edrach

Sorry you're so bummed out about this, but it's a fact of life with AWD. If you can design an AWD system that doesn't care about tire size, you'd make a fortune. I've only had this issue once and I've already posted my solution. You'd be even more bummed to know what a damaged viscous coupling costs on a 5MT transmission.

Have you cleaned changed the air filter. A dirty filter will make it run rich. Also, can you lean out the mixture on the carb. I finally got mine to pass by replacing the Hitachi with a weber. Where are you located; if you're in Seattle I have a solution for you.

Cool, wish I had known this before. I'll definite see you about them next time I have to get wheels powder coated.

GD, great price on the sandblasting. Next time I have a set of wheels I want done, I'll bring them down to Portland and have you do them. Worth my while. Thanks for the information.

I have a FSM for my '97 Impreza which has a whole chapter on specific diagnostics using the select monitor. I can copy them off for you and mail them if you think it will help. Also, try danbob on nasioc and he might be able to help you out.

I had a similar situation recently and couldn't find a slightly worn tire to match up with the other three. I bought two new ones of the same brand and size, put them on the front where they'll wear quicker and moved the fronts to the rear. Now I have a spare tiere that matches the two in the back. When the tires are evenly worn again, I'll start rotating front to rear to keep them all even.

Check your local tire place, they'll know. But ask a few places to make sure they don't want to sell you a full set. If I remember correctly, on a 16" tire, tred depth on all four should be less than 3/32" different.

Great job, Geoff. It's a pleasure to see someone really save some wheels from the scrap heap. Outside of the rust, the wheels were really fine.

Yup. sorry.

If you're looking at it while working on the engine, replace it. If you don't you'll be sorry later.

From the USRM: Craftsman # 42885 WF (the letters are not important but the numbers are correct) is the tool I use to knock out the roll pin. The right diameter and just long enough to knock out the pin without getting stuck in the hole. Plus when it wears out I get another for free from Sears.

True enough, but it's truly easier to drive the pin in from the bevelled hole and out from the other side.

The ac condensor is in front of the radiator. The condensor is a heat exchanger; that is, it throws off hot air....right into the radiator. The second fan is there to get more air flowing through the radiator to keep the car from overheating while running at low speeds or waiting for the light to change while the ac is on.

R12 is only outlawed on new equipment. Old systems are "grandfathered" in and you can still "top it up" if necessary. The trick is finding R12 at a reasonable price.

I'm with you there. I do it by feel most of the time. Also the bevelled hole is the one you want to insert the roll pin into when you hammer it home.

Hey Russ, a fine vacation in beautiful Connecticut! How can you turn that down?

Check the bevel on the hole; only one direction has the bevel. Match it up with the bevel on the stub axle and you'll be okay. Lesson learned. Trust me, we've all done it.

Connie, the pics tell the story. At one time the muffer pipe rusted out and the previous owner didn't replace it soon enough. The exhaust combined with the moisture in the air forms acid which promotes the rust. Also caused all the rust on the inside of the bumper. I'll watch PAP and see if I can find you a nicer bumper. Notice that the exhaust pipe on the muffler is in pretty good shape; definitely not original. $10K is ludricrous; I can understand the estimate, but there's not sufficient rust to warrant paying that much for the restore.

Yikes, just checked the weather. Four days of partly cloudy changed to four days of clear! Temp up to 83 on Sunday. Bring along the sunblock.

If you have a digital voltmeter you can check the continuity of both filaments before you spend money on a bulb you might not need. Sounds like you have a voltmeter since you determined all three wires are hot. I wouldn't ground any of those terminials until I know for sure which one is the ground lead.

I'm with Tom on this. I had a similar situation when both low beams failed at the same time. After I changed the bulbs, and they failed again shortly after I suspected something else. It turned out to be a faulty voltage regulator in the alternator allowing the voltage to climb to almost 18V causing the low beams to fail prematurely. I was fortunate not to lose anything else (like the ECU).

Another one, 32 entrants and going for a record!

Great itinerary and beautiful pics. Thanks for sharing.

Welcome to a small but proud and elite Brat Owner's group. You're off to a good start. Firstly, I would suggest the How to Keep Your Subaru Alive book by Larry Owens, Volume 1 should work for you although Volume 2 just added a few more years to the copy. Amazon or Ebay should find it for you and it is much more useful and entertaining than the Haynes manual. There are even some on the USMB who can get you a copy on CD or download it to you. Sorry I can't help you about the missing ECU although there might be one at Pull a Part (they currently have a gen2 Brat in the yard). I wouldn't worry about the EGR; I've had mine disconnected for 5 years now since I put the Weber in place of the Hitachi (a fine upgrade) and aside from the ECU telling me the EGR is not there it hasn't presented any difficulties. Best of luck and welcome the the USMB,

My understanding is these wheels came off a 2005 or 2006 Legacy. If they were on a 2002 Imp, they were definitely "add ons". I have them on my '99 Forester and they are sure pretty.