edrach

Lead based paint. I don't know anyone who paints the insides of their engine. It would be nice if the cameraman could focus the camera in his close up shots. It's so easy to find engine valves with carbon build-up on them. I don't understand why they didn't use that to make a comparison. "breaks down water into hydrogen and oxygen" that is definitely a "snake oil" comment. The hydrogen/oxygen chemical bond is one of the strongest in nature. I'm not a chemist but I just don't believe that comment.

I have a EA81 with the 5 speed D/R swap in my '84 Brat. Best upgrade I've ever done. Takes 500 rpm off the engine at highway speeds running in 5th instead of the old 4th. Of course the weber conversion we added later doesn't hurt either.

There's an ID label on the transmission bell housing near the starter motor. On a manual tranny the ID # is something like TY-752-VC1AA; that number will match the transmission number on the VIN plate mounted on the driver's side inner fender. Check the transmission information in the USRM to identify the front diff ratio. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=97885. The chart lists mainly manual transmissions; there has to be one for automatics. You mention you have a FSM; check the transmission and rear diff sections to get info. I have a FSM for my '97 Impreza and it indicates the the automatic front diff ratio is 4.111. It also indicates that the is an ID stamped in the rear housing of the rear diff. It runs vertically between the two vertical bolts on the left side. For an EJ22 equipped automatic the rear diff is identified by VA1REF-XG and would be 4.111. Remember this is an Impreza FSM. I don't know if the Legacy is the same. I don't think it's necessary to replace the side seals unless they are leaking already.

Good luck with getting those bolts out to replace the shock. Soak them good with a decent rust penetrant for about a week. The bolts entend through the threaded portion about a half inch...soak them from that side. And take it slow and easy when you remove them.

I'm with GD on this. A common problem on the older Subes is the connector on the ignition switch cable where it plugs into the harness under the dash. The connector can't carry enough current to the solenoid. It's pretty easy to spot; remove the plastic under the dash and follow the cable from the ignition switch about 6" to a pink plastic connector. Check the connector body; if it has a brown or black discoloration around one of the wires, you found your problem. A bad connection generates heat and makes the plastic turn brown or black. A quick trip to your local pull a part yard and few bucks should buy you a new cable. I've found that Subaru used the same cable from the later EA81 cars up to and including early Legacy/Impreza models.

I love it. You keep at it long enough and the truth will come out.

Your first link sets you up to an Amway like site to become a dealer. The second link doesn't connect. Look I don't want to knock your conklin products but frankly, I've never heard of them before nor have any of the other 20,000+ members of the USMB ever suggested using them. Early on I had a problem with our car and someone here suggested Seafoam, I found it at the local auto parts store, used it and found it solved my problem. I've since used it with good success for other things for the last 10 years. I'm not into trying synthetic oils that I've never heard of in my car. I don't even use synthetic engine oil in my car since I don't believe that there is an economic justification for using it. I find that dyno oil changes every 2500 miles have served me well with my cars and can't justify taking the chance of using ANY oil with an oil change interval of 15K miles or more. I generally buy my Subarus with around 100K miles on them and keep them until they turn 250K. Then I generally sell them still running to someone else. Testimonials from racecar drivers/owners about the merits of their synthetic oils don't sway me since I can't rebuild my engine every month or two. Just for clarity, I'm not against all synthethic oils. I've had very good success with Redline 75W-90NS gear oil which I've suggested to others with high mileage transmissions. I can summarize, I don't change my preferences like oil brands based on anything other than the need to replace a brand that doesn't seem to be working for me. If I have an issue with what I'm using I'll research other alternatives and try them out. But just to change something that is working for me, seems un-necessary.

http://www.oregonrally.com/files/RX_5_3_2009.pdf

I stand corrected on the cost of oil analysis. My information came from the 1980’s when I repaired the instrumentation that does oil analysis and spent quite a bit of time talking with customers about the science and the cost….which at that time was $75 per analysis. In checking the web, I found this link and the OP is correct in his estimate of the cost. http://www.vehicare.com/programs/analysis.cfm lists test kits at $15 to $17 each and viewing what is listed from the analysis there’s quite a bit of information. As to telling when your head gasket is going, you’ll know that the head gasket is leaking well before you’ll see chunks of head gasket material in the oil. The temperature gauge will tell you that well before you get an oil analysis. Besides, the normal test for imminent head gasket failure is to measure for hydrocarbons in the coolant. And for telling if the air filter is dirty, I just take it out now and then and look at it. I don’t have to spend money on an engine oil analysis for that!

