Dickensheets

The thermostat may be failing to open all the way. When you are driving there is a load (more fuel burned, more heat) than when you are parked and just revving. Try a new thermostat and report back. Also visually inspect the radiator hoses for flat or collapsed sections. Also check to make sure that your radiator fans are coming on when it gets hot like that. I agree that those wx conditions are a bit cool for this type of problem but you need to eliminate the small stuff. rd

I have 185,000 miles on my clutch. I'm the original owner. My brake pads lasted 154,000 miles before screeching one day on the way to the store. I was bummed. rd

I thought humboldt was a county. Just kidding, I'm originally from Willow Creek. (Eastern Humboldt) rd

I did ball joints recently on the 97. I pickleforked them off (and replaced with new) and to get them back in the cup I put pressure on the bottom of the control arm with a bottle jack, worked good. The car was on jack stands for the entire procedure. rd

You'll want some jack stands from sears or autozone. It will save you a ton of time doing both wheels at once instead of lifting and lowering lifting and lowering. An 8" c-clamp may come in handy for compressing the caliper piston. And...my standard gem of advice: Get a Haynes Manual, it will pay for itself. Brakes are easy

The temp sensor won't cause the cranking problem. That is almost certainly a weak battery or corroded terminals combined with cold temps. Clean the terminals with water and baking soda, then smear with dielectric grease available from the autoparts store. Remove the teriminals for this for thorough cleaning at the contact surface. In some cars place the ignition in the "on" position prior to reconnecting the battery terminals. Not sure about yours, either way you wont hurt anything. rd

If it were me... start with a new temp sending unit and thermostat. Both are cheap and will enable you to eliminate the cheap fixes first. Both can be done in your driveway fairly quickly. If you are unsure of the procedures order a "Haynes Manual". rd

I recently replaced both cooler lines due to age and cracking around the hose clamps. Subaru hoses were almost $50. Instead I went to AutoZone and bought 6ft of oil cooler hose and a handful of hose clamps. I cut new hoses using the old ones as guides. I have found that the stock hose clamps are a pain to work with and just used generic screw type metal band hose clamps. Works good. Total cost $9. rd

Call it a bad habit but I routinely leave the engine running. To me it's easier on the starter. Never had any issues so far. I typically touch the pump and the car with my hands at the same time prior to fueling to bleed static electricity if present. Whatever...still a bad habit. rd

I would ask why the Timing belt was replaced early - 105K is the recommended figure. Ther is no rear transaxle. The seller is uninformed about the car and you may use that to your advantage. Ask who his mechanic is and if he tells you - call him and see what really occurred. I have a 97 Limited. Good rig. 110k miles no probs knock on wood. And yes the headgasket thing is curable, not a reoccuring thing. There was simply some bad gaskets out there. If you visit the car look for signs of gasket failure (do a search of this forum) and torque bind if its an automatic. check ebay for prices. rd

Code?????

Furthermore...wait until it's a really hot day and turn hers on and watch her fidget!!!

Examine the timing belt dust cover. You should be able to see a circular impression for each cam. At least on my 97 I can. If that doesn't work, pop the corner of the dust cover and have a looksee with a small flashlight. Then try giving your VIN # to a dealer and pretend you are ordering a T-belt - they'll tell you. rd

Inspect motor mounts. rd

The alignment shop will do the alignment and inspect the suspension. Block heater can be done in the driveway if you desire. The loud noise is likely a worn drive belt. If you want a once over you may get more than you ask for. It's like pulling up and saying "I don't know if my car needs maintenance, can you help?" Just be ready for a lot of Bull---t!! My suggestion - go through the owners manual and do ALL of the specified maint. items at the specified intervals. This covers just about everything there is. Stay away from the stealership. Ask around for a reputable shop or DIY and learn as you go. rd

Definitely. Just trying to see where I can get a transmission for it and do the labor myself. Any ideas...

Hey guys, 94 legacy with 250k. good price but lady says the Manual tranny is making growling noises and will not stay in 4th gear. Are these trannys straightforward to work on, and if not how much for a replacement from like a salvage yard? Also it's awd so this means it has a viscous coupling correct?? Thanks guys. Ryan

I did my first t-belt this summer also on my 97 obw. I bought subaru parts(t-belt and water pump). The subaru belt has paint marks on it to compliment the tooth count which you MUST do if it's an interference motor. rd

All advice here is good stuff. These guys know their stuff. But just to diversify the responses I'll tell you that I just simply drain the petcock and refill through the rad-cap while engine is running. Burping through the bleed valve on top right of radiator is a must. rd 97 obw

I reccommend 10w-30 Mobil 1 synthetic. Generally flows better in very cold temps. Also leave it in there for summer too as the molecules are all the same size within the oil and you get better flow at temp as well. You may want to get an electric block heater too if you plan on keeping this car. It keeps the coolant warm overnite and in the morning your heater will work right away among other things. They are pretty easy to install. rd 97 obw

Hey nip I'd throw a tarp or car cover on it to keep moisture from collecting in all the inopportune places. Also if you're not gonna drive it pull the battery and store it indoors if you have a suitable cardboard box and closet. I don't think the block heat is useful unless you're gonna start it. Just some random thoughts. rd

I would test drive them all if you have the time. Also don't rule out the Forrester. My Father has an 04 model and it handles sprightlier than my heavier Outback. As for the AWD, any of the systems should be more than adequate unless your mother goes out of her way to go wheelin'. If I were in the market today it would be a Legacy/Outback or Forrester, or Outback Sport, hard choice. All are super reliable as is any car these days if it's maintained and not abused. I would not rule out the non turbo 2.5 either. It's less complex and has ample power for most applications. These cars can tow light to moderate loads well, but are not F-250s, nor do they try to be. ps - Subaru doesn't make a "decent" AWD system. You only get the awesome variety. rd

I think AutoZone has generic remotes for cheap. I for one think synthetic is the only way to go. Do some research and decide for yourself. rd

If it is a cooler line, don't buy the part from a dealer!!! It's $30 there. Go to Auto Zone and buy 6 ft. of oil cooler hose for 90 cents a foot. Then cut to length using the old hoses for guidance. Replace both lines. Buy a handful of hose clamps while at Auto Zone and replace them. Trying to reuse the old Suby OEM clamps is a real headache. Finally lube the hose ends with a few drops of ATF so they slip on easy. rd

Well in that case I'd do a tranny FLUSH first, especially if its not been done in a long time. With those miles you really have nothing to lose.rd ps - I assume the engine is healthy. An ailing engine can manifest itsself through the transmission.