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Dickensheets

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Everything posted by Dickensheets

  1. Well I just pulled my engine last week. 97 OBW and I'm no expert. But I would say engine first tranny second.
  2. Great big "channelocks" are way way cheaper. They want like $200 for each ST.
  3. Ok so the engine is on a stand, 2.5 dohc with a blown head gasket at 130,000 miles. I'm ready to pull the heads. The front of the cam where it goes out thru the front of the head has a cap of sorts and it looks like they used RTV to seal it. This is also the piece that holds the cam seal in place. Is this really RTV like I think it is? So far I've resealed the seperatror plate, oil pump/new o-ring/ backing screws, and resealed the oil pan, and replaced crank seal. Rear main seal looks clean so I don't mess. Cam seals look clean but I will replace since they come out now anyway. Water pump and t-belt and tensioner are OEM new also. Ryan
  4. Good idea. BTW does the starter have to come off all the way or just the "top" bolt?
  5. 97 OBW, AT I think there are 4 bolts and someone here has mentioned that one of them is hard to get to and a flexible extension is needed. Before I go to sears, how long of a flex ext is long enough? I'm imagining the kind of ext that is about 6" long and is made from course wire rope. Or are we talking about a "wobble", or jointed extension? Ryan
  6. ok so when i pull the head off, have that side facing up. The cams are held in place by the caps to the head correct? but the lifters would fall out if I turned the motor facing down? as long as I keep it stable gravity will hold the lifters in place. is that right.
  7. Both gaskets on inside of what? I plan on resealing the pan because it's nasty but where are the seals you speak of. Thanks
  8. Well I already disconnected the AC and PS pumps. I know I didn't have to but I want to keep them bolted up and yank them with the motor. Just seems easier in my pea sized noob brain. BTW i haven't read about the flex plate bolts yet. How many and how to access them? Is this where a flex socket extension is handy? Thanks for the info.
  9. Thanks dave, yeah I did the belt and water pump 20k miles ago so those should be ok. Thanks for the list of items. I'm just about ready to yank the motor, need to read up on the technique on that. I have an ALLDATA subscription to assist. I'm pretty sure i'll be back with more questions as I proceed. This is my first motor pull. I'm kind of anxious/excited.
  10. The baffle plate is the rear seal? Reseal with ultra grey? Is this the part some say can be plastic or metal? Thanks Dave.
  11. 97 OBW 130,000 miles, 2.5 DOHC So far I think I need: head gaskets intake manifold gasket cam/crank seals What about the rear main seal/seperator thingy? What did I forget?
  12. Well I agree with getting it fixed, I just have to make the time. I put a new radcap on it just for kicks but I think I can smell exhaust in the overflow tank. I drove it with the AC on in traffic and it did not overheat so I think the leak is still small. Best place for a new gasket set?? 1stsubaruparts.com?
  13. Is that the conditioner stuff? And yeah borrowed time. It hasn't overheated yet but i'm gonna be watching like a hawk.
  14. 97 OBW 130,000 miles. I already know what this means but somebody tell me it isn't so. I want to do the job myself but am moving to Fort Collins Colorado in six weeks and things are hectic around the house. I don't have the time right now. How long can I baby this thing - will it make it six weeks then trailer it to Colorado?
  15. OK FALSE ALARM. Found a broken wire. My universe is right side up again. Everyone can go back to what they were doing. :-p
  16. 97 OBW 130,000 miles. Pass side window is stuck down. I pulled the inner door panel and it looks like the regulator is a pain to get out. The motor however is fairly accessible with a super long screwdriver. Has anyone ever sourced a motor only (no regulator) and what are the chances this will fix my window? Feedback appreciated. Ryan
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