keltikrewser

thanks for all the coments. i'm hoping the NACA ducts in both back windows will provide enough air that i don't have to use a roof scoop, but that is one of my backup plans. sorry i haven't gotten the side shots up yet i tried to upload them today and it wouldn't let me, i might try taking some smaller shots and getting them up this week. im pulling the motor out of my XT-6 this week while im off work, is there any thing else that i will need to make it run in my bug, any relays, electical, sensors, or vacume stuff out of the engine bay? im planning on pulling the whole engine harness/ecu, just want to make sure i don't miss anything. thanks again ryan

my SupaRu is my '73 Super Beetle that will hopefully house a full STI drive train, or at least a healthy 2.5 and AWD. my original plan was to make my '66 bug awd, but when i stummbled apon the '73 Super bug and did some measurements, making the subaru engine and trans work will be much easier than in the standard bug. the super's front end is about 4" longer than the standard and that is where i was running into problems. i expect that it will be several years before i am able to really dig into it, unless i win the lottery plus if you turn the "b" in subaru upside down, then it spells suparu sorry im easily amused til later ryan edit: i'll try and get those side shots uploaded in the next couple of days.

yes that is a mud tire 33x12.5 to be exact, i'll try to get some side shots later this week. i'm plannind on switching to lexan with NACA ducts in them. i just got the bug up to my new house, its been sitting like this since i finished school 6 yrs ago, god that makes me feel old i'm hoping that the ducts will be sufficient, they are 4" dia. tube,there are alot of cars on the road with smaller air intakes than that, unfortunatly they got to play in wind tunnels, i don't. when i tested it out at school we got almost as much air coming through the radiator as past the outside of the car, no data or mesurements, just by feel. i haven't decided if im going to use one larger fan or two smaller ones, not sure what will move more air. the radiator i'm using is out of an '83 T-bird, along with the engine thats bolted on back right now. i'm planning on getting an aluminum radiator in the future. as far as the noise goes im hoping that some dynamat, padding and carpet will take care of it, the air box itself seals off the engine bay from the passanger compartment, so it shouldn't be too much different than the package try, a chunck of sheet metal between you and the engine....i hope. any way thanks for the coments, i'll try and get some more pics up this week. later ryan

seems like every one is going with front mount rads. so i thought id post some pics of my rear mount setup and see what you guys think. i have not run the engine with this set up, but when i built it we tested it with an air gun blowing near the front of the car and got significant air flow on the back side of the rad, above the engine. my plan is to use a fan on the engine side to pull the air through the ducts/radiator. i don't have the tubing in right now that connects the window ducts to the shroud, but you can see where it goes from the window to the rad shroud. comments welcome/encouraged!! enjoy. rad. shroud in package tray area rad shroud/inside of window duct. i plan on swithing to lexan windows in the future due to the LARGE blind spots the block outs create. radiator with shroud removed. the engine side of the radiator, this is where the fan will go to pull the air through the windows/rad. front view of window duct. outside view of window. rear view of duct.

sounds like a cool project to me! i actually thought about doing that with mine before i sold it. what body style do you have? i had a '64 'vert and a '65 coupe, best of both imo. as far as the engine rotation goes i beleive that you can flip the ring gear in the trans axel to take care of that, i have heard of peolpe doing that for trikes and sandrails. most of the V-8 mid engine conversions i have seen used Olds Toronado trans axels instead of the corvairs, nothing like a little 'vair with a blown 455 sitin' in the back seat:clap: as far as power goes most of the old 'vairs had 110 hp, some of them had turbos that made between 140-180hp stock even more built up, the stage 4 Yenko had 240hp, thats right the first yenko wasn't a camaro. http://www.corvaircorsa.com/yenko01.html what does the 3.3 have 230hp? plus all the weight of the cooling system, at least you wouldn't have to worry about that fan belt any more edit: good article about V-8 conversion http://www.corvaircorsa.com/norris01.html ryan

since i finally decided what i'm doing with the new SB, and since my XT finally gave out on me, i decided to put the er27 into my '66 baja and build my self a nice daily until i get the SupaRu going. what am i going to need from my XT before i send it to cindy's? does anyone have a list of parts ill need for doing a full engine swap? i know i need the ecu out of the trunk, the engine harness, and the mess of copper and plastic in between, do i need anything from the dash/dash computer? anything else? i've tried searching but with dial up, a crappy old computer and limited time it's hard to find much of anything :-\ currently my '66 has no wiring at all, not sure if thats going to make my job easier or not but thats where im starting from. thank in advance ryan p.s. if anyone needs any XT-6 parts let me know.

the plan is for a full awd subaru drivetrain, the vanagon's just bolt sube motors to vw transaxles, that's what im planning on doing with my '66.

