edrach

Did you check for spark immediately after it died? I found the ignition module on my '85 wagon would intermittently fail (Hitachi distributor) whenever it got warm. It looked like it had spark, but not enough to run the engine until it cooled down after 5 or 10 minutes.

Nice score, best of luck with it.

If you like, I'll send you a pic of my son's weber (df...); drop me an email address. I may have an adapter plate for you; let me check on it.

Check out Delta Cams, Tacoma, WA or send a note to Qman. I had an engine rebuilt for my '84 Brat with the Delta cams in it, but it wasn't a turbo.

I know it's a bit early, but any feedback or pics from the 1st day rallyX at Pomeroy?

My choice would be the '85 with manual tranny. But I'm a flat lander and don't know how either engine would behave at 6200 ft above sea level. I would think they are both the same. Turbos come with their own baggage and I personally hate automatics. As to the '85 that stalls after it runs a while, I'd bet a six pack on the fact that the fuel filter hasn't been changed in a long time.

Here it would go for around $1500 to $2000. Don't forget that with that mileage you're due for timing belt and seal service, brake work, and shocks. Once that's done, you should be in fine shape for another 100K miles. Check NADA price (that's low ball figure) and Kelly Blue Book (that would be the high end price); this car should be somewhere in between.

Actually the dfav is just fine. I have one mounted on my son's brat and the only issue was re-routing the throttle cable. In some respects it fits better than the dgav that I have on my brat.

Sounds like you have a plan. I wish you the best of luck with the move and hope everything goes according to plan. Keep on flagging!

I've gotten about 15% better mileage with the weber, mostly because for normal driving the secondary hardly ever opens. But when you need it the power is there. Only trouble I ever had with the weber is the fact that it can freeze up in cold weather (make sure you use that plastic shield in front to keep it nice and warm in the wintertime).

Here's the flyer; just for you guys out in eastern Washington. http://www.pacificrallygroup.com/

It's a great mod for the Brat. Check ebay and craigslist for a better price. Also, consider used; they usually sell for $100 to $150 and if you decide you don't like it you won't loose as much money in re-selling it.

Good luck with the move; I hope it works out for you. Do you think the price of housing in Portland will be any better in 5 years?

Not a lot of information posted, but here's the link: http://www.oregonrally.com/Event_Detail.cfm?EventID=557

Thanks Jamie. I'll look for them. Yea, we all had fun. What surprised me was the number of people who tent camped at the site. We wussed it out and spent the night in a motel in town:); I couldn't have slept with the constant snap, crackle and pop of the overhead high tension wires! The family doing the food concession also did a great job. Not having to run into town for lunch was a plus. I hadn't planned to do any fun runs, but took one of them out on my street tires. I'm not sure whether I enjoyed it more or she did. I think we might have gotten a convert from among the local people. Results are up! Great job! Thanks. http://offcamberevents.com/events/underthewires/rx091308.pdf http://offcamberevents.com/events/underthewires/rx091408.pdf

Dust was everywhere; they couldn't water the course enough (altho they tried:eek:). Sunday's run, the ground finally gave up and became saturated with water and it became a mudfest in spots. Great event however! Technical course designed by Qman which was quite challenging (Saturday). Not quite the 2 to 3 minute runs that were advertised but the top guns were running in the 1:45 range. JRach smoked the competition with all of his runs in the 1:30's. Tight spots cost the unwary cones for not paying attention. I was being careful and never made it out of first:mad:. Sunday's run was technical also and looked fast. My first walkthrough made me think I'd be in 2nd most of the time. Turns out, I only got into 2nd for about a quarter of the course. The ground finally was saturated in water in spots with standing puddles in amongst the muddy parts. An intriquing feature of the course was the quick changes in traction without a difference in appearance. It made for interesting corrections to your line that one didn't expect at all. As difficult as Sunday was I found it more challenging and fun than Saturday since there was less dust (not much less, but less:rolleyes:). Both day's scores and awards were handed out promptly at the finish. I found the event well received for a number of different reasons.

My EJ22 is a little rough at idle too, but I don't think it's an issue since it smoothes out almost instantly. I suspect the harmonic balancer but I don't plan on changing it just yet. As to the p/s pump. There are two rebuild kits from Subaru (you'll need both) for about $30 each. Jason in parts (1-866-528-5282....formerly Auburn Subaru) can give you a good price and will ship. The kit doesn't include the bearing; probably because it won't be bad. I posted the bearing number somewhere on the board if you want to do it anyway. The kits are cheap compared to the price of a new pump (hold on to your hat!). Fairly easy job, just make sure you see which way the vanes go in because it'll fall apart in your hands if you're not careful. '93 with EJ18 is a great little car. Resist the effort to install 15" or 16" wheels/tires; car is a stone with them. Goes like a raped ape on 14" tires. Best of luck with it. Here's my old one: I miss it. Upgraded to a '97 Impreza wagon; still fun but not as much as my '94.

An earlier poster had it correct, you have a 4x140mm bolt pattern. The wheels link will tell you what's available. Shipping can be steep; I just shipped a set of four alloy wheels in two boxes pretty much cross country for just under $60 via ground DHL. Mine were alloy wheels and the two boxes weighed just under 35 pounds each. That should give you a ball park idea of what it would cost to get your wheels from the west coast where the rust isn't quite so bad. Having your current wheels sandblasted and powder coated might be an option considering the cost of shipping. Also, check craigslist for wheels; every once in a while you get lucky. Thirteen inch wheels go pretty cheap on this coast....$40/set of four and up.

I'm glad you found them; I was beginning to think they got lost in the mails.

No smoking either; unless there's some real rain out there the entire area is a tinderbox.

I'll try to look; I know there are two '95 Legacy's in Lynwood's PAP right now. Thanks for the heads up on the air intake; that'll save me the effort.---ed---

Gen1 and gen2 wheel wells might not be interchangeable.

Wheels shipped DHL yesterday.

http://www.oregonrally.com/Event_Detail.cfm?EventID=556 Weather watch at http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/getForecast?query=Hillsboro,%20OR&wuSelect=WEATHER

Single/range and dual/range are the same. The difference is for the turbo (25 spline) and non-turbo (23 spline). There are other minor differences but they are not nearly as important. Somewhere someone posted the page from the FSM which pointed out the differences in part number, spline count, and shaft strength.