edrach

Just a post for encouragement and thanks for the fine write up. It's not that there's no interest out here, it's just that this is likely way past the ability of most people here on the USMB. It's certainly past what I would attempt, but I'm interested in seeing someone who's got the guts to do this.

Hey Chris, any pics and/or results?

How about one like this?

the very early models had an external regulator. My '82 Brat has an alternator with an internal regulator; I think Connie's coupe has the same. Connections are for internal regulator so external is not the issue.

I bought a '94 Impreza sedan a few years ago specifically as a rallycross car and secondary daily driver. Good shape, ran good, but it was a stone! Previous owner had outfitted it with nice 16" wheels and tires. When I installed original 14" wheels and tires, the entire character of the car changed! It actually had get up and go. This fact was confirmed in the Subiesport article about their project rally Impreza. Having sold the sedan and upgraded to a '97 Imp wagon, I note the same thing. Also, check the specs on the '93 through '98 Imprezas; specifically the front and rear diff ratios. Fuji couldn't make up their mind as to whether it should be a 3.900 or 4.111. Trust me, the 4.111 cars have a lot more acceleration than the 3.900 versions. Cheap fix is to go with smaller tires; the expensive fix is to go with a 4.11 tranny and rear diff. Of course, my experience is only with manual transmission models; I have no clue what to do about the automatics (other than to replace them:rolleyes:).

Connie, I'm going to have to step back on this for the weekend. I've got too much going today and during the weekend to follow-up on this for now. Don't give up; there are others out there who can persue this with you.

Clean out your PM mailbox.

Just a comment here about all the suggestions: The drain stops when the center fusible link is pulled. That link is before all the fuses in the fuse box. The only items that are fed by that fusible link without going through a separate fuse are the alternator and ignition switch.....unless someone added wiring to that circuit in the past that isn't shown in the FSM. This is a difficult source to find: if it were a solid short to ground it would have blown the fusible link. Somehow the short is going through some other accessory that limits the parasitic drain to about (this is a guess on my part based on the fact that it drains a fully charged battery overnight) 6 to 10 amps. Based on what Connie has measured, my bet is on something in the alternator wiring/area.

PM sent.

There's two wires, one is white and the other has some red in it. They go into that connector shaped like a T. Which wire is in the top of the T and which is in the stem of the T? I'm wondering if at some time they didn't get switched?

You aren't a quitter. Yesterday certainly proved it (not counting the days and weeks prior to that). Connie, which wire from the alternator causes the drain (.003)? That's the one you should visually check from the alternator end back as far as you can see. Look for a pinched wire, worn or frayed insulation, anything that would ground out and cause this problem. Don't worry about the alternator, you've already checked it and it doesn't appear to be the cause of the drain. Swapping it out before didn't help and it won't help now.

Long range weather forecast predicts a nice weekend without any rain. We'll see.

Yes, looks like a condensor; John in KY is right about it and it's normal use. Where are we in checking the drain issue? Last I remember, when you disconnected the alternator wiring, the meter went from .003 to 1.00. I don't have quite as much time this morning but should be able to spend some time during breakfast.

You did good today and lots of progress was made. I've got to go to work and you need your sleep. We'll pick it up again when there's time.

A car battery has typically 80 Ampere-hours of capacity. The battery would discharge in about 10 hours; so the drain is 8 amps/hour. This won't even blow the fuse (if there were one in-line) much less the fusible link.

Rats, it's in the harness somewhere (maybe). I was hoping it would be in the alternator. Plug in the alternator and measure the resistance at the battery terminals again.

That's actually a good thing since it indicates the short is not in the wiring. Next step: Take the meter and touch one probe to the case of the alternator and the other to each of the three connections and see what the meter tells you.

I think we're almost there, but don't jump to that conclusion just quite yet. Fix the bad wiring and check that the meter reads 1.00 with everything connected first.

I have service manual for '84; should be the same for your '83. Fusible links are green, red and red. If the service manual doesn't mis-lead me, that's Fusible link 1, 2, and 3. Fusible link 2 goes directly to the ignition switch and to the alternator. To isolate this further, put the center red back in and unplug the harness to the ignition switch (does the meter go back to 1.00?). If not, disconnect both of the wires to the alternator (does the meter go back to 1.00 now?).

I'll be working a terminal checkpoint with Qman and Dr. RX on Saturday. I've got a family comitment on Sunday so I'll have to head home early.

.003 is a pretty good reason for the drain you are seeing; it's almost a dead short. If you want to continue this (I know it's frustrating, but you're on the right track), take out each fuse one at a time and check the reading to see if the .003 changes. It should get to be a big number or indicate offscale when you find the circuit causing the drain. If all the fuses are removed and you still get the .003 reading, pull the fusible links one a time and take a resistance reading (upside down horseshoe; and no, you don't sound stupid) each time. Good luck. As to the battery condition for draining it all the time and recharging. It shouldn't degrade the battery as long as it doesn't sit discharged for a long period of time. Charge it up and leave it charged. No point in connecting it again for the time being.

I would find it strange also.

Another question.....did this carb come with the engine you recently installed that happened about the same time as the battery drain?

I've never heard of that. But that might be your parsitic drain. A solenoid holding a vacuum line closed; removing the battery removes power from the solenoid and results in the sucking noise.