edrach

Oh, that sounds ugly.

I have quite a selection of used, good alternators including a couple of XT6 versions. I'm not sure if any of those will work for you, but you're welcome to come by and look (or I can send you pics).

So what happened today at Brooklyn?

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

Only difference in ride was that the KYBs were a little stiffer. Some people don't like them because they feel too harsh on their daily driver; I think they are just fine.

I've used that model KYB on my Brat (rears only), all around on my '86 GL, all around on my '91 Legacy (lasted 120K miles and installed my second set this past year). A quality shock for not much money considering how well it works and lasts. I'm using KYB AGXs on my Impreza.

The family that vacations together stays together.

Vibration during acceleration that goes away during trailing throttle is a chronic symptom of a bad DOJ on the axle. Even newly rebuilt axles can be bad. Notify the place where you got them. I'm almost certain it's your axles.

Congradulations. Glad to hear everyone is feeling fine. Now you have one of each! Jeanne and I never figured it out....had to settle for three of the same....but they're okay.

A much nicer brooklyn. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=889

XT6 Alternator works reasonably...90A max output is typical. I think I have one; if you want to try it out, it'll be available when I'm back from vacation.

Last possibility: if you remove the plastic cowl under the steering column and ignition switch and follow the cable down from the ignition switch to the first plastic connector (about 6"); connector is usually pink but might be white. Examine it for a brown or black discoloration in the plastic. If you see that you have a bad connection with that wire and you're dropping most of your voltage there. Unplug it and re-plug it a few times and that will get you going temporarily. Easiest fix is get a ignition switch and cable from the wrecking yard (Pull a Part is your friend); or wire a connection around the offending terminal. Let us know what you find.

I've got the door handle. I can get it to your tormorrow Russ unless you feel like taking the bike out for a ride today. Yes, it was a nice party. Too bad we missed the boisterous portion by leaving early. Thanks for having us over.

Good point!

It appears that the re-schedule date is August 24th. Check out www.oregonrally.com for updates.

Aba4430 is correct, you should fuse the line from the battery to the fan. In the event anything downsteam of the battery should ground out (including the fan), you would smoke the wires (and maybe more) in that circuit. Also, if you're drawing power from underneath the dash for the lamp and relay coil, the line you use is likely already fused so you wouldn't need that fuse once you verify that fact.

Just to clarify McDave's comments. There are two full lines on the overflow bottle. The lower line is the proper level when the engine has had overnight to cool down. The upper line is the full mark for when the engine is fully warmed up. Now let's try to keep everything simple and not suspect the worst. First, replace the radiator cap with a new, OEM cap. The radiator cap is actually a two way valve. When the engine is warming up the coolant expands and the cap opens up when the pressure reaches 13 psi and allows the coolant to flow into the overflow bottle. When the drive is over and the car is parked, the return valve in the radiator cap allows the coolant back into the radiator. All this works fine as long as the plastic tubing is tight at both ends and has no cracks, holes or anything that will impede the siphon action of the coolant flow (flow out is by pressure; flow back is by siphon action). The other culprit is if there is an air bubble in the coolant large enough to disrupt the flow of coolant driven by the water pump. If the bubble lodges in the water pump, it stops pumping coolant and the temp guage suddenly shoots up; often momentarily. Plus if the air bubble gets to the overflow line, it allows coolant into the overflow bottle but disrupts the siphon return of coolant into the radiator. Now you have too much in the overflow tank and not quite enough in the radiator. A sticky radiator cap can impede this flow in either, or both, directions with similar results. The technique that McDave described to you is a way to insure that there are no longer any air bubbles in the coolant large enough to screw up the system. Air in the system has all the ugly symptoms of a bad head gasket: intermittant overheating and excess coolant in the overflow tank. All this being said (sorry), an experienced mechanic can eliminate the air bubble if it's there as well as run a hydro carbon test on the coolant to see if there is an actual head gasket issue. So have the car checked and put your mind at ease........and let us know how you made out. I wish you the best outcome; I love every Subaru I've ever owned and wouldn't trade any of them in prematurely (even the "naughty" ones that gave me some grief).

85K is pretty early to have HG issues but it's certainly possible. A friend has a '99 Legacy GT and managed to get 150K out of his 2.5L engine so you are probably okay. But it should get checked out by a reputable shop.

The coolant was blue??? Sounds like windshield washer fluid to me. Washer reservoir is pretty close to the firewall. Overflow for the coolant is mounted just to the right of the radiator and pretty close to the front of the car. I've never heard of blue coolant; green or orange, yes but not blue. Doesn't mean it can't be blue but it would be unusual.

Just curious, but the garage wasn't Suburb (on Lake City Way), or was it?

None of the previous answers are incorrect; the symptom you see could be thermostat, the fan not coming on when stopped, the water pump or other things. Worst case: imminent head gasket failure; Best case, an air bubble in the coolant that needs to be purged. In any event, unless you're a home mechanic I'd suggest taking it to someone you can trust who won't charge you for a head gasket you don't need but will diagnose the problem and fix it. Your good fortune is you live in Seattle. You won't find a better shop than Smart Service (http://www.smart-service.com/) in Shoreline or Mukilteo. Tell them someone from the USMB sent you. It's not that I don't trust dealers, but I've always searched for the independent shop that has quality mechanics. Besides they are generally less expensive.

One last thought, if the timing cover wasn't properly installed, it will certainly rub on the harmonic balancer. Make sure thefront covers are all evenly seated on the rear parts.

Interesting, looking at the Addco rear bar on another member's Brat, I saw how the Whiteline swaybar needed to be mounted. They are virtually identical (if I remembered the name correctly).

Is the bolt tight? Get that checked fast because if it chews up the woodruff key and crank it is a very expensive repair. When the engine is idling, does the crank pulley (harmonic balancer) wobble. It will wobble for one of two reasons: Bolt has loosened or the rubber insert between the inner and outer portion is compromised. Either fault should be corrected sooner rather than later. Worst case for the repair (BEFORE anything gets worse), is a new harmonic balancer and the labor to put it in (less than 1/2 hour).