edrach

ORG has spoiled me, almost a week since the last event and still no posted results.

Odd, it's $4.99 plus tax here in WA. I only shop at one or two places they all seem about the same. Funny, I use it to bring back normal idle when the IAC valve runs my idle up to 1800 rpm. Smoking up the intersection.....too funny.

Sorry to rain on your parade, but you're comparing apples and oranges. Your Conklin product is a fuel additive which purports to increase fuel mileage, seafoam is a detergent cleaner with a multitude of uses. I also went to the website to see what they offer. http://www.conklin.com/pg.asp?p=6 The only thing they seem to offer for my Subaru is a fuel additive. Using their calculator, they allowed me to calculate my saving in fuel costs in a year. They neglected to subtract the cost of the fuel additive for the year, so that calcuation is bogus even if I believed my fuel consumption would be reduced by 10%. Looking for a dealer to sell me the product, I entered my zipcode and wasn't able to find a dealer within 300 miles! No wonder I never heard of this miraculous stuff. I'll stick with my Seafoam which works for a number of things on my Subaru and which I can buy at most auto parts stores.

Two day, low pressure (for the non-computerized entrants), fun TSD in eastern Washington. Although it may not have any link to the MG1000 of the 1970's or 1980's, the concept and intent appear very similar. Lots of gravel and a fun touring drive through the scenic parts of eastern Washington. Looks like fun! My wife and I are coming out of retirement! http://www.rainierautosports.com/events/2009/noalibi/

Careful leveraging. The timing cover breaks easily.

Geoff, is this for an early Hatch? If so, you might be in luck. There's an '83 Hatch at PAP in Lynnwood. I saw it there last Thursday; looked fairly rust-free to me. 3rd row from the south fence; about 6 cars east of the center aisle.

Pics are here: http://www.pdxsports.com/photos/showindex.asp?folder=200905rx

http://www.pdxsports.com/photos/showindex.asp?folder=200905rx

Actually, Sunday was pretty good. Cloudy in the morning and it cleared up by 10:30 or so. Course got dried out by the afternoon run and it turned out to be a fun day. Rallycross was great fun.

Works for me....telephone is certainly more efficient. Let me know how it works out.

It might be more difficult than you think. I followed both wires on my Brat and they merge with a big heavy cable harness where they get lost. I don't think the issue is with the heavier wire since it is connected to the battery directly and all the measurements indicate that it is wired correctly. I think it's the lower one (or a funky alternator--in my mind, I still haven't eliminated that as the cause). However Rob, that might work. Find an old harness, cut the T connector off with about 6" of wire and butt splice the upper terminal to heavy guage wire and run it back to the positive terminal of the battery. The lower wire goes to ???; somewhere in the digi-dash (charge light) and for the time being just don't connect it since the digi-dash is not installed. If this works we know the issue is in where that wire goes; if it doesn't work we can begine to suspect the alternator again.

It looks like fun tomorrow. We arrived late this afternoon and it was raining like crazy....get an ark like crazy. An hour later, the wind is blowing hard and the sun is shining. Supposed to be more rain tomorrow but not quite as heavy as today. But it will likely be a very muddy field. Great fun. :banana::banana:

Sorry guys, I have to disagree with re-installing a digi-dash and starting all over. What we have is a sneak path to ground; adding the digi-dash will not change that and will only confuse the troubleshooting efforts. A temporary solution might be to add a switch to disable the T connector wires and eliminate the drain on the battery. The T connector has much smaller wires and can be more easily disconnected than the main battery cable.

You certainly can drive your Brat. Check out the SCCA website for the 2009 rallycross rules.....a google search will find it for you.

I've cut apart an early EA81 a while back and I see evidence that other cars have been cut apart recently. Not sure who is cutting them up. I know about their rule against jacks and torches; I haven't seen anything regarding saws. I recently asked about the cost for a pair of rocker panels and did not get an additional cost for having them cut it up.

Well, so far we haven't checked resistance to ground of the S (and L just for SNG) terminals in the alternator.

You might call Jason in Parts at Mike Scarf Subaru (866-528-5282) and ask him what his internet price is.

Connie, I can't argue with the fact that the dash isn't there and that might account for the zero volts you found when you measured the lower wire. My understanding is that it goes to the charge lamp in the dash. I checked my '84 Brat this evening and it came up with 11.4V also. If the dash is not installed, I can see that happening. However, if the wire that goes to the charge lamp goes elsewhere (not ground since you measured open circuit), that might be the cause of your drain problem. What range of resistance were you using when you measured that resistance?

Interesting, should have 11V or so on the bottem pin of the T connector. High resistance is correct for both pins of the T connector. How about the two pins in the alternator with the T connector unplugged.

Those are the correct voltages for the connector off and the ignition off. Leave the connector off and measure the voltages with the ignition on (upper one should still be 12.63 and lower one will change (my Brat reads 11.7V there with the ignition on). Some final resistance tests to do: Using one of the higher resistance ranges of the voltmeter. Turn off the ignition. Unplug the T connector on the alternator and measure the resistance of each pin against ground; put the black lead from the voltmeter on the negative terminal of the battery and use the red lead on each of the internal pins of the T connector. Let me know what you get. Lastly, again still with the ignition off, measure the resistance of each pin inside the white T receptacle of the alternator against the battery's negative terminal. If this doesn't yield a significant result, I'll be giving up also. Thanks for your patience and perseverance Connie.

Connie, just to be sure the wires are in the correct position. The connector is shaped like a "T". The top of the T should have the fatter of the two wires and it should have white insulation on it. The stem part of the T should be the thinner of the two wires and has white insulation with a red stripe winding around it.

I had an old transmission that I was planning on having rebuilt so I pulled off the rear housing and had some idea of what was involved. Opted to have my mechanic do the work and was glad I didn't have the responsibility of screwing it up myself.

Remember is you don't demount the original tires you can take them back for a refund. Once you strip a tire off you've eliminated the opportunity to take it back.

Doesn't if feel great now that it's running right again. I no longer fear making a u-turn or parking.:banana::banana:

Since you did the job yourself, I guess you realize that 10 hours labor was a rip-off. $550 for the VC is the list price; when I had mine changed, the shop only charged 3 hours for labor. Knowing what's involved, I thought that was fair. It only took my mechanic 10 minutes to diagnose the problem; five minutes of driving to suspect it and 5 minutes on the lift to confirm it.