edrach

What you mention is the difference between the 25 tooth and 23 tooth splines. If you put the 25 tooth joint on a 23 tooth stub, you'll shear off the roll pin the first time you apply power (been there and done that).

Amazing, it might have actually rained out there today!

Unless the laws have changed in 25 years, all those roads are legal. I set up a rally for the BMW car club through there many years ago. Ground clearance on my 2002 wasn't the best, but I didn't have any trouble then. Nice to see those roads are still available.

Should be in the mail today.

Boulder? You're in Colorado? Lots of USMB members in that area. Your District of Columbia listing mis-led me. Smart to be careful; you have to live with being overanxious if the worst happens.

I'm with the bad axle. When the inner (DOJ) fails it has all the symptoms you describe.

PM sent.

Thanks, one learns something new everyday. I was working from the FSM for my '97 Impreza. In going back to the FSM, it doesn't list a code P0519 (jumps from P0505 to P600) and the diagram for the P1517 code doesn't show anything related to the neutral switch. However, I can't argue with the link you posted (especially the endwrench article). Thanks. That link should go into the USRM for ease of finding it again. Just as an aside, I've had IAC issues with my Impreza (idle at 1500) which never kicked out a CEL code. Luckily Seafoam cured that issue for me. But now I think I understand why it didn't kick out a code.

For $75 I would likely go new. However, Pull a Part yards in Tacoma, Lynnwood, and Smokey Point sell them for around $20 with a 30 return window (save the receipt and marking). You can usually find an acceptable one if you're lucky.

And I have them; I'll try to get them in the mail tomorrow.

If I'm not mistaken, this is a 5 speed manual. I'm not sure if the 5MT has a neutral switch or if it really cares.

Comments from four-fleet-feet are right on the money. With the limited info I have, Kelly Blue Book has the price at just under $11K, NADA at $9K. This is for a car without a malfunction; i.e. your P1507 code or a transmission leak. Again get a carfax report to insure the mileage is legitimate and take it to a Subaru savvy mechanic for a check out and then negotiate the price from there. For a private sale without any warranty, I really feel $11K is very high. I would suspect a local Subaru dealer can beat that with a similar Outback and give you some warranty. I don't want to discourage you, but you're wise to be careful. Re-reading your earlier post, regarding the leak out the rear of the transmission. I have 145K on my Impreza and the rear seal is just fine. That seal should be taken care of; and it might be indicative of a car with more than 70K on it. There must be USMB members in your area that can suggest a qualified Subaru shop to take it to for an inspection. Speak up guys!

P1507---idle control malfunction. Idle is not where the ECU expects it to be. A warmed up engine idles around 750rpm; around 900 with the air conditioning on. This could be as simple as a dirty air filter; as bad a faulty idle air control valve. $11K for a car with a check engine light sounds high to me. Which model outback is it? I don't want to discourage you, but you should get a qualified mechanic to check this out for you.

PM me your mailing address; I might have some handy.

You are probably correct about the heat shield causing the rattle. As to the CEL code, take it for a test drive and stop at an auto parts store and have them read it for you. Most places will do that for free; call ahead to make sure. You really need to know what the code is; might be cheap and easy to fix, and it could also indicate a potentially expensive repair. Once you know the code, get an estimate of repair from a reputable shop. All that being said, I ALWAYS take a potential sale to a shop that I trust and pay them the $100 or so for a pre-buy inspection. I certainly don't do this for every car I look at, but if I decide to buy it, that's the first thing I will do with it before I pay the seller. Also, it doesn't hurt to do a carfax check and look at Kelly Blue Book and NADA pricing for that car. Remember KBB prices are optimistic and favor the seller. NADA prices are low and favor the buyer. This Outback should fall somewhere between those two numbers. Good luck with your purchase and it's nice to see someone smart enough to ask before he buys the car.

No problem; 140 ft-lbs is the magic number, altho a little more wouldn't hurt. It is wise to recheck after a 1000 miles or so since they have been known to loosen. Actually, the nut doesn't loosen, but if there was any dirt lodged on the axle where it butts against the hub, that disappears with use and then it appears that the axle nut has loosened.

I have a set of four alloy rims...premier type; I can ship them to you with lugnuts and center caps for $100 complete (ground shipping included in that price). The clear coat is peeling and they could certainly use re-finishing of some sort, but they are good working wheels. Here's a pic of one of the four; you can see the rest in my Stuff for Sale album in my photo section.

Weather watch in effect now! http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/getForecast?query=Cle%20Elum,%20WA&wuSelect=WEATHER

Have you been paying attention to the clutch pedal adjustment? As the clutch disk wears out normally, the adjustment tightens up and eventually you have no pedal play at all. The effect is the same as "riding the clutch" and it will start to slip since it is not fully engaged. I've put off many a clutch jobs on various subes just by readjusting the clutch pedal play.

I haven't heard as yet.

Jon, I think you left out a few turns!

Here's the important part starting on I-405 heading south from Bothell. 4: Merge onto I-405 S toward BELLEVUE/RENTON. 5: Merge onto I-90 E via EXIT 11 toward SPOKANE. ------------------------------------------------------------73.5 mi 6: Take EXIT 84 toward CLE ELUM/S. CLE ELUM. ------------------------------------------------------------------0.5 mi 7: Turn SLIGHT RIGHT onto 1ST ST W. -----------------------------------------------------------------------------0.6 mi 8: Turn RIGHT onto S CLE ELUM WAY/W RAILROAD ST. Continue to follow S CLE ELUM WAY. -------------------0.3 mi 9: S CLE ELUM WAY becomes ROSSETTI WAY. ---------------------------------------------------------------------0.0 mi 10: ROSSETTI WAY becomes S CLE ELUM WAY. --------------------------------------------------------------------0.6 mi 11: Forced LEFT onto LOWER PEOH POINT RD.----------------------------------------------------------------------2.8 mi 12: Turn RIGHT onto WATSON CUTOFF RD. -------------------------------------------------------------------------1.1 mi 13: Turn LEFT onto UPPER PEOH POINT RD. -------------------------------------------------------------------------1.6 mi 14: End at 8430 Upper Peoh Point Rd Cle Elum, WA 98922-8410

Jeez Jon, you're no better than google!

Not without a decent size map and street names. I'll be using mapquest!

We did luck out on the weather. Jeanne and I continued about 50 miles south for a few days at Nehalem Bay and some more camping. Rain Sunday night, off and on rain on Monday (more during the night), light rain on Tuesday and a deluge that night around 3AM. We left this morning during off and on rain which turned into an all day deluge that didn't clear up until we got back to Olympia.