edrach

Too late; I was likely the poster that recommended www.cvaxles.com back a few years. I liked them very much but switched to MWE more recently. I'm glad to hear he's still in business.

If you have a Hitachi distributor, I would check the ignitor module. Most parts shops will check if for you once you remove it. If it turns out to be bad, pull one at the junkyard; a new one will set you back quite a few bucks. I've replaced enough of these over the last 15 years and the typical failure mode is that the car just dies as if you turned off the ignition. 15 minutes later it'll start up and run for 2 to 10 minutes before it fails againg.

Others have identified the carb as the single barrel Carter-Weber. You might be able to get it to run better by replacing the fuel filter (next to the fuel pump on the driver's side near the rear wheel; on a metal plate bolted to the underside of the car) and the fuel/water separater (looks like a fuel filter, but has three ports instead of two). It might run better for you then, but it will be necessary if you go for the two barrel weber carb. Odd, I don't see the fuel/water separater in your pics, but it's right by the windshield wiper motor in Bucky92's pic.

Thanks for the memories:lol:. It's a crock not remembering little things like that.

Found this in the old USRM after McBrat was kind enough to repair the link: http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/AirSuction/airsuctionvalve.htm

I have XT6 seats in my Brat now. I just don't remember whether they came to me modifed for the Brat or whether they were just a bolt in. I think the XT and early GL brackets might work fine.

I finally found the thread I was looking for. There's another link inside it that might be helpful too. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=30378&highlight=suction+valve And another: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2569&pp=10&highlight=Air+suction+valve

Ebay or Amazon would work. But www.books4cars.com is a good source.

Also, turbo axles are different from non-turbo. You would likely be safe with any '82, '83 and '84 wagon; if there are any Brats or Hatches in the mix, you can go as late as 1987 for your axles. Check the write up in the USRM for hints and tips for changing the axle.

Actually, I think you're looking for the air suction valve. Do a search on this (might be in the USRM). The newer ASV uses the same flapper valve as the older ones. NEW price is under $20 and all you need to do is open it up and remove the valve and install it in your old ASV housing. Found this in the USRM: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49926 Unfortunately the pics come out with "x"; probably because the links to the pics got lost with the conversion to the current board layout.

OEM Subaru shocks are made by KYB. But I think the GR-2s are an upgrade in quality.

Here you go: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KYB-KG4183A-Subaru-DL-Shock-Absorber_W0QQitemZ180324346273QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20090129?IMSfp=TL0901291210007r13581 Still on ebay and 10 available. Buy it now price just under $37 each and free shipping.

I'm for the GR-2s which I installed on the rear of two Brats in our family. I don't expect I will ever have to do it again since the GR-2s lasted close to 100K miles on our Legacy wagon. However the issue of installation might be another problem. In theory it should be a 10 minute job for each side. If you're fortunate, that's all it will take. There are only 2 bolts at the top and a nut at the bottom. The upper bolts pass through the frame and extend about 1/2" past the frame. That 1/2" rusts over time and removing the bolts can be an issue. Lots of quality rust breaker (PB Blaster is not sufficient) like Yield or Kroil should do the trick. Allow it to soak in and have patience and spray more rust remover and you'll be able to do it. The trick is not to break the bolt in the hole; that presents a whole other problem to resolve. Heat from a welding torch will help in extreme cases. I've been fortunate not to have to resort to that. As to the issue of cost, $65 per shock is a rip-off. The link gives you the part number for the KYB GR-2 and you can see what they cost. I got all of mine on ebay years ago. I would suspect there might be a few more to find there.

Try richierich (on the Board) or visit his shop in Portland. http://www.fixmysuby.com.

Water leak under front dash is most likely dried out sealant around the windshield. A competent glass shop should be able to find and fix this without removing the windshield. The rear wiper not working is possibly a broken wire in the cable harness going to the rear door. My '97 had the same issue at around the same mileage. Break is around the top passenger side of the rear hatch. I managed to fix mine but this will be difficult for the average owner.

You realize that if you change the rear diff ratio you'll also have to change the front diff ratio to match. Unless you go to RWD only.

That same 4.454 VLSD come in two years of the WRX also; I believe it was 2001 and 2002. I've got one of those also; they are only a bolt in on the SVX and certain WRX's.

Posted elsewhere by an organizer of the event: Hi guys, The event has been postponed. There won't be an event at the Stanwood property. It looks like we got shut down by the county. It appears that Snohomish county is designated a wetland unless otherwise noted. Hence, this property, possibly any in Snohomish county, cannot be used for rallyx. A harsh blow but we're looking for alternate venues. I apologize for the late notice but we were hoping that we'd be able to pulll something together last minute. Cheers, Erik

I have the scanguage II on my Impreza. I got it as a birthday present (requested by me) and I find it very useful for specific applications.....i.e. instant readout of CEL codes. It does lots of other things and it's usually set up to read rpm, water temp, speed and MPG. Easy to use and works well with Subaru (read page 21 or 22 for an important tip for making it work properly). Suggested vendor is Rallitek in Portland, OR. That having been said I use the BR-3 OBDII reader from http://obddiagnostics.com/ for diagnostic work. It hooks up to most any cheap laptop and is easy to use. If I remember correctly, you can download the software for free and play with it to see if you like it. It's also much less expensive than the scanguage II. I like both and use them both as needed.

If your '80 is like my '84 Brat, the primary fuel filter is right next to the fuel pump under the car on the driver's side just forward of the rear wheel. The secondary is actually a vapor trap and has three outlet/inlets. It is usually in the engine compartment up near the firewall on the driver's side.

Oh that brings back memories. I used to do that back in a small lake in NY state. So much fun. I wish we could find a frozen lake here in WA to do that.

http://www.rally-america.com/events/2009/SnoDrift/

Good advice from moosens, but do the filters first since it's the easiest. Don't be surprised if the plastic silencers are not present. When I installed a weber on our Brat, I blocked off the air suction valve since it was no longer needed. Hard to tell if the original owner did that also.

Which number did you call for Jason?

So how's running with new filters?