edrach

This looks like a fun low pressure TSD event. Get your significant other and try out something different for the weekend and get to see some pretty Oregon scenery as well as a beach party at the end. http://www.plesba.com/mtts2009/Mountains_to_Sea_09.pdf http://www.plesba.com/mtts2009/index.shtml

I would go by the transmission type in the event someone else already changed the tranny. Check the transmission type against the VIN plate in the engine compartment to make sure it's the same as installed, then the VIN# will work for you.

I bought my last set of pads from Primitive Racing in Tigard, OR. Sent them an email, paid for them and had the pads in a day or two by mail or UPS. Right pads and worked just fine for me.

The most important thing to determine for your car: is the differential ratio 3.900 or 4.111? Check the three transmission charts (two threads in the USRM) to try to find yours. Also, Fuji didn't seem to have any rhyme or reason as to which ratio they installed based on engine size; I've seen both ratios on various years of EJ22s. Only consistency I've seen is the Forester has 4.111 for 5MT and 4.444 for automatics. Other than that, it depends on the model and year whether there's a 4.111 or 3.900 in the EJ25 engine.

Wow, glad I don't live back east any more. Last time I had a flywheel turned it was $25 plus tax....professional machine shop that did all kinds of automotive work (across from the old Everett PAP location).

Check the USRM for axle removal tips. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75786

From my limited understanding the front O2 sensor actually will try to influence the fuel mixture. The rear one only measures that the emissions are okay (this is the one that will fail you on an emissions test). Oddly, some people have been known to replace the rear one with a resistor to get through an emissions test. Odd that the rich mixture only occurs on one cylinder or bank. I'd think fuel injector problems for that (or the connector to the fuel injector). Let us know what finally resolved the issue for you.

I read the new thread first. So sorry; what a crappy piece of luck.

107K and you haven't changed the gearoil in your 5MT and rear diff? Check your owner's manual for the suggested intervals; I believe it's 30K! I've gone 100K with a quality synthetic gear oil (Castrol syntec or Redline) but that was only before I knew better. Being thrifty with gearoil is gambling on having a transmission failure which is certainly more expensive than the $40 cost for the gearoil (if you do your own changes).

I'm with gg; get the exact posts and report back. Just as a guess, I'm thinking MAF or the connector/wiring going to it. An MAF failure causes it to go into "limp mode" so you can get it off the road and go short distances. Limp mode defaults the fuel mixture to rich so it runs and will not damage the engine due to a lean mixture. Rich mixture could also cause the backfire with a hot catalytic converter (which is what your CC will be after travelling uphill for two miles).

I won't address the ball joints and tie rod end, that's obvious. Make sure that both castle nuts on the front wheels are TIGHT; I believe the torque requirement is 145 ft-lb, altho tighter than that is okay. I would be suspicious of the axle with the torn boot; looks like the CVJ (outer) and that could account for the clicking noise on hard lock turning. Removing the axle and regreasing the CVJ and replacing the torn boot should be done sooner than later. I'm not so sure that only one wheel turning with the front end off the ground is so normal. Tightening the castle nut might just solve that. I don't believe the inner (DOJ) of the axles are the cause of any of your symptoms.

It never hurts to have a FSM for reference. Search amazon, ebay and then www.books4cars.com. Last site will have it, but more expensive than if you find it in the first two places. I still think your noise is because of driving it on pavement in 4WD. I don't think the car is meant to do that. The fact that driving it on a lift is quiet points to that. Find a nice smooth dirt road and see how it works there.

What color is the 84 EA81?

Just add to the test, run the rpm up to 3000 and watch the voltage across the battery; it should climb up to a maximum of around 14.5VDC. A better test is to repeat the same voltage tests with the headlights on high beam and as many other current loads you can add (blower, brake lights, etc.); you should get similar results if the alternator is working up to snuff.

Just get two rear axles at the junkyard and disconnect the axle and innner joint and use the outer joints to hold the rear wheels on. Then all you need to do is remove the rear diff (or leave it on after you removed the drive shaft). It should get you a small decrease in gas consumption. Sell the original rear axles to recover some of your costs.

Are you trying to drive in 4WD on pavement or dirt? I'm not sure about the automatics, but my old 5MT did not drive well in 4WD on pavement even with matched tires. If you really need another diff, it might be worth your while to drive down to Smokey Point PAP. Rear diffs are $25 plus tax and a small core charge there.

Carbs Unlimited in Fife, WA has the most detailed information on Weber carbs that I've found. They stock most everything you need or can order what they don't have. http://www.carburetion.com/weber/weber.htm

Pics from Day 1,

Shouldn't be too hard. Boot is replaceable and if the diaphragm is torn, that's replaceable too. There's a place in Fife that reps Webers and they should have the parts for you. Too bad I can't remember the name. Maybe it'll come to me.

An outstanding rally. Probably the best event my wife and I have ever run. Late entries brought the number to 37; a new record for this event. The event ran on time, the roads were awesome (and not car breakers except for a water crossing), speeds were just right for the roads we were on, and instructions clear and detailed. We saw twenty four checkpoints on the first day (there were more) and I counted 21 on day 2. In spite of that, scores on the first day were posted before the banquet ended and we could get to bed at a reasonable hour to prepare for the next day. Sunday had the most awesome hillclimb I've ever seen on a TSD rally. The event ended at a local Moses Lake park with a club sponsored BBQ. Lots of good food, results posted quickly and most competitors on their way home before 5 PM. The only downside was a water crossing that came up quickly (even with the milages warning you that it was there) and a number of Subarus discovered their radiators were mounted in plastic which sheared off and put them out of commission. Fortunately, my Impreza was not one of them. Only downside for me was wearing out a perfectly good set of rallycross tires in one event.

http://www.oregonrally.com/files/rx_5_31_2009.pdf http://shutterdriven.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=15202

Trying to get the a/c working on my '84 Brat. Significant leak in the system; most likely the front seal of the compressor. One autoparts store locally had a seal listed but can't get any. I have two compressors available at home and I'll publish part numbers when I get home. I'm also looking for the o-rings for the suction and discharge hoses as they attach to the compressor.

WRX seats fit in Impreza. I don't know what years, but I have '03 WRX seats in my '97 Impreza (got them from my son who had them in his '96 Impreza. Only issue is the mounting holes and bolts; one seat uses 4 and another uses 5; I just skipped the extra one since four is all that's needed. The other item is you MUST use the original seat-belt receiver from the Impreza on the WRX seats. By the way WRX seats are way more comfortable. Also, RS seats will fit also.

Roads are interesting too. Often rains during the event and the clay dirt becomes slicker than snot.

I'm an ex-east coaster. Ran about a half dozen STPR events.....back in the 1980's:eek:. Wellsboro is a really pleasant small town to live in. Almost took a job there at one time. I'm glad it didn't work out since I'm a west coast convert.