edrach

Current entry list can be found here: http://www.motorsportreg.com/index.cfm/event/event.status/uidEvent/BECB657A-9431-5BAC-808E087E506D9963 Note: double entries are not an error and reflect a dual entry with the girlfriend/wife as the second entry. Somehow the software doesn't know how to handle that.

Here it is: Sunday, March 22 Sunday, April 5 (with Primitive Rally School) Sunday, May 3 Sunday, May 31 (with Primitive Rally School) Friday - Sunday, June 26 - 28 (National)* Sunday, August 16 Sunday, September 20 Sunday, October 11 (with Primitive Rally School) As always, check the schedule periodically to make sure that there are no changes.

Why fix what's not broken? NGK plugs have always outperformed Champion, ND, Autolite that I have tried. I'm certainly not going to try a $25 plug (x4) to see if I might save a few pennies on gas.

Check all the vacuum lines for cracks or a loose fitting. Also, all of the little rubber caps that are used by Subaru to block a vacuum port.

Hitachi is definitely the easier one to work on. Ignition modules are quite common on lots of the early GL wagons; grab one the next time you're at the junkyard, swap it into your Brat to be sure it works and keep your original one as a spare in your glovebox. Do a search on Philbin Industries in Portland, OR for a decent rebuider of your distributor.

It depends how you drive it. If you can keep your lead foot controlled enough to never open the secondary, you should be able to get over 30 mpg. If the secondary opens up on a regular basis 25 mpg is about normal.

Absolutely, as evidenced by the mass of heavy guage wiring on the driver's side floor. A real shame since the car looked in pretty decent shape. Probably an opportunity to pull a working EJ22 out of the car for cheap.

I saw a pretty intact '96 Impreza sedan today at the Pick a Part yard in Olympia today. EJ22 with an automatic. Pretty decent shape with 175K on the odo. Reason it's in the yard appears to be a massive short in the dash that melted a goodly part of the instrument cluster surrounds. Blue color (code 340). I glommed the marker lights.....sorry.

I can't tell you anything about air shocks or lifts. But I know a little about shocks for the Brat. I installed KYB GR-2 shocks on my '84 Brat back when I was rallycrossing it and I liked them very much. They were not adjustable but KYB manufactures an adjustable shock (AGX) and maybe there may still be some stock available that will fit the Brat. I would suggest you check Whiteline in Australia to see what they might offer in the way of suspension improvements. They do have a US distributor (I think Rallitek in Portland is one) and you can order directly from them if you like. Your Brat is known as a Brumby in Australia I believe. http://www.whiteline.com.au/

Nothing to be sorry about. I agree with you that the Brat should be valued higher than a wagon. The sad issue is that NADA doesn't report that. I don't know why, but that's it. I sent them an email about 6 weeks ago providing supporting data for our view. I never heard back from them.

Did I not say in one of my previous posts that NADA is the lowest of the low valuations and is not required in WA state? But if you're getting a quote of $130 from the insurance company, the NADA number is pretty decent if you don't want to go through the hassle. The NADA value is horribly inaccurate (low) when establishing a "fair market value" for the Brat or any old Subaru. My opinion, force the insurance company into doing a market evaluation, but also do your own so they don't sand bag you with every rust bucket out there.

You may not buy that, but check the NADA values for the two vehicles and see what they say.

Oddly enough that's true. The NADA valuation is significantly lower for the Brat than for a wagon or sedan. Also consider reading a similar thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=94881

Skip is on the money. That connector can be a problem after all these years. The ignition switch, cable and connector are the same on many years and models of Subaru. Get to a junkyard and find a cable/switch that doesn't have the burn marks and replace it. To give you an example, we once replaced the ignition switch in a '93 Impreza with one out of an early GL wagon. The Impreza was a recovered stolen car where the ignition had been destroy. We plugged in the older GL cable, turned the switch, and drove the Impreza home.

Between the Hitachi and Weber, Weber hands down!

You can use it as often as you like, but if it's not improving anything, what's the point. If you have an EJ18, 260K on the engine, and an automatic tranny your gas mileage is just fine. The only reason I would spray seafoam directly into the intake is to clean the air control valve (sets your idle). If your idle is okay I wouldn't bother with the direct injection.

Ditto on using only OEM PCV valve and NGK plugs. A half can of Seafoam in the oil is just fine. I've done it on my Impreza and waited until my normal 2500 mile interval to change my oil; no point in changing it earlier IMHO. I get 22 to 27 mpg depending on the amount of highway driving I do. Winter time my gas mileage is lower than summertime (I don't know if that's due to the weather or the 10% ethanol in the gasoline). People who claim they are getting over 30 mpg are either very careful with their driving or "embellishing" the results. If you have an EJ18 with manual transmission, 30 mpg is not unattainable (an automatic transmission can cost you about 15% loss in mileag). However, my EJ22 with 5MT gets what I posted at the start of this paragraph. As to the O2 sensor, it can certainly affect your mileage, but I have 155K on my Impreza and I think it would be a waste of my money to replace it. Unless you're getting a check engine light for the O2 sensor, I wouldn't change it.

Erik says it's about a mile out of town. They won't release the exact address since it's private property and they don't want people annoying the landowner and "practicing" before the event. Check the nasioc thread since it has more information than I've been transferring over to here.

Online registration for the event can be found at: http://www.motorsportreg.com/index.cfm/event/event.advert/uidEvent/BECB657A-9431-5BAC-808E087E506D9963

Your welcome. It's such a pleasure to see some closure in a thread. So often someone starts a thread, gets suggestions and you never hear what, if anything, worked out.

Yes it would. That question has been answered on another forum already. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1671642 The real question is can you trust your BF with your car in a rallyX? I hope you get the car ready in time. This is certainly the shortest drive you'll get for a rallycross.

I have a viscous coupler going bad on our '99 Forester (5MT, not automatic). A new viscous unit is around $300 (my guess, I haven't called on it yet) plus the labor to install it. I'm thinking of searching around the wrecking yards until I find a similar transmission and pulling just the rear section and installing it on my transmission. What years of Subaru transmissions use the same viscous unit? Does the automatic have the same unit? Is it something that a junkyard dog like me can pull?

An earlier suggestion was to change the transmission fluid; not really applicable since you have a manual transmission. Torque bind: Currently I'm having that issue with our '99 Forester which has the 5MT transmission. Symptoms are when turning at full lock (first gear and slow), the car goes "thump, thump, thump" and doesn't move forward smoothly while turning. It happens when turned in either direction, and is even noticeable in reverse. I had my opinion confirmed by a professional Subaru mechanic this past weekend. The only real fix is to replace the viscous coupler in the center diff. Another fix would be to replace the transmission if you find a suitable used one at a low price. One thing I didn't see mentioned. Check the tread depth on all four tires. If one or two tires are different by even a small amount it can give you the same symptoms. Of course you have all the same size tires on all four wheels, right? Also verify the air pressures are the same in all tires.

Just want to chime in; I'll be making time. On another note, I'm looking for a good 5MT transmission for our '99 Forester (TY755VC1AA or equivalent). Unlikely you have one to bring back, but I had to ask. PM for details.

They went up to Stanwood today to inspect the field after the flooding last week. Here's the update: We took a drive up there today to check it out. The flooding and heavy rains have left standing water on the site. We're going to check it out in a week and see what it looks like. We might have enough to work with for a small course as it stands but we're hoping for more. Right now, Jon's right, we're having a regatta-x if it stays like this. So, if you own an r/c boat, start prepping it for the 2/15! It's only a 90-minute drive from Auburn so it's not as bad as Ed makes it sound. It's under two miles from Stanwood itself. -Erik