edrach

Interesting, I checked your pics and your kit is different from mine. Mine had the same metal gasket, large o-ring, TWO small o-rings, AND an oil seal. As I said earlier, no bearing. Apparently, different pumps have different innards although the pump portion with the vanes looks identical unless the size is different.

Interesting that Fuji would use differenent bearings for essentially the same job. I had to go out to the car and check the parts I pulled out of the pump (addiction means not being able to throw anything away:rolleyes: ). I mis-reported the bearing number. I should have reported a 6203L8 manufactured by NTN. I'm sorry for my error but I know I put the right one in. I repair lab equipment for a living and we happened to have 6203's in stock. Sealed on both sides and I'm sure what we use is high quality since they are used in electric motors that spin up to 20,000 rpm. It's also possible that someone rebuilt my pump before I did. I'll try to be more accurate in reporting next time.

There are places with a view of the Columbia River, but to see the ocean you'd have to go west a few miles further. We plan to camp at Nehalem Bay for a week following WCSS10 but that's about 45 minutes west and south of Astoria. A number of places with an ocean view between fairgrounds and Nehalem Bay. I'm sure the Astoria Chamber of Commerce would be glad to let you know what's in the vicinity. Get your reservations now, because the Oregon shore fills up quickly.

Thanks Zap, I thought it was just me. Glad to see one of the young bucks having trouble with the site too.

I just rebuilt the P/S pump on my EJ22 Impreza. I don't know if it's the same or not, but I would bet the innards are. Rebuild kit (List price around $35) from Subaru came without the bearing (???) but the original bearing was okay but I figured I'd replace it anyway since you have to press it off to replace the main oil seal. Bearing number was 6302. Only problem I had was when the impeller separated from the rest and the little vanes all fell out:eek: . But it all went together again (curved part of the vanes is OUT). And be warned, it is a messy job since you can't get all the ATF out no matter how much you try.

Zap, looks like www.scca.com; this from Paul Eklund: Remember at National Qualifier events, there is no limit to the number of runs and none get dropped for scoring. Hopefully we can get 8 on Sat and another 4 on Sunday... Also, there is CONTINGENCY MONEY available from VW, SUBARU, and TEAM DYNAMICS Doesn't look like you need to pre-register for the RALLYCROSS, but you do need to pre-register for CONTINGENCIES (see form on scca.com) and of course be a full SCCA member... Good luck finding it; I always have trouble navigating around the SCCA website.

Take it from this junkyard dog...not sure whether they changed this with the '94, but the earlier Justys you had to lift the engine a little to get the alternator out to replace it!

Sorry to butt in here, but I read carfreak's comment about the VR being obsolete. I work on lab equipment that is sometimes more than 25+ years old. If there's any identification numbers on the VR post them up and I might be able to find a source that has old stuff like that still in stock. One of the best is www.findchips.com/avail which queries 20 common databases for the part you're searching for. I hope this helps. Corrected findchips link. Sorry.

They are brown, not beige but they would likely go with your interior.

Thanks, big Daddy! Best wishes back at you!

Link to the pics comes up "page cannot be displayed". Is it just me or is the link broken? Car looks unbelievable! Great buy. Best of luck with it.

I stopped by today but didn't run for personal reasons. A nice turn-out and pleasant weather. About time PRG got lucky. Someone post info please.

Yes there was; when I saw it last week the disks were there and the rear diff was gone; another LSD I missed.

Went up to Smokey Point today. Nothing new but I was looking for some parts. Found a Legacy wagon (white) in Row G2 with two XT6 alloy wheels inside the car. If anyone is looking for them, they're there for the taking. Found a Legacy wagon in Row H2 with brown LEATHER seats. I've never seen anything like that and if I still had a Legacy and it was a brown interior I would own them now. They seemed to be in excellent condition. I forgot the row number but there was an XT4 with rear disks of the FWD variety if anyone needs those. Sorry Sparkster, CRS got me today and I forgot to grab the door handle for your car. I'll try not to forget it next time I'm there.

Russ, best of luck with it. If you need some help with the A/C I could lend a hand. I'll look out for some non-air suspension parts for you; what else will fit the XT6?

Have you replaced the fuel filter on the car? No, not the one that looks like a fuel filter in the engine compartment, but the one right after the fuel pump (yes, under the car). Normally, this causes fuel starvation, but I've had one case where it caused erratic running as the fuel pump tried to overcome the flow restriction.

I wouldn't install any water pump that wasn't OEM. Also the oil pump could use a new o-ring if I understood the mechanic properly. I've found that not rushing the removal of the timing cover studs helps in not twisting the nut out of the rears. A liberal application of a quality rust penetrant would help also (Kroil or Yield are the best; PB blaster isn't nearly as good). Replacing the studs with never-seeze will make it easier the next time you do a belt. The rear covers can be found easily at a wrecking yard; just make sure the nuts are not spun.

Judging how few running Brats are left, the value is bound to increase. Looks like mine is looking better and better.

Cool, still want to buy mine? If you got $3800 I should maybe raise the price on mine. Just kidding.

Faulty bearing is usually a growl or loud screech. A leaking pump is very quiet. To narrow down the source of the noise get a long screwdriver and hold in on a non moving portion of the pump and put your ear to the handle. This will amplify the noise and you can isolate where it's coming from that way. Just stay away from all the moving parts while you're doing this.

OEM parts for a complete change (belt, idlers, tensioner, and water pump) are over $500 even with a good discount. Also figure about 4 hours labor for the job; close to $1000 from a dealer; not much less from an independent shop. Ask around.

I stumbled across this by accident and it looks pretty cool. Unfortunately, It's not free and I'm not ready to spend my money without knowing if it's very useful (been there and done that with too many CDs on ebay:mad:) Anyway, anyone used this before and found it useful? http://techinfo.subaru.com/html/index.jsp

'93 driver's door handle. I'll see what I can do this coming Saturday.

Check my write-up in the USRM on removing the axles without taking the hubs apart. Quite easy on the EJ cars.

I couldn't tell you about the difference in performance, but I've installed both. The DF version is a mirror image of the DG and I preferred it since the throttle cable was easier to configure with the DFV. Performance wise it didn't make a noticeable difference on my two Brats.