leak into your car. A straightened coat hanger wire is what I used to clear out the ones in my '84 Brat.

Smart that you installed the WRX swaybars; I found that was a must on my rallycross Impreza. Any chance that the wrecked legacy T donor car had a usable 5MT? That would be a smart addition if possible (see my previous post). Don't forget to take the rear diff too if it doesn't match yours.

Well until you get the new engine in, consider switching to 14" rims and tires. I found my '94 was a "stone" with the 16" WRX rims/tires that were installed by the previous owner. When I switched, the car's entire character changed. You might consider getting 14" winter tires; they're cheaper and will give you a noticeable increase in pickup.....especially in the mountains. As to the transmission: that is a weak spot. I now have a '97 model L wagon which is my daily driver and weekend rallycross car. I got it with 120K on it and I'm now on my fourth transmission, 50K miles later. Of course every transmission (except the last) had around 120K on it when I pulled it off a wreck at the Pull a Part yard (I'm a very low budget rallycrosser). But the tranny is a weak spot and will be more so with your turbo engine. I am currently driving a JDM transmission off a front clip imported from Japan that was originally a '95 WRX transmission with 45K on it. It required some modification to install but nothing major and it is so sweet that it's rediculous. I would look for a Forester/Outback transmission or something that came off a beefier engine than yours. Subaru transmissions interchange over a large span of years with no, or just minor modification. Just remember that you likely have a 4.111 rear diff in your car and you'll need to match that up to whatever transmission you install. I'd stick with the 4.111 sets.

I love my scan guage II. Got it as a special request for Christmas two years ago and installed it as soon as I could. Its best feature is the ability to read and reset CEL codes easily; if nothing else this was worth the price. I leave it set to monitor rpm, alternator volts, mph and water temp. MPH can be calibrated to whatever tires I'm using (I switch tires winter/summer). I can see the thermostat open and close when watching the water temp. The alternator voltage will warn me when the alternator is failing BEFORE my battery goes dead. RPM is just cool to have a digital version which is more accurate than the analog meter on the car. I've found that the MPG setting is okay, but I found myself watching that number more than the road so I no longer monitor that for safety reasons. Besides it reads the throttle position and compares it to the speed and calculates MPG that way. I know how much throttle I'm using without a guage to tell me. It has lots of other features that I'm too lazy to read the manual to set. Yes, I got sucked into the special setting required to make it work in my Impreza. Called the place where I got it from and they couldn't tell me why it would shut off every 15 seconds (they shall remain nameless). I called the manufacturer, and their rep pointed me to the right page in the manual pretty quickly after I told him I had a Subaru.

Year-end standing (preliminary) for the ORG rallycross series: http://www.oregonrally.com/files/2009%20Points%20(vertical).pdf Congrats to eurowrx for his 1st in M4 class and cdwdfw for his 3rd in PA. I managed a 5th in PA. Sorry if I didn't mention anyone else, I've got to study the results more closely.

I guess the results are in the order of finish; confusing when a grand total isn't given. But it looks like congrats are in for XSNRG for his first place finish. Nice to see Eklund finish again; 2nd overall, not too shabby.

Only a small portion of this is Subaru related, but I think it could be useful. Only a small portion of this applies to Subaru, but I think it’s useful: http://www.alt-str.com/download/Alternator-Catalog_Reference.pdf Here’s the cross reference list to the above alternators: http://www.alt-str.com/download/Alternator-Reference.pdf Here’s another cross reference list for alternators: http://www.amb2b.com/download/all_alternator_catalog.pdf

This would be a better chart to add to the alternator list; more information. https://content.subarunet.com/snet/_content/fixed_operations/parts_quick_reference_guide/Pg%2068-69.pdf

Yikes, bad enough that the DOJ was a turbo version, but to have the EA81 shaft too is rediculous. I think Tom may have the answer.

Bucky92 covered all the important items. Definitely best to get a '96 or earlier EJ22 since they are non-interference engines; '97 models went to interference heads for some reason. First timing belt change due at 105K; hopefully it was done with new waterpump at the same time. Ask for maintenance records if buying private sale. Torque bind can be an issue but Connie pointed out what to look for there. Back east rust is always an issue.

Oh, that's ugly. Best of luck with the repair. Time to visit the wrecking yards.

When you find the switch on the tranny, unplug it and use a paper clip bent the right way to short the two pins in the plug. If the back-up lights work now (ignition on and engine running), the tranny switch is bad. If the lights still don't work, both bulbs are bad or a broken wire in the harness (if you have a wagon).

I'm glad you corrected that 5.75 offset number. Offset is typically 50 to 55mm on Subaru. 5x100 bolt pattern.

GD has the right idea on this. Count the splines and either they packed a turbo axle in a non-turbo box; or the reman company put the wrong DOJ on the shaft. I've seen it happen (not to me, but someone else helping my son work on his). Generally no damage to either the tranny or the axle; just the roll pin is toast....and an embarassed mechanic. GD is also right about the axle falling off the transmission; that shouldn't happen if the axle was properly installed.

15" alloys and 16" steelies sell for $100 to $150/ set out here on craigslist; less at pull a part yards. If I had a set, I'd ship it to you for $200 shipping included. Keep looking, I'm sure you'll find a reasonably priced set soon.

That's my old beauty. A great car when we owned it and it looks like it's still around.