edrach

If you're doing an EJ22 swap you might as well go with the AWD 5MT. If you want to check if you have a 5 speed d/r, take it out on the open road (without traffic) get up to speed in 4th and note the rpm at that speed, shift into 5th and check the rpm, if it goes down you've got a 5 speed, if it goes up, you're in third again.

Now I understand why Auburn Subaru (now MikeScarf Subaru) is no longer associated with them. I really never liked their website; too difficult and time consuming to navigate if you have a number of unusual parts to order. I just call Jason in parts at 1-866-528-5282 and place my order. I've never had any problem with getting parts on time from him. Jamie at genuinesubaruparts is also an excellent resource.

Thanks. I had a brain fart when I asked that question, since the selling price is listed on the database.....it was off the screen to the right! Sorry, I've been up too late going through the database and printing out the recent sales.

I saw them both, but the ebay listings expired. Can you send me the selling price for yours so I can add it to my database to present to the insurance company. Thanks.

I know this has been posted before, but I had so much trouble finding it again, I thought it might be useful to repost. My apologies to the original poster. This link shows all the Brats that have been sold in the last 3 years by VIN number. Unfortunately the ebay listings are only current for the last three months or so. http://www.vinbee.com/cgi-bin/pv_fetch.cgi?kw=&Search=Search&s=&veh=subaru-brat It works for other makes and models as well.

I would imagine that a '97 Impreza wagon has a similar mechanical and electronic assembly. Does the lock work properly when actuated with the remote or internal switches? If not, your problem might be elsewhere in the wiring. My lock stopped working electronically. I pulled another lock at a wrecking yard and replaced the original. No help. Just a additional comment: my backup lights stopped working shortly after the lock did. Long story shorter: I found the wiring harness severed in the upper right hand (passenger side) corner near the hinge. Of the dozen or so wires, 4 were completely broken and 4 more where about to go. A lot of splicing and taping and everything is working fine again.

I bought a scantool from Rallitek last year and installed it. It wouldn't update readings and wouldn't read the codes. I called the manufacturer and he said subaru does something different in updating the data coming out of the OBDII receptacle from "standard". He had me go into the parameters section and change one parameter. It's been working fine ever since. I would suspect that the HF version is not smart enough to tell the difference.

Call 1stsubaruparts directly; ask for Jason in Parts and he'll get you the hoses you need. Toll free 1-866-528-5282. 1stsubaruparts used to be Auburn Subaru, but now is separate and not associated with them anymore I believe. But Jason is still there and very helpful to help bypass the crappy software on the website.

Do the high beams work? It is possible for both the low beam filaments to have burned out; have you actually checked the bulbs? I lost both low beams simultaneously on my '86 GL wagon (pre-cursor to your Loyale) and found that the alternator's voltage regulator had failed causing the voltage to spike to 17-18 volts. This burned out both low beams at the same time. It didn't burn out the high beams since they were not in use at the time. So check the headlamp bulbs and if necessary the alternator voltage at the battery when revving the engine to about 2500 rpm.

More specific to FRX rules but still some useful information here. http://www.rocksliderally.com/video/2341623:Video:262

Start with the simple stuff first. Are you sure that all the headlight bulbs are okay? A significant hit like the front end took might have knocked out one or more filaments. The headlights are controlled through relays. The relay might have become dislodged. I'm honestly not sure whether the headlamps are actully fused or work off of one of the fusible links. It's better to wait until someone else posts who has a working knowledge of the headlight power wiring (or a factory service manual).

When you finally get around to a tune-up, use only NGK sparkplugs. For some reason they just perform better and last longer than other brands.

ferox had the right idea and expressed it better than I. Haynes manual would be okay, but if you can find it try to get a copy of How to Keep your Subaru Alive (Volume 2). A much better beginner's manual. Find it on ebay or Amazon; it was $22 when new and you can find it for $10 to $30 if you look. Volume 1 only goes to 1984 but there's very little difference between the '84 and '85 Brats.

Even though your Brat is low mileage, I'm willing to bet that the fuel filter is clogged. It's under the car in the rear right next to the fuel pump. Also, you have a fuel separator in the engine compartment (looks like a fuel filter except it has 3 ports instead of two). I'd guess that neither have ever been changed. Considering the cold weather, I'd also suggest a bottle of dry gas added with the next tankful of gasoline. Do these two things (three things?) and you should be okay. If not, repost and there'll be more suggestions.

I'm a procrastinator. The bigger the job, the more I rationalize that I don't have the time to complete it all in a day or a weekend, so I don't start. The key to motivation is to start. You've pretty much sorted the job into smaller pieces, so decide which one is easiest (the wipers, I'll bet) and do it in the evening or next weekend. Then pick the next item on your reduced list and set aside some time to do it. Just keep jabbing away at each item on the list. If you had done one portion of the job every weekend that was free of other duties, then you would have completed this "chore" 1-1/2 years ago. This is what works for me; maybe it will work for you.

Underside of the ball joint?

If the guy who's looking for the wiring doesn't find it in the links, I'll take you up on that. Thank you. PM sent.

Works for me; I could copy it if you could send it; or buy it if necessary. I'm getting it for someone else and I'm a complete noob when it comes to the XT6

Anyone have access to a FSM and have the wiring for the power steering pump in a '91 XT6?

While we're thinking of lowering the rear....Don't lower it too much; if you're planning on carrying a load in the back you don't want the suspension dragging on something.

For the RallyX weather mavens: http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/getForecast?query=Stanwood,%20WA&wuSelect=WEATHER

No, I still have mine. But they look as good as mine.

I have a set of those; polished and expensive. Might be for sale.

Spalding Wrecking in Spokane will ship you a new radiator for about $100. Search for their 800 number. Good luck with the winter and getting the Brat completely back on the road.

Looking to see if this is a 4.111`or 3.900 transmission. This is NOT the same as the TY754VA1AA transmission. I think the 752 tranny came out of a Legacy (don't know the year) and it's not listed in the transmission chart posted in the USRM.