edrach

Not likely.

Passenger side door lock has the key code stamped in it; something like W135. Locksmith should be able to make a new key from that.

Weather-watch for Hillsboro: http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/getForecast?query=Hillsboro,%20OR&wuSelect=WEATHER

Official word from the rallycross chairman is that the event will be held at Hillsboro on Oct. 5th. Website will be updated when they can. http://www.oregonrally.com/rallycross.cfm

No problem; you did post what you needed in a clear, concise fashion as well as mentioning what car you have. Lots of people forget to post the model when they look for advice.

Looks like the new set-up no longer defines Old Gen and New Gen. Past use has defined Old Gen as the early GL and Loyale models up to '93 (EA71, EA81 and EA82 engines). New Gen referred to the Legacy and Impreza models and newer (EJ22 and EJ25 engines) typically found from '90 to the present. You might consider your Legacy old, but it's really part of the New Gen models. Either way, you'll still get good information from whoever posts a reply.

Sounds like a battery or terminal connector problem on the battery to me. But that being said, a moderator should move this over to the new gen forum.

True but you need to check the final drive ratio of the transmission. Oddly enough Fuji jumped around between 3.900 and 4.111 without any rhyme or reason. Check the tranny chart in the USRM to be sure you have the correct ratio for the rear diff. Changing the rear diff is child's play compared to what you're doing in changing the transmission. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=76617 Good luck with the swap. Having driven both the 3.900 and 4.111 gearbox in my '97 Impreza, the 4.111 is more fun and with an insignificant change in gas mileage.

Tri-Flow is what you want to loosen up the ignition tumbler. My locksmith swears by it.

You might find what you need here (from the USRM): http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/trannychart/trannychart.pdf

Jacob, I have a shop manual for an '84 Brat. I would think the wiring is the same. I'll take it to work and make copies of the wiring. I'll get the info to you somehow. Where are you again'? ---ed--- Also, there's a special oil that the locksmiths use. I'll think of it tomorrow. In any event I have it and I think I can spare a few drops!

If you install a switch to turn off anything, turn off the fan (low current and easy), not the battery power (high current and more difficult).

Welcome to the USMB. Nice to see another "mature" member posting with a long history of Subaru love. You'll find lots of useful information here.

Welcome to the USMB. Nice to see another Brat saved from the crusher. Best of luck with it. I used to rallycross our Brat until the new classes made it relatively uncompetitive. But we may bring it back with an EJ swap. I'll be watching yours as it comes along. Best of luck with it.

My problems with the IAC are usually high idle conditions with no CEL codes. Seafoam in the next tank of gas eliminates the problem every time after the gas is run through the engine. After about 6 months the problem comes back and I add the Seafoam again. I would think the Seafoam would free up the IAC; after that, you can still try adjusting it if needed.

Hint for getting the rear nuts off: Harbor Freight sells a portable impact tool for $90 which usually gets them off (220 ft-lbs rating on the tool). A cheaper way is to bring a long crowbar and wrap it around the lugnut studs in a manner to keep the hub from turning while you use a breaker bar on the large nut. Also, bring a sledge hammer and lots of rust penetrant to get the backing plates off (that's the hardest part of the job).

Done, check my STUFF photo album.

It's hard to say. I would suspect the fronts would interchange (I have 2003 WRX seats in my '97 Impreza which has the same seats as the earlier '93's and up) easily without any modification. However, the rears are a puzzle since the mountings for rear seats are often unique. Your best bet is to find someone willing to let you take a close look and try a "test" fitting.

Here's the first cut. Great job guys!

The Haynes manual is partially correct in that they aren't replaceable by the average home mechanic, but I know it can be done. Thanks for the clarification on Hope Valley. I know where Rhode Island is since I great up in NJ and my wife has relatives in RI. It's just that Hope Valley sounded like it might have been in California.

If anyone wants to see the pics, I will post them in my photo album. Things to note are the DF weber doesn't interfere with the distributor on the passenger side and there's no trouble with the linkage on the right. I got the linkage adapter at BowWow Auto Parts in Lynnwood, WA. If memory serves me, it cost around $20. In some ways I like this setup better than the DG.

I'm sorry for my "tongue in cheek" comment about the STi 6MT. But please don't even think about $700 for a new driveshaft. Check around at the junkyards in your area for a used one or have a local drive shop replace the u-joint on your current one. Good luck.

John has the correct idea. I don't know where Hope Valley is, but the local junkyard is your friend. The local (to me) Pull a Part yard charges under $30 for a complete driveshaft when they have the right car in the yard. Any MT Impreza wagon should have the correct driveshaft for you.

However the good news is, if you install the STi 6 speed MT, your automatic drive shaft is the correct length.

Automatic and MT driveshafts are different lengths. Sorry.