been a while. got a new game plan. over the summer while working on the new house i managed to pick up a '73 Super Beetle for $100. need less to say it needs a little work, floor, heater channels, you know the stuff that holds the car together but it was worth it to keep it from the crusher. any how to my point, while going over my newest VW to see how bad it was i did some messuring and i think i found the perfect spot to stick a suby motor. you see the super's claim to fame was all that trunk space between the new struts in the front plenty of width between th struts, and i think i'll only need to sweep the axels forward about an inch or so, it definatly looks like a better home than the front of my '66, (which i think is getting a 2.7 stuck on the back, that'll be a diff. thread) just thought i'd drop an update now that i'll be able to look at my cars again. this project is going to take a back seat for a little while until i get my '66 going. later ryan

looked at the sube last night, connector looks great, both halves were still shinny, cut into the wire and that looked good too. then i noticed that i was dripping some coolant onto the ground. i found this odd because i have never seen my car leak antifreeze, could not find where it was coming fom it was collecting onto the splash gaurd under the battery tray and dripping off of that. i know my rad. is on its last leg, the bottom 1/3 of it has no fins left, been that way since i bought it with no problems so far. so i checked the coolant which was low, it took 1 1/2 gal. to fill it up. took the car for a drive to see if the light went away. light didn't come on, but like i said before it wont come on if the engine is warm so i figured this was the problem. checked this morning for any coolant on the ground and found nothing. drove to work, no light, could that have been my problem, low coolant? if so let me know and i'll go hide under one of the rocks in my back yard where can you get a new rad. for an XT other than a Sube dealer? or would i be better off trying to have mine repaired? thanks again for all you help ryan

checked the codes when i got home tonight with the car still running, you guessed it, BLACKJACK! 21, cts. didn't have a chance to look at the wiring or inside the t-housing, i'll check that tomarrow and let you guys know. did call my local advanced auto parts, $18 instock for a new cts. im assuming you are talking about the t-housing, what is going to be my best plan of attack? just flush the cooling system or something more aggressive? thanks for all the help so far ryan

got into the trunk and hooked up the green conectors and turned the key on. all i got was 1 long pulse every couple of seconds, even length pulse and longer even length pauses. that would be a code 10 right? i read the tread in the USRM and obviously the are not codes that end in zero, what does this mean? also while i was checking the codes the fuel pump kept cycling, it would prime every few seconds, i could also hear some noise coming from what apears to be a check valve on the back of the passenger side fuel rail, im assuming that this was just releasing the fuel pressure as the pump kept priming not quite sure what is going on. i have had some spuratic drivability problems lately, which seem to be fuel related, the car will seem to randomly choke itself and stumble until i let off the gas slightly, it then sounds like it pops in the exhaust manifold and then i can continue accelerating or maintaining speed. this has been happening on and off for a couple of months, with no real consistancy. i replaced the cap,rotor,wires, and plugs but it seemed to make little if any difference. thanks again

'89 XT-6 ER27 approx. 140,000 mi friday on my way to work my check engine light came on, checked gauges, all was well. checked oil was about a qt low, not unusual, leaky oil pan gasket. added oil, drove home, light still came on. today on my way to work, again with the light, stopped at McD's to grab some lunch and continued on to work, no light? left work tonight, light here's what i've discovered light comes on when water temp goes up, not sure if that has anything to do with it but when the thermastat opens and the temp gauge goes up thats when the light comes on. the light will not come back on if the car is still warm when it gets restarted. is there any way to pull codes? tried the old on-off with the key 3 times trick, no luck. also noticed the temp was going up all at once, not gradually as the car warmed up but from nothing to normal range, im assuming as the therastat was opening. i don't recall it doing this before but i never really paid that much attention either. any ideas of what i might be looking for or how i could find it would be greatly appriciated. thanks in advance

just wanted to run a few things by you guys. even though i haven't figured out how im going to get the engine up front of my bug yet i was doing some figuring for tire sizes and i wanted to make sure i was doing my math right. i want to run larger tires in the back of the bug so my idea was to use a lower gear which would allow for a larger tire diameter to match the front tires, heres what i came up with. the xt-6 trans im using has 3.90 gears if i used 225/45/16 in front -23.9" diameter -75.084" circ. i should be able to use the following in the rear. a 4.11 ratio rear diff -any tire with a 79.127 circ. -ie. 265/35/18, 255/40/17, or 265/40/17 a 4.44 ratio rear diff -any tire with a 85.4802 circ. -ie. 255/50/17 i realize that the safest route would be to just use the same size tires and gears front and rear, but where would be the fun in that:D thanks ryan

just wanted to run a few things by you guys. even though i haven't figured out how im going to get the engine up front of my bug yet i was doing some figuring for tire sizes and i wanted to make sure i was doing my math right. i want to run larger tires in the back of the bug so my idea was to use a lower gear which would allow for a larger tire diameter to match the front tires, heres what i came up with. my xt-6 has 3.90 gears if i used 225/45/16 in front -23.9" diameter -75.084" circ. i should be able to use the following in the rear. a 4.11 ratio rear diff -any tire with a 79.127 circ. -ie. 265/35/18, 255/40/17, or 265/40/17 a 4.44 ratio rear diff -any tire with a 85.4802 circ. -ie. 255/50/17 i realize that the safest route would be to just use the same size tires and gears front and rear, but where would be the fun in that:D thanks ryan

the XT's had a ruff week. burned out a wheel bearing on monday, decided to replace the bad stuts and ball joints while i had it apart, while i was getting the bearing out of the pass. side spindle the ear that hold the ball joint in broke off . the bone yards are pretty slim an XT parts around here, unless i go to cindy's, but i'm not really in the mood to get raped. if anyone has a passanger side spindle for an XT6 please let me know i really need to get this thing back on the road. thanks for any help ryan