edrach

I think that's what GD said. Just be sure that you'll be able to weld in the portion that he said. If I remember correctly you have to cut a part of the original bar off to get it to fit. I have neither the welding stuff for that install so I opted for the Whiteline; more expensive but do-able for me.

Ben T. recently posted they will re-schedule if they find a venue. Sadly, I think that the Hillsboro site might by going away.

Sometimes..... Happy Birthday; I hope you have many more.

Check the upper heater hose and look for the round mound attached to the engine; two bolts and the theremostat is inside the round dome. Use an OEM replacement; they do work better.

I don't think we had to weld the Whiteline version. Worst part was figuring out how it needed to be mounted since the generic instructions had it pointed in the wrong direction for the Brat.

Google is my friend:http://www.whiteline.com.au/default.asp?page=/swaybars.htm Local supplier is Rallitek in Portland. I'm sure there are others. http://www.rallitek.com/ Tell them edrach at the USMB sent you.

It overheats in town at low speeds or idling. Check the fan which doesn't sound like it's coming on. Problem could be the fan, the thermoswitch mounted on the radiator, or a missing ground wire (not replaced with the new radiator). Check the thermoswitch; if it has only one terminal, the ground return goes through the ground wire; if that's missing, it's the cause of your problem.

Whiteline makes a rear swaybar for the brat. I installed one on my '84 and it improved handling quite a bit. Only downside is that Whiteline's instructions are generic and totally useless for the Brat. I believe I posted our installation on the USRM a while back. Here's the thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=76011

Fog lights: Use a relay to activate them. A fused 12V line to the relay contacts and then to the foglights. Coil activation can go to either the low or high beam, whichever you wish.

Are you removing the engine or the transmission? If I remember correctly, it's 5. Two around the starter motor, one more on top and two nuts on the bottem.

Our "work" Brat was due for its emissions test this month. I cleaned up the air filter, set the mixture halfway between rich and lean, adjusted the idle to around 975 and took it down to emissions. Passed with flying colors. Gotta love that weber! Since it's an '84 this will be the last emissions test this car will have to undergo unless it moves out of state.

Standard stuff here: when was the last time the air filter was changed? Plugs? Ignition wires? Is the car an automatic or 5MT? AWD or FWD? Need more input.

Another tip for your aging tranny. I had a '91 Legacy wagon which I bought with 93K miles on it which had a slight crunch going into 2nd. I changed the gearoil at that time with Redline 75W-90NS; after 5K of use the crunch when away. At 195K, I changed the gearoil again (a little past the 30K interval:eek: ) and used Lucas 75W-90 gearoil; the crunch came back big time in almost all shifting. Three thousand miles later, I drained the Lucas gear oil and put in the Redline 75W-90NS gearoil. No more shifting difficulties. Sold the car to a friend at 200K. Transmission is still working fine at 210K.

I hate to rub salt in the wounds, but didn't I offer you a used, working MAF for $50 shipped? If nothing else, now I may ask more for the next one. Glad to hear your car is fixed.

I have some used rockers that I cut out of a "donor" brat a while back. Not perfect but if you're interested, drop me an email address and I'll send some pics. It'll certainly be less expensive than new (if they're available) even with the shipping.

Unless you have the beginning of rust in the area where you'd like to have the carrier. But your other points are excellent.

Beat me to it!

If Smart Service sells this kit it is definitely reputable. Smart NEVER does anything less than perfect.

Subaru has two types of LSD; the earlier LSD type from the early '80's was a clutch type. The more recent, VLSD is a viscous type. I think he was thinking about the early version.

I'm not the fastest mechanic in the world, but the first clutch I did on my '91 Legacy took 10 hours start to finish. Worst part was making love to the tranny from underneath trying to line it up and get it in.I didn't have a very good transmission jack. Some years later I had occasion to replace the engine on the same Legacy. I did have a hoist and it took me just over 4 hours to pull one and install the other. Doing the clutch with the engine out is easier than doing it from under the car. You do the math and you'll know which way I'm doing the next clutch replacement.

Give Jason (in Parts) a call (toll free 1-866-528-5282) at what used to be Auburn Subaru. If it can be gotten from Subaru he'll find it.

You can certainly use the original two piece driveline if you wish. Only difficulty is the center bearing carrier will not bolt in and you'll have to fab some way of doing that. When I installed mine with Jerry's help we originally installed it that way but decided to go with the one piece version later since there wasn't enough good metal to really secure the center bearing carrier. Jerry had a driveline made for me at a shop near Yakima. I don't remember what it cost, but it was definitely not $300....more like $125 or less. Came with zerks fittings which I prefer over permanently sealed.

How's your oil consumption? I had the mis-fire on #2 and MAF errors on my '97 Imp. Turns out I had bad oil rings on number 2 cylinder and the plug was badly fouled. MAF likely due to my K&N filter; replaced that with stock and installed another MAF, replaced the engine for the oil consumption issue (bad rings on #2) and haven't had any problems since. I have used good MAF if you want one ($50 shipped).

Andy, submit this to the USRM! A great read even if I do prefer my 5MT.

Front main seal. Give up on autozone; order your parts from Subiegal or Jason at Mike Scarf Subaru. Call me for 'phone numbers if you need them.