edrach

Welcome to the site! Nice to have someone local again. I'm in Bothell and anytime you need some assistance or advice on your '86 wagon, drop me a PM with a 'phone number and we can talk about it. I owned an '86 wagon for over 150K miles; sold it with 255K on it about 3 years ago and I believe it's still running.

Googling the p/n number of my Forester's alternator and I ran across this (I know, too much free time on my hands): http://opposedforces.com/parts/forester/us_s10/type_4/engine_electronic/alternator/illustration_2/

I found this by accident googling my alternator p/n to see if I could find the output current. I didn't find that but the production dates for the various models seem useful. https://content.subarunet.com/snet/_content/fixed_operations/parts_quick_reference_guide/Pg%2068-69.pdf

Seriously, nice job with the tonnearu cover. I have one for my '84, but it seems to have shrunk over the years and I haven't been able to stretch it enough to fit properly. Any thoughts on softening it up enough to make it fit?

You mean they spell it that way in Australia?!

Lack of power steering in my Brat made for good upper body strength over the years:). Actually it's not so bad as long as you aren't doing K turns all the time. As I remember, front fenders and hood off the wagons or hatch with interchange. Antenna hole did change but McBrat covered that also. I always thought the hatch doors interchanged but wasn't aware that the Brat glass was unique. Rocker panels between the Brat and Hatch also were interchangeable if you were good at welding. All my comments refer to the '84 Brat (which I have) but are mostly true for all the gen2 versions from '82 to '87. You should be able to find the glass for a Brat at the u-pull-it yards; a bit rare but Brats will show up now and then. Wagons and Hatches are much more common. If you're near Portland, you might look up Superior Import Repair (www.fixmysuby.com). The owner is a dedicated Subaru person and USMB member and might have the parts you're looking for.

Certainly possible; I noticed the difference in shaft diameter in the FSM quite a while ago; could quite possibly have been a Legacy version and not the GL version.

Oddly enough, fwd axles are stronger than awd axles since they can't share the load of moving the car with the rear axles. Certainly no reason you can't use a fwd axle since they'll fit; only difference is the shaft diameter.

Check the USRM for a write-up. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75786

Which weber is he talking about? The weber of choice is the DGAV36/32 or the DFAV36/32. They are generally appropriate for 1.5L to 2.0L engines. If they didn't come off a Subaru, then you may have some issues with jetting and such.

Results: http://www.scca.com/documents/Rally%20Points/RlxNats2009FinalResults.pdf

The momemtary load on the battery caused by the blinker causes the voltage on the battery to drop slightly. Unless the voltage drops when the engine rpm is at 2000 or more, it's nothing to worry about.

Sparky, I'm sorry to see you leave; but best of luck to you in the new location. You know you have an endless source of parts here in the NW; and I should think you know about shipping.

What's the mileage on the car? For a 1990, water pump or radiator failure would not be out of line. It could still be a bubble in the coolant. But you need to do more testing.

Environmental spray is BS. What happened to your car is that it was scraped on the carrier and then repainted and not a good job at that. Firstly, go back to the dealership and get his opinion in writing so you have paperwork to back up your claim. Next, check with a quality body shop and get their opinion; also in writing if they can do it. Go back to the dealership and see if they will correct it. Again, get it in writing. Options: Certainly report to the BBB. Write to Subaru of America and tell them how you've been treated and you would like to have the issue resolved to your satisfaction; suggest remidies: new car, repair at a quality body shop, etc. If all else fails, small claims court is an option. A lawyer won't do you much good since it's not worth his while. Good luck and keep us informed.

Cool, I didn't know you were so involved in the event. Best of luck in November. Give my regards and congratulations to Max; I met him when he came out to Oregon two years ago for the National event in Hillsboro. A real stand up person.

Results: http://www.oregonrally.com/files/rx_10_11_2009.pdf

http://www.shutterdriven.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=17938

Final results: http://www.scca.com/newsarticle.aspx?hub=2&news=3801

Anyone have any results for info from the first day. Here are some: http://www.scca.com/newsarticle.aspx?hub=2&news=3798

Best tires for the conditions are always best. I've always been a proponent of mounting snow tires on a spare set of rims and installing them before the snows start to fall. This is actually a less expensive option since the only extra cost involved is the spare set of rims. The extra miles you get out of your summer tires when the winter tires are on the car tend to even out the costs. I personally favor studless snow tires since the Seattle area doesn't have snow on the ground three months of the year and studded tires are actually a disadvantage on dry or wet roadways; not to mention the extra wear on the roads. But get a set of quality tires regardless of whether you go studded or studless. Hakkapollittas, Hankook iPikes, Michelin Alpins, Toyo Observes are among my personal preferences. You are not only protecting your car, you could be protecting your life.

That sounds like the one I bought; fortunately I bought the extended replacement warranty and when they could never get it to work properly, I just got all my money back on it (including the extended warranty cost). I gave them two years to get their act together and tried buying another one. Same experience; couldn't get one set of tire changes out of a fully charged battery. The tipoff was when they didn't have replacement batteries for it. I returned that one too for a refund. Oddly enough the one I bought 5 or 6 years ago is still working like a champ. I did have to get one battery pack replaced but I consider that normal wear and tear. Anticipating that the original HF wrench will die someday, I added a Dewalt Kit and found it has more torque than the HF ever had. It came with a charger, two battery packs and case. I bought it new on craigslist for $200. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001LQLE2

http://www.oregonrally.com/rallycross.cfm Next RallyCross RallyCross #8 : Oct 11 Organized By : ORG (Oregon Region) Looks like nice weather for the weekend too: http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/getForecast?query=Hillsboro,%20OR&wuSelect=WEATHER

Unfortunately, it's not cordless. But an extension cord is certainly easier to deal with than an air hose.

If you have a manual transmission almost any R160 diff will work for you; check the transmission chart in the USRM to see whether you have a 4.111 or 3.900 version and what models/years have the same as you need. I can't help you for the automatic transmissions. Transmission type can be found on the VIN plate in the engine compartment or the label on the transmission located on the bell housing near the starter motor.