Because the OP is confused. If you do an oil analysis on USED oil and zinc shows up it indicates wear (bronze bearings and synchros contain zinc). The OP is right on that score. However, when the zinc is part of the additives added to oil, it would show up in an oil analysis of NEW oil. It doesn't mean that the oil manufacturer grinds up zinc or uses old oil to formulate new oil; more likely, some chemical (zinc oxide or such as an example, not as fact) is part of the additive package.

I put some in the oil to get rid of the sludge in an old motor. I put the rest in the gas tank . I don't think you need pics for that.

Here's the link you are looking for: http://www.conklin.com/pg.asp?p=672 These are oil analysis testimonials which really have nothing to do with Seafoam. Seafoam does not recommend you use it to increase the miles interval between oil changes nor do they claim to reduce the metal wear in the engine. Oil analysis is fine for truckers, railroad engines, airplane engines and commercial vehicles but is really impractical for a private individual (have you priced the cost of an oil analysis recently?). And if you're going to run extra long miles without changing the oil, you're asking for trouble even if you do run an analysis. The analysis will tell you that it's time for a major overhaul of your engine. When you see the metal wear, it's usually too late. Oil analysis tells a commercial user when it's time to overhaul the engine, nothing more. For the individual user, the cost of one oil analysis will wipe out all the savings that you might have realized with the extra time between oil changes (as well as the cost of the additives).

When it happens to you, post back up. Check first to see if it's missing spark or fuel. Both fixes are pretty common and well known.

Check out this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=98627&highlight=Subaru+alive

If it has a 4lo, it has a 4hi too. Try to find a copy of How To Keep Your Subaru Alive, it will give you some enjoyable reading and some of the basics that you need to know if you're doing your own work.

There are some that have replaced the 4 speed tranny with a 5 speed out of a later model EA82 vehicle. A worthwhile option. Write-ups can be found. As long as you're new to Brats, don't try the 4WD mode on pavement. It doesn't work and can damage the gearbox....only on dirt or with snow on the ground. Welcome to the world of Subaru. My son introduced me to his Brat 10+ years ago and I'm thoroughly hooked.

You have a funny way of presenting a product that you like. First of all, I'm familiar with Seafoam and I've used it and gotten good results with it for the purpose I used it for. Then you start off by telling me Seafoam is no good and you've got data to prove that the Conklin product is better; I haven't seen the data yet. And frankly, I really don't care since I haven't a clue where to get the Conklin product. If it were as good as you claim, everybody in the country would know about it and it would be on the shelves of every auto parts store out there.

I'm not interested in Royal Purple; it's not an oil I use and it doesn't tell me anything about the Conklin product.

Yikes, just paid a visit to NAPA for something else, but the Seafoam is up to $9.39 now. I'm glad I still have two cans on the shelf.

I'd certainly check for leaks after using a "non-crush" type washer. What's wrong with using a crush washer (p/n 11126AA000)? They are certainly cheap enough. Someone here on the Board made a bulk buy and re-sold the excess on the Board. I bought 20 of them; hopefully he does it again.

Too bad they don't have any lights for the newer cars. Some issues I have to disagree with: I don't think these are the actual xenon bulbs which require significant different power. They look like quartz halogen bulbs with xenon gas as the halogen gas filler. If they are only drawing the current for the lower wattage (normal for quartz halogen), I don't see how they are getting the higher wattage light output. Looks like a bit of a scam to me. They do look cool however; and they are cheap enough to try if you like.

How about ONE result for ONE product like, say 10W-30 engine oil?

I went back to the Conklin link and found their catalog. I see the product line they offer. The most comphrehensive line of oils and additives that I've never heard of. I see lots of testemonials but no actual data on wear or fuel savings. I also don't see a dealer list, prices, or a national presence. You're welcome to be happy with the product but I'm not willing to be a test subject for a product/brand I've never heard of.

Yes it should. Your alternator is bad and the battery has lost some of its charge. Rev the engine while you're checking the voltage. It's fairly low at idle but should be around 14.5 at 2000 rpm. It shouldn't increase past that voltage at 3000 rpm.

Generally when the inner axle joint is a problem, it's when you are accelerating that you feel the vibration, and it disappears instantly when you let off on the gas. It can be a very light vibration that a mechanic who's not used to your car will not notice. Or it can be so bad you think the transmission is about to fall out of the car.