edrach

Lucky me, I had pulled an MAF a while ago at Pull a Part. Turns out it's the right one for my car and I put it in last night. So far after 20 miles of running, I haven't seen the engine stumble. It'll take a few days before I believe it's really fixed. I'll post updates.

Thanks to both of you for the info. Yes; the intake is all stock. I haven't messed with that yet.

'97 Impreza L (EJ22, 138K miles, manual tranny). Car stumbled a bit yesterday (engine lost power momentarily but picked right up again). This happened a number of times in 30 or 40 miles and it finally threw a code at me (CEL). My scantool came up with a P0102 which points to the MAF. I took out the MAF and applied some of the CRC brand MAF cleaner although the MAF looked perfectly clean. Also, my scantool allows me to monitor the MAF output and that looks good also without any glitches. Last night after cleaning the MAF and clearing the code, I took it out for a "spirited" run of 15 miles without any problems. This morning on the way to work (20 miles) all was normal. Later going out for lunch, the engine stumbled 3 or 4 times in 2 miles. No CEL as yet. So is this how a MAF fails or is that code mis-leading me? Never had any problems like this before and I'm looking for opinions, suggestions, etc.

Hard to do from underneath with an OBS since the catalytic converter is just where you want to use the drift tool.

Oh super disappointment, I thought you were trying to get together a rallycross discussion. Oh well, have a nice meeting anyway.

Get the correct drift tool; a Craftsman 3/16" version (Sears #42885WF) works for me and buy a cheap 12" long 3/8" socket extension. Jam the drift tool into the extension and that will allow you to knock the roll pin out more easily. The 12" extension will not be good for anything else, but that's why you buy a cheap one. Good luck with the repair.

Yes; lots of documented posts indicating that newly rebuild axles arrive with a bad inner joint. Vibration under acceleration which goes away instantly under deceleration is a "classic" symptom for a bad DOJ.

I'm not sure where you're located now, but I can suggest Pacific Import Auto in the south end or Smart Service in the north end for service work. You'll find both of them more knowledgeable than your average (or above average) dealer.

Looks like the mud tires again for this weekend. http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/getForecast?query=McCleary%2C+WA

Glad to see you got it done. I knew it was possible so I don't know why your dealer couldn't make it work. Ah well, all's well that ends well.

Here it is: Lockworks 16510 Redmond Way Redmond, WA 98052-4447 (425) 883-3334 not yet rated Rate it web site e-mail this business add to my places Hours of Operation Call for hours Specials

I just realized you're local. Try the Locksmith in Redmond on the main drag. I'll try to get you a name and address, but if you take 520 into Redmond and get off at the Redmond/Fall City exit (just before it turns into Avondale Rd) and make a left onto the main road and go underneath 520. When it becomes one way in your direction check for the locksmith on the right hand side (less than 1/2 mile). They have always been right up front with me on anything I've wanted; the older Brat locks are a real pain to re-key. Good luck.

Go to a wrecking yard and pull the passenger side to see how it's done. There is no key code on the driver's side.

If you still have the passenger side lock assembly, the key code is stamped into the outside of the assembly. It'll take you 15 minutes to pull and look at it; 5 minutes without pulling it with a flashlight and mirror. Good luck.

I bought a laptop version a while back for around $90 shipped. You can download their software for free and play with it a bit before you decide to buy. Model BR-3. Works for me and I like it. www.obddiagnostics.com.

Wow, that looks great. A real pain to install, but worth every minute.

I have a good one (maybe both) for you. $35 each shipped. Drop me a PM and I'll check which side(s) I have.

If you have an event planned on the west coast, you should have it on this calendar since it's the one that everyone checks to avoid conflicts. *Edit: see attachment.... 2008_Western_Rally_Calendar.pdf

5 speed manual. Better pickup, more control, better gas mileage. No brainer.

As to your flasher question...no; shouldn't be related. However, check the voltage output of your alternator at 2000 to 4000 rpm. If the voltage regulator is shot, voltage greater than 15V is produced and could cause both the headlight bulb as well as flasher bulb to burn out. Also have your battery checked; it acts as a large capacitor on the electrical system (as well as starting your car). If it's bad, it could let voltage spikes pass through and damage your lighting system. Potentially it could take out your ECU also. Time to have someone thoroughly check out the alternator and battery.

Check NADA or Edmunds price; KBB is known for being unrealistically high. Rule of thumb: Seller's will quote KBB price, dealer's will quote NADA when offering a trade-in.

They are adjustable. Sounds like yours was adjusted too tight. Using a dime for a feeler guage slacken/tighten the cable until you can just slip the dime between the coils of the large spring. That should get you close; then if it still binds, loosen it some more. If it doesn't hold on the hill, tighten it some more.

http://www.challengedriving.com/Alcan%202008%20day%209.htm Cool, this the second time that Gary Webb has won the event.

Here's a case of taking a look. With no attention to the brakes in three years (45K miles????) you likely need pads. But don't buy anything without looking for yourself. Jack up the front wheels, remove the wheels, and inspect the brake pads and rotor. With less than 1/8th inch of pad left it would be a good time to replace them. If the rotor surface is still without significant gouges, you might not have to replace the rotors; but with new pads, adding another 15 minutes and $28 per side to the job will insure that you'll not have to do the job again for at least another three years. There's sufficient info in previous posts about cost/quality issues. I'm partial to OEM on brake parts, but that's just me. Good quality NAPA pads and rotors would work also unless you're a most aggressive driver (but if you've gone three years without thinking about it, you probably don't need to consider the most expensive options). Turning rotors is $15 to $20 per side, so another $8 for new is cheap compared to the slight loss of braking power for turned rotors. I'd go with new since there will be much less down time if you're doing the work yourself. So grab your tools and take a look and decide. You've got all the information you need. Good luck.

Craigslist ads that feature working Subaru trannies run $250 to $650 depending on age and condition; unless there was something wrong with it, it should be right up there near the top of that price range. To insure a proper ratio match, include the rear diff for another $100 to $150 unless it's a VLSD in which case it's worth more.